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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi so was driving up a hairpin bend in low gears and as I accelerated at the top of the bend to pull away on the straight a pop noise happened and lots and I mean lots of white smoke came out exhaust car was still driving at this point but was very sluggish then smoke cleared and then it just slowed right down and now it won鈥檛 start 馃槥 it鈥檚 as if I have a flat battery it鈥檚 trying to turn but very very slow
RAC recovery came and said my engine has blown up .. he wasn鈥檛 much help really
Any advice how to check the engine or turbo or anything as I love this mini to bits and really don鈥檛 want to give up on it 馃槥
 

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will be the turbo would suspect common around 80-120k when the dpf filter in exhaust causes back pressure and head and takes out the seals, so if find turbo failed must fit a turbo most also fit dpf filter at same time,,
if when it bellowed smoke it rev'd like hell and would not switch off untill all the oil had been used to run the engine ie when turbo fails it dumps red out think engine oil in to the inlet,, this is called diesel runaway google it if yours done this then bin the engine to be honest they dont tend to come back right after as wear the internals with no oil for a while,,, also if car been running round for a long time with dpf filter partially blocked as they do this causes diesel to bypass piston rings and load the sump with diesel this also damages the turbo seals and well as the whole engine ,,, this all aid its possible it been caught in time and like said new dpf and cat and turbo maybe be all of it, but expensive genuine parts 2k bill ish refurb turbo a lot cheaper and either a dpf delete mot mot failure grey area visual check only cant tell if been pulled out if done right, cat2u,com do after market filter around 拢360 for eec spec, compared to nearly a grand from bmw ,,, little tip you can off set some of the cost by having the old cat and dpf filter back and tasking to a scrap yard bigger one the better prob get around 拢150-350 back on old ones as long as are the genuine one as have metals in them worth a bit,
 
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I wonder if it wasn't still running but just rolling under it's own momentum hence smoke appeared to clear?

N47 engine so timing chain issue or quite likely the oil scenario mentioned above, what you think is oil can easily be a mix of oil and diesel, the diesel in it will kill it, often a result of faulty glow plugs which stop the DPF regenerating as well as short journeys, it can try to but instead the fuel it needs to do so gets in the engine oil, some of these seize the crankshaft bearings or start knocking, how it might relate to copious amounts of smoke I don't know yet, but as suggested, the turbo could also fail, same thing, no oil supply to a part spinning tens of thousands of rpm, exactly what it'd have been doing when you were pulling out of a bend, on boost, gets hot, seizes or snaps turbine shaft, so you may be lucky and it just be a turbo, but..... the clue for me is if you right away acknowledge now the starter operation is slow, ie engine doesn't want to turn, this isn't a turbo condition so much perhaps, it could be one of the other scenarios also, so is destined to come apart possibly?

they are a repairable motor, just not cheap stuff, don't just go and buy another used engine though, there is some suspect stuff for sale, frying pan and fire etc.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
will be the turbo would suspect common around 80-120k when the dpf filter in exhaust causes back pressure and head and takes out the seals, so if find turbo failed must fit a turbo most also fit dpf filter at same time,,
if when it bellowed smoke it rev'd like hell and would not switch off untill all the oil had been used to run the engine ie when turbo fails it dumps red out think engine oil in to the inlet,, this is called diesel runaway google it if yours done this then bin the engine to be honest they dont tend to come back right after as wear the internals with no oil for a while,,, also if car been running round for a long time with dpf filter partially blocked as they do this causes diesel to bypass piston rings and load the sump with diesel this also damages the turbo seals and well as the whole engine ,,, this all aid its possible it been caught in time and like said new dpf and cat and turbo maybe be all of it, but expensive genuine parts 2k bill ish refurb turbo a lot cheaper and either a dpf delete mot mot failure grey area visual check only cant tell if been pulled out if done right, cat2u,com do after market filter around 拢360 for eec spec, compared to nearly a grand from bmw ,,, little tip you can off set some of the cost by having the old cat and dpf filter back and tasking to a scrap yard bigger one the better prob get around 拢150-350 back on old ones as long as are the genuine one as have metals in them worth a bit,

hi Mike
There was definitely oil in the inlet that was the first thing my dad saw when he took it off to look at the turbo
Looks like it鈥檚 a new Engine 馃う馃徏鈥嶁檧锔 I鈥檓 devastated as I鈥檝e never had a problem with the car at all it鈥檚 been spot on then this happens there was no warning lights or anything

It won鈥檛 even try and turn over now
Any idea how much a reconditioned engine will be or point me in the right direction of where to look I鈥檓 based in Durham
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I wonder if it wasn't still running but just rolling under it's own momentum hence smoke appeared to clear?

