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Hello, I wondered if anyone can help! I have a 65 plate Mini Cooper D countryman Business edition with 50k on the clock. It is coming up with this fault intermittently. The car kind of judders then this will come up.
I took it to the garage today who said I needed a new drivers side ABS sensor and that my clutch was on the way out. The sensor was done but driving it home the same thing happened again a few little judders and this fault.
It only seems to do it when I’m on the dual carriageway doing about 70. It also disables start/stop. The fault won’t stay there. Yesterday I parked the car for 20 mins and when I stated it again it was gone.
Anyone have any ideas?
Thanks for your help.

280349
 

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2008 Mini Cooper S hatchback,Automatic,Mello Yellow
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Intervals right after erasing any code having to do with traction,abs,brakes and stuff can sometimes take a drive while the computer resets and re calibrates the new parts.
So you sensor was replaced but not the clutch? That could be the problem. depending on the mileage the lower motor mount may also need to be replaced. In the end it sounds like a Brake situation that someone else brought up on the form about a month ago. There problem was a faulty caliper.
In a faulty caliper situation the brakes still look fine but causes a shaking on stopping or idling idling around right after a stop. As the caliper itself is partially engaged and not at the same time.
You can have someone check for fluid around your calipers and see if there is a leak. Replace the lower and or upper engine mounts.
I would just replace my upper and lower engine mount as well as the transmission mount after getting the clutch replaced. And if the calipers and brakes are in good shape and no brake hoses are bulging no brake fluid leaking then all the problems would be fixed. Thing is quality parts these days. The price of new calipers if one does them is not always that great when one purchases bargain brake calipers. Something to aware of. That calipers may need to be shimmed(in vs out distance) the edges(tips) of the moon shape calipers grinded as to not make contact with the brake rotors.
Aside of that ;everything that would possibly create that problem; conventionally. Would be resolved.
On the low end upper and lower engine mount and clutch.
 

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Mini Paceman Cooper D MY2014
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Hello, I wondered if anyone can help! I have a 65 plate Mini Cooper D countryman Business edition with 50k on the clock. It is coming up with this fault intermittently. The car kind of judders then this will come up.
I took it to the garage today who said I needed a new drivers side ABS sensor and that my clutch was on the way out. The sensor was done but driving it home the same thing happened again a few little judders and this fault.
It only seems to do it when I’m on the dual carriageway doing about 70. It also disables start/stop. The fault won’t stay there. Yesterday I parked the car for 20 mins and when I stated it again it was gone.
Anyone have any ideas?
Thanks for your help.
Hello

So you've a judder, an Abs fault logged and your garage says your clutch is on its way out.

Is the judder occurring when driving forward whilst you are not using the clutch?....
....or is the judder as you set off and release the clutch?

If it's the former, my experience of judders created by ABS faults are that the sensors and the sensor rings are instrumental in passing a signal to the engine computer which translates this into a momentary cutting out of the engine for a nano second then back to normal running. Imagine this happening really quickly and you will get the feeling of an engine misfire, cos that's what it is doing.
If the sensor is bad and/or the sensor ring on the stub axle or transmission joints are corroded or split the above scenario can be invoked.
You have had a sensor changed but what state are the sensor rings in?

A juddering clutch needs investigating. It could be worn down to the rivets, it could be contaminated with oil from a leaking seal at the back of the clutch. You should be able too easily recreate this symptom as you release the clutch from a standing hill start. This is often exacerbated when the car is at full operating temperature.

Hope some of that ramble is of use to you.
 

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2008 Mini Cooper S hatchback,Automatic,Mello Yellow
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I would check to see if my tires have the correct amount of air in them. And that they also are balanced. These days it is getting tougher for someone to properly balance a set of tires.
Here is a link to a tool that can do it at home and achieve equal results.
In contrast to a balancer machine that someone may or may not know how to operate in the modern era.
Simple put the wheel on it and add weights to it. Until it is evened out. Balancing like this is good to 80 miles per hour easy.
Dynamically balancing is what the garage does. But if they do not know how to use for different reasons. Like there machine is more for larger tires or whatever reason.
I would make sure the tires are balanced!
Correctly filling up the tires to the rated pressure 35 pounds. Or if you have switched to non run flats. The correct pressure is printed on the side wall of the tire.
But about 42 pounds is off hand a good air pressure number to go with!
 

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I would check to see if my tires have the correct amount of air in them. And that they also are balanced. These days it is getting tougher for someone to properly balance a set of tires.

