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Discussion Starter #1
MG ZR, ZS, ZT wheels are an exact fit on any MINIs with 4 bolt hubs. They are an exact fit
PCD 4x100, 17x7, Offset/ET45, Centre Bore 56.1

Mostly they are 17" and in silver.

Reason it might be interesting is that used they are ridiculously cheap compared to used alloys advertised as being 'MINI'. There is a set in silver near me up on FaceBlab asking £30!!! OK one they cut a locking bolt off and made a mess of the bolt hole. But you can get a single for about £25 if it bothers you.

They may not be to everyones taste. They look a little like Team Dynamics Pro Race 1.2s, which are expensive and popular, but have more spokes - 15 v 12. They are very strong and relatively light, 9.6kgs each. Most OE MINI wheels are up at the 11.5kgs each. For those not into the technicality, light = good.

Some pics to show how they look. Mine are sparkly gloss black.

You don't need to use the 'big' MG centre caps. You can fit 60mm/58mm centre caps and leave the bolts exposed, as they look on many OE wheels.
 

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Sour Mash
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This has probably been asked before but my car has 16 inch wheels. With the correct (assuming lower profile) tyres can these be swapped out without any other adjustment?

Thanks for the thread btw!!
 

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This has probably been asked before but my car has 16 inch wheels. With the correct (assuming lower profile) tyres can these be swapped out without any other adjustment?

Thanks for the thread btw!!


I’m 99% sure you’d be fine to whack them straight on. Would look good.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #7
They have radius rather than tapered seats for the nuts/bolts though, don't they?
Im very much a newbie, what does this mean?
Good question. MG Rovers have nuts rather than the bolts MINIs have. Nuts or bolts, it doesn't matter which, can be radius or tapered, to match the seats in the wheel they are being used on.

The bolts on our MINIs are tapered bolts, as MINI wheels have tapered seats. Jim is saying the MG ZR, ZS, ZT alloys have radius seats. The difference is the shape/contour of the 'shoulders' of the hole the nut/bolt seats into when done up.

Attached is a pic showing the difference between tapered and radius.
 

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Sour Mash
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Thanks a lot guys. Love the information on this forum!!

So if mine don't fit properly, and wheels don't come with nuts/bolts, I just need to buy radius ones and will be OK?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks a lot guys. Love the information on this forum!!
So if mine don't fit properly, and wheels don't come with nuts/bolts, I just need to buy radius ones and will be OK?
Correct Jack. I've got a set of MINI OE S-Spokes and of MG ZRs upstairs and I'm burgered if I can see much difference in the seats for the bolts in the wheels.

If Jim is correct seems there are three ways to deal with it:
1) Get a set of radius bolts, as you say
2) Get a set of Wheel Bolt Washers to Convert Tapered to Radius Wheels, like these (ignore the fact they are air-cooled VDub specilaists):
https://www.vwheritage.com/ac6019508-wheel-bolt-washer-to-convert-tapered-to-radius-wheels-vw-spare
3) Just use your current bolts - the wheels aren't going anywhere and will be seated properly on the hub as the have the same MINI 56.1 centre bores. Flame retardent trousers are to hand>:D

To your earlier qustion, they often come with used tyres, which will not be run-flats, 205/45/17. Albeit they might be a rubbish brand and /or worn.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Thanks, I didn't know about this option. It looks like it'll need slightly longer bolts to work. I quite like the 16" MG wheels, but can I find radius bolts in M14 (R56), nope, no way.
I didn't know about them either till I read your post:big_grin: Yes might need to be a bit longer.

Jim, are those 16"s the style they everyone seems to call 'hairpins'?

Are you wanting to fit to an (your?) R56, so need M14 x 1.5? I found them OK using Google.
 

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Discussion Starter #12

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Discussion Starter #15
Not sure what they're called, but these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MG-ZR-Alloy-Wheels-205-50-16-Full-Set-Including-Tyres/173192375530?hash=item285311ecea:g:G44AAOSwrW1amtnd

Oh, the R56 MINI uses M14x1.25 so quite hard to find in radius, plus the head might be too big to fit in the wheel anyway.
Those on the eBay link you posted are the 'Hairpins'. Think they only come in 16", not 17". They are quite pretty.

