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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
my next one arrived today nice car slate grey with graphite trim where would be chrome, and nice wheels , really good spec car , history is been to a mechanic who in his own words cant compete with me and my what I do etc, so this the direction on this one is just want it right, hmmm funny I know no other way to do them lol , so its having all the normal stuff , plus water pump and and link pipe maybe thermo housing if the one fitted by someone else is a cheap ebay same as timing chain kit, had a dont know where from kit fitted, as i on all the refresh cars replace with what I know to be best for money and have been using same ones now for 10 years , this car has been through a number of 02 sensors and cats recently as eating a lot of engine oil also throttle feels slow as well so suspect it out of time and 02 sensors are lazy from packed with crud, so new cat and 02 sensors will liven it back up and get better mpg, best mpg on these cars is at 50mph and using super unleaded fuel, so tomorrow i've got a black one to finish off as its got vac pump dragging the exhaust cam and was so broken when plugged the vac pipe in the engine would stall , so new vac pump ordered and also new oil control solenoids as well, i only use pierburg , there are different part number between the n12b14 and n12b16 engines , so i always order with reg numbers to be sure, also they come with a 12 months warranty and stored on reg number , also the vac pumps are same pierburg , oil pump I only fit pierburg or genuine , after this one i got a cooper s clubman to do,
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
its finally in the door done 20 minutes on it pulled rocker off and have a poke around, will get in to it tomorrow afternoon or evening,
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
got a afternoon on this one today got head off , head stripped all valves out ready for doing stem seals and clean up and relap valve s in to seats a job a proper hate 16 valves , i do use a couple of special tools for this, one is a hold drill chuck on a cable i cut down so can hold the back of lave stem and oil up the guide then can spin the valve at different speeds when get a bad valve pits ,,, i then have a drill mounted valve lap tool this works the valve back and forwards to seat it, i use the drill and spin each valve to clean them, i have a heavy duty wire brush i hold in vice and spin the valve in to until its complete clean and finish off with scotchbrite soaked in seafoam ,, years a go i used a media blaster to do such jobs only issues i got was on a couple the media got in to a oil way and caused some big issues so now i clean by hand and only with wet stuff and by hand ,, i forgot my phone today so no pics will load some up tomorrow evening when i finally get home ,
 

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Never did a valve job. Had this done at an automotive machine shop.

A buddy of my owned a Wisconsin engine dealership. These were 4-cycle air cooled engines intended for agriculture, oil field, construction, etc. use. They ranged from 1 cylinder to V4s. From 12hp to around 60hp. He sold new ones. But he also rebuilt used one. He made more money rebuilding used engines vs. selling new engines. But the cost to rebuild was less than buying a new engines so customers flocked to his store to get their engines rebuilt.

For the valve job he used a valve seat stone and a valve grinder. The angle of the stone and the angle the valve head had with regards to the valve grinder stone ensured the valve head made contact at the outer portion of the valve seat. The difference in the angles was not large. Less than 1 degree. But contact of the outer edge of the valve head was desired to prevent the outer diameter of the valve head's sealing surface from being exposed to the hot combustion gases.

As the valves heated up the tendency was for the valve heads to give a bit and this then had the valve head making full contact with the valve seat for maximum heat transfer.

He said lapping makes for good contact when things are cold but if the head gets softer from the heat it can have the edge of the valve not making full contact with the seat. If the valve doesn't make full contact it will run hot and this can result in a burned valve.

Now I should stress the Wisconsin engines were air-cooled and thus ran hotter than a water cooled engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
head off pistons all out cleaned and new rings added bores honed , all valves out and cleaned and seats relapped new stem seals fitted , found vvt motor the teeth have gone sharp so new one ordered,, also found oil filter housing non return valve not sealing so new one ordered from bmw as there are a updated designed one that has better valve in t ,, ie known weakness,
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head cleaned and valves out,
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above the valves before cleaning and seats lapped in , white is oil burning residue
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valves after all cleaned,
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above teeth on vvt motor notice the teeth have gone narrow in the middle ie where they wear the most,

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before cleaning piston notice the oil ring is stuck in has no pressure to bores hence why they drink oil ,
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piston cleaned with new piston rings,, this is first one of these i'm am using new type rings made by FAI ,
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all 4 ready to back in

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above is part number for FAI piston rings we believe the top ring is mad of better material should tak head better ,
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above pic of middle ring notice the rounded side to the edge this must face downwards,
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
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above pic of ring set and these are like the sm rs1600 rings sets with 3 piece oil solid rings,

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two pistons in
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all 4 in notice the oil on the broes i lag them is oil and rotate engine by hand and look for any wrong looking marks on the bore walls, ie in case ring broken when put pistons in,

