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Fly it like you stole it!
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, I know this has been asked plenty of times before, but after doing a search I have not seen a single answer in the forums. I am installing some lowering springs on my "05" MCS the day after tomorrow and I would love to get a step by step instruction process by someone who has done this before and knows what they are doing. Does anyone know where I can find an online site or link that shows someone installing lowering springs? I have the Bentley Manual, but I think it is more in depth than I need to go. Please help, quick, I only have a day and a half until I am going to the shop to do it, then it will be learn as you go, which will take longer. I have some mechanical experience, but have never lowered a car before.
Thanks so much in advanced.

Ciao, Daron
 

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Deserter Zed
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Choprpilot76 said:
Ok, I know this has been asked plenty of times before, but after doing a search I have not seen a single answer in the forums. I am installing some lowering springs on my "05" MCS the day after tomorrow and I would love to get a step by step instruction process by someone who has done this before and knows what they are doing. Does anyone know where I can find an online site or link that shows someone installing lowering springs? I have the Bentley Manual, but I think it is more in depth than I need to go. Please help, quick, I only have a day and a half until I am going to the shop to do it, then it will be learn as you go, which will take longer. I have some mechanical experience, but have never lowered a car before.
Thanks so much in advanced.

Ciao, Daron
its pretty simple, especially if your on ramps. the fronts all your do its disconnect the rupper bungs for the brake lines, undo the anti roll bar an pul it out of the strut. undo the large bottom bolt that holds the hub to the damper, pull the hub down untill the damper is out of it, undo the 3 top bolts under the bonnet an remove the whole assembly. put spring compressors on, undo the top mount, dissassemble an remove the old spring, then juse wak on a nu spring an put it all bak together.

on the rears take the brake lines offf as before, undoo the long bottom bolt (oftem covered with a rubber flap) then the two top bolts located the the top of the arch, take the shock out, swap the springs an reassemble.

EASY!! lol

first car i did took 3 hours coz i didnt have a clue! now done about 10 minis and take about an hour if no problems are incurred.

Ben
 

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Choprpilot76 said:
Ok, I know this has been asked plenty of times before, but after doing a search I have not seen a single answer in the forums. I am installing some lowering springs on my "05" MCS the day after tomorrow and I would love to get a step by step instruction process by someone who has done this before and knows what they are doing. Does anyone know where I can find an online site or link that shows someone installing lowering springs? I have the Bentley Manual, but I think it is more in depth than I need to go. Please help, quick, I only have a day and a half until I am going to the shop to do it, then it will be learn as you go, which will take longer. I have some mechanical experience, but have never lowered a car before.
Thanks so much in advanced.

Ciao, Daron
Daron, try this link from WebbMotorsport

http://www.webbmotorsports.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=13

Good luck with it :)
 

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Yes, do visit Randys site for some good info.
A few things.
Rent a spring compressor. Not the one for struts, but the one that comes with three separate simple compressors. I believe it's for standard springs. The reason for this is that the driver side strut is a chore to remove as the hub does not drop low enough to remove the strut. I used one or two of these standard compressors to compress the spring in order to remove the strut.
This is the hardest, or only the really hard, part of the change over. It's not a real hard job to do, but for this one driver side strut.
By the way, while your doing this job, consider a good rear sway bar replacement as you are doing most of the work already by jacking, wheel removal and shock removal. It's a great upgrade to consider.

:blblack:
 

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Sullivan Racing
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onasled said:
Yes, do visit Randys site for some good info.
A few things.
Rent a spring compressor. Not the one for struts, but the one that comes with three separate simple compressors. I believe it's for standard springs. The reason for this is that the driver side strut is a chore to remove as the hub does not drop low enough to remove the strut. I used one or two of these standard compressors to compress the spring in order to remove the strut.
This is the hardest, or only the really hard, part of the change over. It's not a real hard job to do, but for this one driver side strut.
By the way, while your doing this job, consider a good rear sway bar replacement as you are doing most of the work already by jacking, wheel removal and shock removal. It's a great upgrade to consider.

:blblack:
I agree with all of this, and as a further tip I might add that you should be ready to get a four wheel alignment done as soon as you have finished this work, because it will be off BADLY. My alignment chart looked like Austin Powers smile after I did mine!
 

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Fly it like you stole it!
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks a lot guys, I am going to do the change out tomorrow morning. Here's the hard to believe part, I take delivery of the car from the dealer this afternoon. And, I have an appointment to get my Orciari Body kit installed first thing Monday morning. Talk about not wasting any time. I figure hey I have been waiting this long for the car, may as well wait another week and have it all done the way I want it, well some modifications any way.
Thanks again. Ciao.

Daron

I will get the rear sway bar replacement, but it will take about a week or two to get in. Should I wait to get the re-alignment done until after I get the sway bar? Won't the sway bar replacement affect the alignment again?
 

