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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Long time lurker, first time poster - these forums have been a great help to me with eliminating issues, so hopefully someone can point me in the right direction with this...

I'm on my third R56 Mini now, and the latest one has been nothing but trouble since practically the day I bought it :(

It's a 2010 MCS with a N14 engine. I won't bore you with the past issues, but at the moment I'm having problems which have surfaced in the last month or so...

1. Car is not firing up as normal - previously it would fire within 1 or 2 cranks, but now it takes three or four to start whether it's hot or cold.

2. No power in 1st at low revs making a swift take off of any kind almost impossible.

3. Low response between 2 - 3k revs - much better over 3k revs, but there is some hesitation there.

4. Intermittenly get a fluttering on the revs at idle - but this is very intermittent, doesn't do it every journey.

The coil packs and plugs were changed last year, and I've only done a few thousand miles on them. I've changed the Vanos solenoid and had a tiny bit of improvement.

I took the car to Lohen (as they're just round the corner from me) to have it de-coked. Made some improvement, but not much. They reckon it might be the turbo, but want it in for diagnostics along with an open ended cheque for labour... I've already thrown about £1.5k at this car and I've not even had it 12 months yet!!!

I've had the turbo pipes off, and there is a tiny bit of play in the shaft, but you'd expect that at 60k miles, it's not going to be like new.

Worst thing is I can't get the EML to come on, because that would be a great help at narrowing down what the issue is.

Any suggestions as to what I could check or what the issue is?

I've got a C110+ code reader to get live data, but I don't know what the "normal" readings are for a lot of things sadly.
 

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first off need a better scanner autocom cdp plus or if have deep pockets a snap on scanner that will cover all P-codes dealer only, with 60k i would firstly take a punt at timing chain is past it life span, if it is then engine would be running out of time this causes unburnt fuel to get on to upstream 02 sensor and cat so after chai fixed it might all come back with a good long 3000 plus revs run for 100 miles maybe wurth sticking can of cataclean in it, if its had a chain then maybe cat and sensors are toast of need a good hiding more heat the better, very common for penny valve on turbo linkage to wear out, also the diverter valve that bolts to compressor side, but check timing chain first and get a better scanner,
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the feedback :)

I've already ran out of patience with the car, so investing in a more expensive scanner is a no go for me I'm afraid... this thing needs to go once it's fixed.

Chain hasn't been done, is there anyway of knowing for sure? I'd hate to spend the money on that and then it still run like a bag of nails!

The only thing of interest I have noticed is that on the scanner I've got, even though the EML isn't on, it's showing a misfire on live data on cylinders 1 & 2 (two is worse than one) - would that indicate timing out (i.e. stretched chain?)?
 

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Thanks for the feedback :)

I've already ran out of patience with the car, so investing in a more expensive scanner is a no go for me I'm afraid... this thing needs to go once it's fixed.

Chain hasn't been done, is there anyway of knowing for sure? I'd hate to spend the money on that and then it still run like a bag of nails!

The only thing of interest I have noticed is that on the scanner I've got, even though the EML isn't on, it's showing a misfire on live data on cylinders 1 & 2 (two is worse than one) - would that indicate timing out (i.e. stretched chain?)?
good luck fixing it without good data from diagnostics autocom cost £40 works on most cars up to 2015, as for the chain remove rocker cover and see how far the tensioner is out, as for misfire on 1 and 2 i would do compression test on both cylinders if both low add oil to each cylinders if reading increases then its a ring issue, if it dont could be head gasket blown between two cylinders, lek down test would how this better is air line in to one spark plug hole and if the cylinder next to it hisses that the issue, or could be could cracked valves maybe, compression test it would be my first job, also could move the spark plugs and coils from 1 ans 2 to 3 and 4 see if it all moves
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
good luck fixing it without good data from diagnostics autocom cost £40 works on most cars up to 2015, as for the chain remove rocker cover and see how far the tensioner is out, as for misfire on 1 and 2 i would do compression test on both cylinders if both low add oil to each cylinders if reading increases then its a ring issue, if it dont could be head gasket blown between two cylinders, lek down test would how this better is air line in to one spark plug hole and if the cylinder next to it hisses that the issue, or could be could cracked valves maybe, compression test it would be my first job, also could move the spark plugs and coils from 1 ans 2 to 3 and 4 see if it all moves
£40 I can live with, I'll take a look - thanks!