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just started doing the valves springs and stem seals then thou
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ght its friday i'm off home
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
had another half day on this one today finally got the parts been waiting for, ie new vvt motor, new oil filter housing ie genuine one new plastic link pipe, and oil pump arrived when i got home so full steam ahead tomorrow, aim is all done for friday, pics below show head all back together and put back on block and timing chain on loose until tomorrow as when i fit a new oil seal on crank pulley end i use some permeant sealant to help bond it to the metal part and this needs over night and tomorrow put heater on it as well make sure should never seep then, i also fitted new retang rings to camshafts for vanos system as per pics,, guy collected the 1.4 mini one i done before this one at 11,20 am so one more out my way ,
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camshaft retang rings soaking in engine oil before i fit them to camshafts, little tip with these do not stretch them and gentle easy them on while pushing them in to the groove,
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camshaft grooves for vanos retang rings
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the above caps are for the vanos retang rings,
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above pics can see i use welseal on the posts for inlet camshaft and where vanos oil rings sit as well very light amount
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above pic is how i do the upright followers and spring fingers ie i leave them resting on camshaft and then can push them on to the slots at the rear,
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above head ready for fitting, cleaned with brake cleaner before same as block, MUST BE OIL FREE
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
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all 4 pistons at locking point and locked, i have done hundreds of these engines and finally today this one i put lock pin in without moving the crank lol,
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above is part number from bmw for plastic link pipe ie brand new one, i buy 5 of these every time i go in and a number of other stuff as these are a must replace job after 8 years old, when the end cracks its a engine killer , also try'd after market ones and not had much luck with them so genuine not worth the risk, i add rubber grease to the end to help push in to the water pump,,DO NOT TRY IT DRY CHANCES ARE WILL HURT THE SEAL, IF LEAKS ITS A ENGINE KILLER,
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head sat on car bolts done down 30nm plus 90 degrees plus 90 degrees ,, YOU MUST OIL THE HEAD BOLTS.

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above genuine bmw oil filter housing with the revised non return valve ie was a issue with them,
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new timing chain and vanos sprockets soaking in engine oil for a couple of hours, failure to do this can make them stick on first start up and some can be hurt from it, i also crank engine 5 long times no plugs in get oil up there as well before going for a start,

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full timing chain kit I use , this comes with all guides and oil pump chain and all sprockets and stretch bolts etc,, this car had a timing chain done by a garage not long ago I found the reused the crank stretch bolt , I fit what I fit as been using them for years and never have any issues with them, also when i get cars with vanos related codes i know by fitting this kit it will be something outside the engine causing the issues going forward, the way I do them is I do them the same way every time with same parts , this seems to keep things on level of success everytime so far,
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timing chain on but not set cams locked crank locked i use draper pro timing chain lock tool , below link
 

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Is the purpose of the Wellseal to seal the intake vanos sprocket to the end of the camshaft? I don't understand the purpose of the sealant. Is it to seal the cam o-ring bearing cap to the head to prevent oil pressure loss? Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Is the purpose of the Wellseal to seal the intake vanos sprocket to the end of the camshaft? I don't understand the purpose of the sealant. Is it to seal the cam o-ring bearing cap to the head to prevent oil pressure loss? Thanks
NO the wellseal does not go on the end of camshaft or between the surfaces of vanos sprocket to camshaft that is a metal to meatal fit, it goes where oil ways are between the posts and end caps to the head surface , thought that was clear ,,,, ie I wrote
above pics can see i use welseal on the posts for inlet camshaft and where vanos oil rings sit as well very light amount
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
had it running today for a brief few minutes runs stable from the off good start , the new jockey wheel has wrong plug on it and needs a jumper cable so returned and waiting for correct one tomorrow then can be run up over a few hours shake down, my next one turns up next week cooper s clubman with all the normal smoke screen behind it lol,
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
this one is done had running today for 3 hours of shake down and ring bedding, etc zero fault codes all adaptions sit where they should be after this i drained oil put in fresh , then its going home after 300 miles to 500 will have another oil and filter change this removes any metal debris from where rings bed to the bores , I bed rings after car has sat for hour to running temps then it gets revs to 2500 revs for 20 minutes ill repeat this a couple of times over the next hour , then while its hot i drop the oil, i also add some clean oil to the filler with sump bung out this helps to push any particles caught in the 15mm or oil that is always left on sump from recessed sump bung , this car is first one on the FAI ring sets and seems all good,
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
this went home today owner over moon with it must admit it runs sweet now no smell of smoke even when undo the oil filler when running there is no crankcase pressure to speak of ,,, on to next one r55 cooper s with same old issues ,
 

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@mike1967 I have to admit that these threads are far above my level of understanding but I do find them fascinating none the less!

You are certainly keeping a lot of these alive and on the road, nice one!

Is it just the 2nd gen you work on? Or the R53's too
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
@mike1967 I have to admit that these threads are far above my level of understanding but I do find them fascinating none the less!

You are certainly keeping a lot of these alive and on the road, nice one!

Is it just the 2nd gen you work on? Or the R53's too
yes works on them all to be honest, only the r53 dont use bmw own crappy plastic oil rings so dont tend to smoke because of these rings , r53 has better rings from factory , also timing chain a bit better ,, but still suffer valve stem seals
 
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