Cazg86, I would guess you are wondering why JTownPBX has veered to tyre pressures based uponyour explanation of symptoms? Reading between the lines I think they are wondering if the judder you are experiencing is wheel balance at 70mph, and they are guiding you to get the pressures and balance checked to rule that out....although even if it was that it would be unlikely to trigger the fault message you have.
So if you feel judder at the steering wheel (front wheels)or the seat base(back wheels) might be worth doing anyway.

One thing I didn't mention in my previous post was that a wheel bearing with excessive play in can create havoc with ABS systems. There should be a constant air gap between the sensor and sensor ring. If the wheel bearing has play, that gap moves, getting larger and smaller via steering movement and road bumps. This can trigger a fault too.
 

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I all seriousness. it Says braking/Driving stabilization. Now. I have already addressed issues like this before with my Mini. When ever it throws a Stabilization code or anything that starts going into the transmission.
That lets me know. It's like the Wall that hand ball players use. It does not change.
And that is a transmission code. So that lets me know that not only is there a ABS issue that there is also a engine issue. And in the end if one can spend thousands on a new transmission. Believing that to be wrong.
And solve the problem of how do I make my 80 horsepower engine run without giving me a transmission code.
Instead of how do I fix my engine so it will give me the 120 horsepower as per the rated or horsepower of my engine when it was new. So that my transmission will quit throwing a code because it is fine.
DST codes. Sport modes. Are not always indicative of ABS or Transmission related problems.
So you would need a Scanner tool to look into that. Then make the rational decision on which direction to pursue the problem.
 

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My brother had something similar with his 1 series BMW. It had a judder/stutter and intermittent abs failure warnings. It turned out to be one if the reluctor rings, which are the rings the abs sensors use to make sure all the wheels are going the same speed (hope that makes sense) the judder was it cutting power as it thinks one wheel is spinning and I'm told the brake was applied on and off to the wheel it thinks is spinning. Replaced the rings on his car and problem solved, I'm not sure about your car but Gen 1&2 cars the ring is part of the wheel bearing assy.
 

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2008 Mini Cooper S hatchback,Automatic,Mello Yellow
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My brother had something similar with his 1 series BMW. It had a judder/stutter and intermittent abs failure warnings. It turned out to be one if the reluctor rings, which are the rings the abs sensors use to make sure all the wheels are going the same speed (hope that makes sense) the judder was it cutting power as it thinks one wheel is spinning and I'm told the brake was applied on and off to the wheel it thinks is spinning. Replaced the rings on his car and problem solved, I'm not sure about your car but Gen 1&2 cars the ring is part of the wheel bearing assy.
It could be the ABS sensor! Not saying it's not. But you have to implore the idea it is not a BMW down there by the wheel. It does not have Upper control arms on the wheel. It's not a Honda with faulty ABS sensors every weekend!
 

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it Says braking/Driving stabilization.
it also states in equally large letters "ABS FAILED"
So at this stage of investigation you shouldn't be balancing wheels or looking at transmissions, not really, and I speak from experience of such a fault, albeit a different car, rectified with only a new ABS reluctor ring/sensor ring.


So you would need a Scanner tool to look into that. Then make the rational decision on which direction to pursue the problem.
Most definitely yes a scan of codes will assist a true diagnostic technician instead of a fitter of parts who throws all sorts of whimsical ideas into the mix whilst chasing a fault.

I'm all for ideas but not too many at once and best practice is to make a visual assessment to check for the blindingly obvious, i.e. Split/corroded reluctor ring, confirming the customer complaint i.e. go for a drive and experience the problem, then read the codes and work from there, something none of the contributors in this forum thread can do, as were not with the car.

But hey, it's not my car. I'll let the lady decide what to do next, I've put my best guess forward. Fingers crossed you get it sorted Cazg86. Lettuce snow now you get on....;)
 

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There is nothing left after everything I have mentioned here. Unless the car suffered some type of damage.
I am one of the few people that have confidence in Mini Cooper product. All be it. It took me rebuilding my engine to really figure out. When they say you only need to change the oil every 10,000 they mean it. It makes sense. When I got my car I did not buy it second hand it is a one owner car. I have the owners manual and the operators manual for the car. They both are printed on the same matte thick paper(operators manual is magazine sized). Along with all the trimmings that come with buying a Mini Cooper.
The part in the operators manual that says do not warm the car up! Just get in it and drive it. That is another thing they mean.
And sense I have rebuilt my engine. I can go 10,000 miles before a oil change as I will not be burning any oil any time soon. Because I don't have composite plastic oil wiper rings, I have metal oil wiper rings. That I built the engine with. So yea burning oil for my Mini Cooper is a thing of the past.
A Mini cooper is like a model car kit you buy at a hobby shop. Not like a retail store. You can get all kinds of upgrades for it. but it comes with nothing particularity*. For the fact they are sold world wide. Like people that live out on dirt roads. They are gonna want different suspension and stuff. People that live where the streets are smooth are gonna wanna lower there car etc.