How do I check the tensioner? Not something I've done before... getting the rocker cover off won't be an issue though.

I've tried moving the coils, nothing changes, still reads a misfire on 1 & 2.

Thanks again for you help :)
 

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£40 I can live with, I'll take a look - thanks!

How do I check the tensioner? Not something I've done before... getting the rocker cover off won't be an issue though.

I've tried moving the coils, nothing changes, still reads a misfire on 1 & 2.

Thanks again for you help :)
below link for autocom
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bluetoot...=202691983104c87aa3c4665d44a5b209ff5a4016d362
the chain tensioner there are 3 methods can remove rocker cover and look down behind the inlet sprocket see how far the plunger is out the tensioner body, 10mm and above and it very worn,
the other way is with a preload tool link below you screw it in where tensioner goes ie the outer part all the way in then screw the inner threaded part inwards until goes tight with fingers then unscrew the out body without moving the inner part and measure it from tip to where it meets the head and use old tensioner as reference,, or can use software on live data and select vanos actual and vanos prescribed values these on a healt engine will read within 1-2 degrees of each other,,, this all on a prince engine with 60.000 miles on a factory it will be the chain needs doing anyway , you need to do a compression test its a must do job, link below for good cheap tester,
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Gunson-H...022466&hash=item3d8fad989d:g:epIAAOSwQ8xdK1uS
timing chain lock kit with preload tool, i have one like this its 1 degree out but the ecu will deal with that via the vanos, or draper do a kit for £200 which is the best
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Many thanks (again!) for the advice...

While I'm waiting for the scan tool etc. I've popped the rocker cover off and this is what I see:



The guide rail is still in place and there's nothing floating around but I've got no idea if the tensioner is gone or not!

I think I need a new rocker cover gasket though... bit of oil collecting around the edges.
 

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Many thanks (again!) for the advice...

While I'm waiting for the scan tool etc. I've popped the rocker cover off and this is what I see:



The guide rail is still in place and there's nothing floating around but I've got no idea if the tensioner is gone or not!

I think I need a new rocker cover gasket though... bit of oil collecting around the edges.
going by the colour of the valve guides i would say thats a factory chain and by colour of the torx bolts on camshafts if north of 60k its well on its way of not already there to be honest, the trouble and o have done before until i learnt the hard way trying to diagnose a fault when there is a components that's still sort of works but is so far off what it should be is a nightmare just keep going around in circles,, the chain tension is at the rear of the engine the pic you have done only shows the downwards of the chain cant tell by that its how far the plunger has come out, i use a camera on a cable link below for cheap option as a £300 trade one is expensive,
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Waterpro...190864&hash=item4d636908cc:g:YRoAAOSwc-tY3LiL
if you turn engine over until can see the writing on the camshafts this on both shoul be facing upwards and at the same amount if that makes sense, if one is at top and the other looks to be off is another good sign of not being right,
 

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Long time lurker, first time poster - these forums have been a great help to me with eliminating issues, so hopefully someone can point me in the right direction with this...

I'm on my third R56 Mini now, and the latest one has been nothing but trouble since practically the day I bought it :(

It's a 2010 MCS with a N14 engine. I won't bore you with the past issues, but at the moment I'm having problems which have surfaced in the last month or so...

1. Car is not firing up as normal - previously it would fire within 1 or 2 cranks, but now it takes three or four to start whether it's hot or cold.

2. No power in 1st at low revs making a swift take off of any kind almost impossible.

3. Low response between 2 - 3k revs - much better over 3k revs, but there is some hesitation there.

4. Intermittenly get a fluttering on the revs at idle - but this is very intermittent, doesn't do it every journey.

The coil packs and plugs were changed last year, and I've only done a few thousand miles on them. I've changed the Vanos solenoid and had a tiny bit of improvement.

I took the car to Lohen (as they're just round the corner from me) to have it de-coked. Made some improvement, but not much. They reckon it might be the turbo, but want it in for diagnostics along with an open ended cheque for labour... I've already thrown about £1.5k at this car and I've not even had it 12 months yet!!!

I've had the turbo pipes off, and there is a tiny bit of play in the shaft, but you'd expect that at 60k miles, it's not going to be like new.

Worst thing is I can't get the EML to come on, because that would be a great help at narrowing down what the issue is.

Any suggestions as to what I could check or what the issue is?

I've got a C110+ code reader to get live data, but I don't know what the "normal" readings are for a lot of things sadly.
 
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