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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,

Another newbie with a problem.

Posting on behalf of my father who isn't online but does own the problem Cooper S of the title.

Tuesday it drove fine.
This morning, ( Saturday 21st Jan ), he got in it to start it and it refused to fire. We've tried it quite a few times since, with the same result each time.

Turn the key, the warning lights on the speedo and rev counter go out, and all that can be heard is a clicking noise from somewhere in the engine. I'm assuming this is the starter motor but couldn't say for sure. Also the headlights flash rapidly for a few seconds.

Has anyone else had a similar problem with an 04 Cooper S?

Had the power steering pump replaced last year, so fairly sure its not that.

The wipers work, front side lights light, but not the main headlights on dip or main beam.

Thanks in advance,

Tim
 

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Almost certainly the battery has failed......is it the original BMW battery from 2004? Mine did exactly the same last month (2002) Average life of a battery is approx. 7 years
 

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I don't even own a Mini.
But on another car I was convinced the clicking was a duff starter motor - turned out it was the battery (I'd have expected the knackered battery to struggle, but just caused the starter to click - odd).
So as others have said, probably the battery :)
 

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Mine did this and the flat battery was due to the thermo fan staying on to a point where the battery went dead flat. Before you buy a new battery just check that nothing "electrical" has caused it to be drained as in my case.

I had to get a new thermo fan and assembly fitted as the fault couldn't be traced.
 

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The 'clicking' of the starter motor is the solonoid moving the starter pinion gear into the flywheel ring-gear but then the battery does not have enough power to turn the starter motor and the engine over.
 

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Hi everyone, I have a clicking sound coming from fuse F1 (Digital Engine Electronics Control Unit) when the key is in position 1. also the ABS pump is making the clicking sound, when I unplug the fuse the sound stops, but the fuse is good. Can you guys help me here!

2004 Mini Cooper S.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks Guys!

Have put the battery on charge today, and after about 5 hours it fired up with no problem.

So its definately the battery, which on closer inspection does look like the original. Can't grumble at it going after 8 years, even if my father has only had it for 3.

Thanks again for all your help.

Tim :)
 

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Same problem?

Hi,

I have exactly the same problem described above - horrible clicking sound when I try to turn it over.

However, everything electrical looks to be working - headlights look to be normal power, immobiliser is working etc.

As a mechanical novice, before I shell out and replace the battery (armed with you tube and a spanner), is there anything I can do to check it actually is the battery is the problem?

Thanks in advance!!
 

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You could measure the battery voltage with a meter.

Alternatively, get a jump start and see if the car starts.

Another alternative, provided you have breakdown cover, call them to come and have a look.
 

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I have the same problem! it wont simply start and I am late for work! what a morning! I had battery checked, it was "GOOD" but what else must it be then? alternator??
 

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I have the same problem! it wont simply start and I am late for work! what a morning! I had battery checked, it was "GOOD" but what else must it be then? alternator??
When you say the Batt is good ? did you check it for voltage only or did you load test it for its CCA (Cold Cranking Amps) capability, if the batt is old and its no longer capable of supplying the required CCA the you wont start, especially on a cold day. Have the CCA capability checked and confirmed, then start fault finding for other issues.
 

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I'm having the same issue with a 2007 cooper... Battery has been replaced 3 times and just fitted a new one to find it still won't turn over until jumped? Any ideas?
 

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I have a similar problem with my 2010 Mini Cooper. I couldn't get it to start the other night. I have a push start. So here is what happened: I put the key in, all the lights on the dashboard and the headlights came on, but when I pushed the Start/Stop button, it would sound like it was going to crank for about one second, then quit. Then I tried a little later, and it sounded like it was going to turn over, but made this awful grinding noise. I had it jump started, which seemed like it may have helped, but I drove about a quarter mile, turned it off and couldn't get it to start again. Again, I had it jump started. I drove it home (the symbols BRAKE and triangle with the exclaimation point with a circle around it were both on), and when I turned off the engine (the key was still in the ignition) the headlights started flickering like crazy, as well as the light on the car charger (but the lights on the dash and tachometer were fine and didn't do anything). Also when it was doing that, I heard this weird noise that sounded like it was coming from the fuse box on the passenger side. The next day I had the battery checked at O'Reillys and they said it was good (there are no punch holes which indicate how old the battery is though). I started it up that morning, but it sounded a little sluggish when starting. I took it to the shop and they can't seem to find anything wrong. So I was hoping that someone here would have some helpful advice.
 