There are a load of either of these on eBay, all different lengths
M14 x 1.25 Radius Bolts
https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_odkw=M14+x+1.25+Wheel+Bolts&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.XM14+x+1.25+Radius+Wheel+Bolts.TRS0&_nkw=M14+x+1.25+Radius+Wheel+Bolts&_sacat=0

M14 x 1.25 Tapered Bolts
https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_odkw=M14+x+1.25+Radius+Wheel+Bolts&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.XM14+x+1.25+Tapered+Wheel+Bolts.TRS0&_nkw=M14+x+1.25+Tapered+Wheel+Bolts&_sacat=0

With respect to the R56s using M14 x 1.25 I've taken some pics which might help. That is a 22mm socket sitting in the MG ZR bolt hole and a not very good pic with a cheap vernier of the hole that the theaded part of the bolt goes through in the wheel - it is 15mm exactly, which is bigger than the holes through the OE S-Spokes I have. So if you measure a M14 x 1.25 you should know if they will work.
 

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Cooper Kid
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MG ZR Alloys fitment

Hi all,

New to the forum but I've been following this thread for a week or so and decided to try it out for myself. I realise there haven't been any updates for a few years but hopefully I can shed some more light on the situation trying this myself and sharing the results.

I have a late 2010 R56 Cooper D with 17 inch (Infinite Stream) alloys on 205/45R17 runflats and while I love the car, the harshness of the ride is killing me!

Bought some decent MG ZR Hairpin alloys on ebay with 205/50R16 tyres and they share the same PCD - 4x100, offset - 45mm and centre bore - 56.1mm as the genuine MINI equivalent.

They do indeed just go straight on if people are wondering, using the existing M14x1.25 Mini wheel bolts, there's a very similar thread length left over poking through the bolt hole (perhaps slightly more than on the original wheels) though as people have mentioned here and elsewhere, the Mini wheel bolts are tapered at 60 degress while the MG ZR alloys have a 12mm radius seat.

So the job is possible and I have heard of others who have just stuck them straight on but I have ordered some radius to taper bolt adaptors and extended bolts to do the job properly.

I'd be happy to share any more info on this. I will post an update when I have successfully fitted the MG alloys with the new bolts and adaptors! ::smile::


Pics - MG ZR Hairpin Alloys 16"
 

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Cooper Kid
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MG ZR Alloys fitment - Update 1.0

Hi again,

So I found myself in a position to fit the MG alloys yesterday and even though I am still waiting on the extended bolts and radius/taper adaptors, I thought I would trial the wheels and work out some kinks before they stay on permanently when the parts arrive later this week.

The first task was to remove the MINI 17" alloys. A few tips below that worked for me but efficienados feel free to skip these:

-Jack up the car using the pre-determined jack points under the sills but keep an eye on these as you raise and lower as the rubber mounts tend to slip out of place if you're not on completely level ground. Recommend putting an axle stand under solid frame points as well, don't just leave the car raised on the jack unless you absolutely have to.

-If you're wheel hasn't been removed for a while, you might find a breaker bar is needed to remove the bolts. Untighten them a little before you raise the car up.

-After you remove the wheel bolts, the wheel may still not come away from the hub. Try gently tapping either side of the tyre with a rubber mallet to create a pivot motion to gently free the wheel from the hub. Make sure to have a support under the wheel or better a spare pair of hands ready to grab the wheel so it doesn't fall onto your brake disc.

-Rotate the hub so that the bolt holes are arranged like a cross pattern. (two holes aligned vertically along the centre and the other two horizontal). Place the new wheel on, locating the centre bore on the central hub lip and line up the holes to those on the hub. Best to get a bolt threaded into the top hole first slightly and then the wheel won't fall out of place and swing.

-Get all 4 bolts starting to thread and then proceed to tighten them up evenly one at a time, opposite bolts at a time to ensure a proper seating on the hub.

-Once the bolts are all hand tight and the wheel is sitting flush against the hub, you can go ahead and lower the car to the ground. Get the breaker bar out again and further tighten the wheel up when the car is on the ground.