N47 engine so timing chain issue or quite likely the oil scenario mentioned above, what you think is oil can easily be a mix of oil and diesel, the diesel in it will kill it, often a result of faulty glow plugs which stop the DPF regenerating as well as short journeys, it can try to but instead the fuel it needs to do so gets in the engine oil, some of these seize the crankshaft bearings or start knocking, how it might relate to copious amounts of smoke I don't know yet, but as suggested, the turbo could also fail, same thing, no oil supply to a part spinning tens of thousands of rpm, exactly what it'd have been doing when you were pulling out of a bend, on boost, gets hot, seizes or snaps turbine shaft, so you may be lucky and it just be a turbo, but..... the clue for me is if you right away acknowledge now the starter operation is slow, ie engine doesn't want to turn, this isn't a turbo condition so much perhaps, it could be one of the other scenarios also, so is destined to come apart possibly?

they are a repairable motor, just not cheap stuff, don't just go and buy another used engine though, there is some suspect stuff for sale, frying pan and fire etc.
thank you for your reply 鈥 I think your right best to get inside the engine and turbo and see what鈥檚 going on.
The car try鈥檚 to start but it鈥檚 like if the battery is flat very very slow
I bloody love this car as well so I鈥檓 desperate not to give up on it ha ha
 

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thank you for your reply 鈥 I think your right best to get inside the engine and turbo and see what鈥檚 going on.
The car try鈥檚 to start but it鈥檚 like if the battery is flat very very slow
I bloody love this car as well so I鈥檓 desperate not to give up on it ha ha
just repair it, better your own motor than a random one repaired in a way you can't see that could have been worse, who knows what it can be concealing internally, people reassemble them with significant damage still evident on the basis folk can't see it so won't know, even though they'll run, yours 'could' be a better base so is worth stripping before you commit to anything, maybe?
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thank you for your reply 鈥 I think your right best to get inside the engine and turbo and see what鈥檚 going on.
The car try鈥檚 to start but it鈥檚 like if the battery is flat very very slow
I bloody love this car as well so I鈥檓 desperate not to give up on it ha ha
when turbo failed did car just stop right away never ran on its oil, if stopped right away chance are its sucked a load of oil in to the cylinders and has hydro 'd them ie the pistons cant compress engine oil chance are this could be the case,
engines are around start off at 拢1000 for higher miles stuff up to 拢3000 for lower mileage engine, the N47 diesel suffer timing chains around 80-120k most snap or jump teeth and do damage,
think you best course of action is if were me would get mechanic to turn engine by hand over and over until pushes most of oil out the bores,, i would also pull inlet and exhaust manifolds off before doing this then i would spray loads of brake cleaner in each bore this will turn oil thin and will drain way,, once can get engine turn over i would remove the turbo blank off the turbo oil feed fill with oil and start engine with oil pressure gauge and diagnostics tool on live data and look for pressures and any misfires etc if got good oil pressure and got runs on all 4 cylinder then turbo and dpf should sort it, would never try and start one after such failure until ensure no oil in inlet also need to remove inter cooler and clean it through and pipe work
 
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just repair it, better your own motor than a random one repaired in a way you can't see that could have been worse, who knows what it can be concealing internally, people reassemble them with significant damage still evident on the basis folk can't see it so won't know, even though they'll run, yours 'could' be a better base so is worth stripping before you commit to anything, maybe?
View attachment 281915 View attachment 281916 View attachment 281917
i totally agree with this comment its how i tell it to customers at work can buy a used engine that is not better than one sat in car rebuild it is by fair the clever way forward , get better for money and know got a good 100k left in it,
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
282035

Had a fault test on the mini and these are here along with a couple of glow plug faults
Anyone come across the 4DF9. Not much on google
 

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glow plugs failure has prevented the particulate filter to regen and is now blocked with soot, if ecu has any fault codes stored it will not regen and will block the dpf and cause what codes you have,
 

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added note car wont start now because exhaust is totally blocked due to dpf and soot
 
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