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I also have a question about alignment. I'm going to install the springs this weekend. Do I need to bring the car to alignment right after i install all of the springs? I will get the new wheels and tires next month or so do I need to realignment after I put the new wheels on? :confused:
 

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Fly it like you stole it!
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I also have a question about alignment. I'm going to install the springs this weekend. Do I need to bring the car to alignment right after i install all of the springs? I will get the new wheels and tires next month or so do I need to realignment after I put the new wheels on?
Any one feel free to correct me if I'm wrong on this, but, no you shouldn't have to get it aligned again just for a tire/wheel change. As far as getting it aligned right after you put the lowering springs on you need to do it as soon as possible, but you don't have to literally drive it straight to the mechanic to align it. You should be ok for a little bit, but the thing is, is you should notice a difference in alignment, and the longer you drive like that, the worse your tire wear will get (uneven tire wear) and problems can develop over time with your steering. So get it done as soon as possible.

Daron
 

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you should wait at least 50 miles, perhaps even 200 or 300 miles, before paying for an alignment: at least some of the springs on the market will "settle" over the initial driving. in addition, i suspect that some of the poly parts take a new "set," which also takes some miles to settle.

you really don't need a 4 wheel alignment. the lowering springs will add a little camber to the front, but won't change the front toe (at least on 2003 mcs.) the rear camber will be a lot greater, but you can live with it until the car settles.

i adjusted my rear camber, toe, and centerline alignment the day i put the springs on, then 1 week later, then 1 month later. there was noticeable change over each time span.
 

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LOL I was lookin here for some help for my friend and fellow AMOKer and then realized that this is you. See you at the shop tomorrow Daron.
 

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Sullivan Racing
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flyboy2160 said:
you should wait at least 50 miles, perhaps even 200 or 300 miles, before paying for an alignment: at least some of the springs on the market will "settle" over the initial driving. in addition, i suspect that some of the poly parts take a new "set," which also takes some miles to settle.

you really don't need a 4 wheel alignment. the lowering springs will add a little camber to the front, but won't change the front toe (at least on 2003 mcs.) the rear camber will be a lot greater, but you can live with it until the car settles.

i adjusted my rear camber, toe, and centerline alignment the day i put the springs on, then 1 week later, then 1 month later. there was noticeable change over each time span.
I think you make a very good point about the springs settling, but are you suggesting that you don't need a four wheel alignment after doing this mod, period?
 

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OK here is what I'm going to do!

I will get the springs installed this weekend and wait for the wheels to come next month..then I will do the alignment after I put the wheels on. That should give me about 500miles before I do the alignment.

One thing about camber. I think I'm going to keep whatever setup I could get from lower the spring...not fixing anything...not use the control arms....do you think it will be absolutely bad idea or just a tires wron up not evenly?

Please corect me...

thanks!
 

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dansmini said:
I think you make a very good point about the springs settling, but are you suggesting that you don't need a four wheel alignment after doing this mod, period?
yes, you don't need one if you keep the stock rear control arms. the rear camber will be a lot (over -2.5), but the rear toe is ok.

you'll have to realign the rear IF you replace the control arms and start reducing the rear camber. this will change the toe, which you have to readjust using either 2 adjustable rear control arms on each side or the "slot" and bolt that locates the trailing link.
 

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YEAH..BABY! Finally got M7 springs on!!


Black car has stock springs on...Check out the different! :wink:



Love the springs! I really feel more grip on the corners.




I think I will not get the control arms, because I love the look of the car now and my friend has control arms on and adjust to factory setting... he feel rubbing on the rear, because the car is lowered need more camber.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Well here are my springs as well. Just lowered it yesterday. I have 215/45R17, so they do rub in the back on the black plastic fender flare when you hit a medium size bump. I also through some new wheels on them as well, they're BBS RD size 17x7.
 

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Hey Daron, man that sucks about the the rubbing. Do you know what back spacing your wheels are? It was fun installing the springs. Sorry about droppin the one spring boing...boing...boing :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
No, I can't remember the offset off the top of my head. I think if I went 215/40 instead of 45 it might have helped. I'll figure something out, at least it only does it on medium bumps, and not constantly or with any shift in weght.
 

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I think that if you went to a 40 the profile would be smaller but the tire would be wider. It has a lot to do with wheel backspacing and tire manufacture. Might try to put the stock wheels back on and give it a go. I will even let you use my centerlines and try it. That way we can experiment with diff offsets. See ya later this week...run amok!
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Well I dropped it off this morning at the body shop to get the kit installed. You're right about the back spacing, the offset has a lot to do with it. But if you look at the way it rubs, I think a slightly smaller side wall would help. If I go from 45 to 40 the tread width does not change. That only means the sidewall gets smaller since the second number is the side wall height in percentage of the tread width. I also asked the body shop to trim about quarter of an inch off that lip underneath the rear fender flare. It would be totally unrecognizable. Plus, Glenn might buy those tires, since he isn't lowering his, and he is trying to get some new tires for his new rims, it might work out perfect. We'll see though, he and I are running over to the body shop later so he can help me translate some things, and he's gonna check out the tires as well.
As soon as it gets out of the shop I'll let you take it for a spin so you can determine if you want to do it to yours or not. The rub isn't that bad, and it's an easily fixable problem. The ride feels great, and I can't fell a single difference or problem with the alignment.
I will be in Germany from wednesday to sunday, see you after that.

Ciao, Daron
 

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Daron,

How much could you align when you don't have the control arms? I haven't done mine yet. I would like to know if there a trick to get the camber back to factorysetting with out the control arms.

Your car looks nice man! Love those rims!
 
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