As I said in the previous post, the wheel will just go straight on using the existing Mini bolts, the amount of thread left to screw into the hub is about 1mm greater with the MG alloys so perhaps a better connection here than before. The downside is the bolts won't sit properly in the alloys as they have a radius seat and the bolts are conical. I've had mine on for a day or two now though to try out the wheels and they haven't gone anywhere but I will be fitting the new bolts soon so I recommend you go ahead and do the same.

In terms of improvement to overall ride quality, the main reason I made the conversion in the first place, the main differences come as you might expect over bumps, potholes and uneven road surface. The skittishness has definitely reduced and the car feels a little more squishy in the bends but not enough to compromise the sharp handling and feel through the steering wheel. You can at least relax a little knowing that you're not going to crash into every pothole as harshly as before. While it's enough to make a noteable difference to the composure of the car over rougher surfaces, try out a few different routes to the usual commute as the placebo effect will probably enhance your perception of reality. What may also be altered is your perception of height above the road. The overall PCD is less on the MG ZR wheels (about 5-10mm depending on how high you run your tyre pressures, so you will be slightly closer to the ground and your speedo may be a few percent out here or there but nothing life changing. Just watch the front mudguards over speedbumps and you should be fine.

So far the results are positive. The ride is a little more comfortable while the general fun feel of the car largely remains the same. Couple this with a suspension upgrade and you could be onto even further levels of comfort. Now I just need to get a spare wheel fitted under the boot somewhere or I could be in big trouble...

I'll post an update when I give this a go!

Cheers guys


Pics - Cooper with new 16" Hairpins
 

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Cooper Kid
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Hi guys,

So as promised I have another update regarding the spare wheel. Putting my design skills to use I came up with a simple spindle and retainer and employed the services of a local fabricator fellow who was able to knock something up for me. I bought an MG ZR space saver (same PCD and offset) and went ahead with the installation. There are basically three parts to this system.

-The first is the retainer itself which has 4 pins that locate into the bolt holes on the spare to stop it from moving around too much and helps wit the unscrewing process as you can simply turn the wheel anti-clockwise and it will lower to the ground. Shown here:

Wheel_Retainer_Image.jpg


-The second is an M10 threaded spindle which screws into the retaining plate and allows you to tighten and loosen the plate to attach it or remove it.

-The third is a locating plate which sits in the boot sump and makes sure the wheel tightens up in the right place, avoiding the struts and suspension components under the body. This plate has a number of screws in which sit on three little prongs in the boot sump and stop it from moving around. Shown here:

Top_Plate_Image.jpg


I used a nylock bolt at the very top of the spindle and applied some threadlock to this to stop it from moving and a simple washer underneath to provide a smooth surface for rotation contact on the top surface of the locating plate. Placing the wheel onto the retainer, I screwed the retainer up onto the spindle and tightened the bolt at the top holding the wheel in place. I then sawed off the excess spindle length, filed the burred edge and applied some grease to the thread to aid removal. Here is the assembly below:

Assembly_Diagram.jpg


And here is the assembly shown on the car.

From inside the boot:

275471


And from underneath the boot:

275472


The MG space saver just tucks in nicely next to the exhaust heat shield.

After the installation I replaced the emergency kit and added some bits to cater for eventual removal. These include a socket ratchet and 17mm socket bit, gloves, rags and spare wheel bolt should the worst should happen. (Jack, wheel brace, locking nut key and tow bar fixing already present in the kit.)

So far this setup has held the wheel in place really well, I just hope it's easy enough to take off when it comes the changing to the spare (should this happen) but now I'm covered if it does. The only downside from me using an MG spare wheel is that the original underbody tray won't go back on but this is not a big issue and makes changing to the spare that little bit easier. I might knock up a cover plate that closes off the exposed wheel face but I have't done as yet. A bonus is that the car felt more planted at the rear in the wet on my commute, no doubt the additional weight is pressing the tyres into the tarmac a little more!

Hopefully this will help someone out who's going through the same thing. But to answer the original thread question: yes, you can fit MG ZR alloys to your MINI (R56) and you can also fit a spare wheel underneath and this is a pretty easy way to do it!

Any questions or queries, feel free to ask.

Cheers guys

Wheel_Retainer_Image.jpg Top_Plate_Image.jpg Assembly_Diagram.jpg file1-7.jpeg file2-5.jpeg
 
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