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I would start with simple voltage checks.

-With the car off, what is the voltage at the battery? 11 - 12 volts is probably OK. Less than that is a discharged battery. Put a charger on it for a few hours and try again.

-With the car running (jumper cables removed), what it the voltage at the battery?
--If you see less than 13V (expect 13.8 - 14.5 on most cars) your alternator is probably done.
--If you have 13.8 - 14.5 volts on the battery with the car running, the alternator is ok, but the battery may be toast. Put it on a proper charger and retest the battery voltage after a few hours of charging..

-If both standing (12V) and running (13.8 - 14.5V) are good and the car still just "clicks", then you'll want to have someone do a proper load test on the battery. If it passes, your starter is probably pooched. If it fails, well.. your battery is boned.
 

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Did you ever get this figured out? I have the same problem now.

I have a similar problem with my 2010 Mini Cooper. I couldn't get it to start the other night. I have a push start. So here is what happened: I put the key in, all the lights on the dashboard and the headlights came on, but when I pushed the Start/Stop button, it would sound like it was going to crank for about one second, then quit. Then I tried a little later, and it sounded like it was going to turn over, but made this awful grinding noise. I had it jump started, which seemed like it may have helped, but I drove about a quarter mile, turned it off and couldn't get it to start again. Again, I had it jump started. I drove it home (the symbols BRAKE and triangle with the exclaimation point with a circle around it were both on), and when I turned off the engine (the key was still in the ignition) the headlights started flickering like crazy, as well as the light on the car charger (but the lights on the dash and tachometer were fine and didn't do anything). Also when it was doing that, I heard this weird noise that sounded like it was coming from the fuse box on the passenger side. The next day I had the battery checked at O'Reillys and they said it was good (there are no punch holes which indicate how old the battery is though). I started it up that morning, but it sounded a little sluggish when starting. I took it to the shop and they can't seem to find anything wrong. So I was hoping that someone here would have some helpful advice.
 

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I have a similar problem with my 2010 Mini Cooper. I couldn't get it to start the other night. I have a push start. So here is what happened: I put the key in, all the lights on the dashboard and the headlights came on, but when I pushed the Start/Stop button, it would sound like it was going to crank for about one second, then quit. Then I tried a little later, and it sounded like it was going to turn over, but made this awful grinding noise. I had it jump started, which seemed like it may have helped, but I drove about a quarter mile, turned it off and couldn't get it to start again. Again, I had it jump started. I drove it home (the symbols BRAKE and triangle with the exclaimation point with a circle around it were both on), and when I turned off the engine (the key was still in the ignition) the headlights started flickering like crazy, as well as the light on the car charger (but the lights on the dash and tachometer were fine and didn't do anything). Also when it was doing that, I heard this weird noise that sounded like it was coming from the fuse box on the passenger side. The next day I had the battery checked at O'Reillys and they said it was good (there are no punch holes which indicate how old the battery is though). I started it up that morning, but it sounded a little sluggish when starting. I took it to the shop and they can't seem to find anything wrong. So I was hoping that someone here would have some helpful advice.
Might be the cas module under the dashboard. Good battery but no start. Its part of the anti theft system
 

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If the voltage of the battery or alternator or both drops because one or other is failing, even slightly all sorts of bizarre things start happening. Best bet fit one of these so you can watch the voltage of the battery and alternator. Then as your battery starts to go, you'll know and can get it sorted before you get to the 'won't start' stage.
 
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