*meaning less than what a economy car would come with as far as resilient items that create weight and destroy the drive ability of a sports car, and at the same time are not that sporty off hand.
Example: is me driving down to Phoenix Arizona and a jacked up truck taking the same curvy road at 95 miles an hour down a mountain. And the Stock Mini Cooper only able to do 100 miles an hour.
 

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There is nothing left after everything I have mentioned here. Unless the car suffered some type of damage.
I am one of the few people that have confidence in Mini Cooper product. All be it. It took me rebuilding my engine to really figure out. When they say you only need to change the oil every 10,000 they mean it. It makes sense. When I got my car I did not buy it second hand it is a one owner car. I have the owners manual and the operators manual for the car. They both are printed on the same matte thick paper(operators manual is magazine sized). Along with all the trimmings that come with buying a Mini Cooper.
The part in the operators manual that says do not warm the car up! Just get in it and drive it. That is another thing they mean.
And sense I have rebuilt my engine. I can go 10,000 miles before a oil change as I will not be burning any oil any time soon. Because I don't have composite plastic oil wiper rings, I have metal oil wiper rings. That I built the engine with. So yea burning oil for my Mini Cooper is a thing of the past.
A Mini cooper is like a model car kit you buy at a hobby shop. Not like a retail store. You can get all kinds of upgrades for it. but it comes with nothing particularity*. For the fact they are sold world wide. Like people that live out on dirt roads. They are gonna want different suspension and stuff. People that live where the streets are smooth are gonna wanna lower there car etc.

*meaning less than what a economy car would come with as far as resilient items that create weight and destroy the drive ability of a sports car, and at the same time are not that sporty off hand.
Example: is me driving down to Phoenix Arizona and a jacked up truck taking the same curvy road at 95 miles an hour down a mountain. And the Stock Mini Cooper only able to do 100 miles an hour.
knowing how the whole system works helps for a start, surprised you never explained that to us all can you
 

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It could be the ABS sensor! Not saying it's not. But you have to implore the idea it is not a BMW down there by the wheel. It does not have Upper control arms on the wheel. It's not a Honda with faulty ABS sensors every weekend!
Seems I replied to you once and my reply has been removed?????
I know the difference between a BMW and a Mini. I was offering a perfectly plausible answer to a question I did not ask your opinion my answer was to the point and not paragraphs of totally irrelevant information as seems to be your favourite way of commenting on a post, why would wheel balancing be the issue and why go in to various methods of balancing. I have been on this forum for years and have enjoyed reading and responding when I have relevant experience instead of simply copy and paste. I have decided to call it a day now as almost every thread now seems to have totally irrelevant replies, I can't be bothered to read through all the bs and as far as o can see all you're doing is boost post count .
So thanks for all the bs and goodbye.
 

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Seems I replied to you once and my reply has been removed?????
I know the difference between a BMW and a Mini. I was offering a perfectly plausible answer to a question I did not ask your opinion my answer was to the point and not paragraphs of totally irrelevant information as seems to be your favourite way of commenting on a post, why would wheel balancing be the issue and why go in to various methods of balancing. I have been on this forum for years and have enjoyed reading and responding when I have relevant experience instead of simply copy and paste. I have decided to call it a day now as almost every thread now seems to have totally irrelevant replies, I can't be bothered to read through all the bs and as far as o can see all you're doing is boost post count .
So thanks for all the bs and goodbye.
Stu E,
I am new here but frequent many a car enthusiast forum and have never seen anything like the responses you refer to...it's just utter gibberish tbh.
It's a surprise that a moderator has not been along to curtail that behaviour....

When people ask for help they need short, to the point examples and pointers, to assist them in repairing their car, not some rambling incoherent illiterate nonsensical rubbish.

But anyways, personally ? I wouldn't let that one contributor stop me from helping others or me gaining knowledge.

Cazg86, if you haven't been scared off by all the above do let us know if what Stu E and myself suggested was the problem. It could help others in the future.

I'm off now, got to check the wheel balance on my car seeing as the dogs got a limp when I put him in reverse at 100mph on a curve...
 
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