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Yes, I absolutely agree with both your statements, and the worse thing is that nobody tells you that when you buy a diesel, particularly when economy is what diesel cars are allegedly advertised for. I mean, I get a superb economy when I'm driving it in 6th gear and 70mph (honestly, up to 68-70 mpg). But, when you have to "thrash" it for either passive or active regeneration to work, plus having to monitor this thing once in a while, it really is a pain...

Anyway, I'll do my next trip constantly revving it at 3,500 or above just to see when passive regeneration really kicks in (how many miles in) and how efficient it is compared to the active one.
Someone worked out you need to go above 80 in forth so just not worth it as the fuel economy is rubbish and just let it regen when it wants to


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i see all the trouble it causes and its fairly big on all makes of cars, fiat and vauxhall their little party trick is to melt hols in heads and to melt away the block between 3 and 4 cylinders, they also and most dpf cars do this push unburnt diesel in to the engine oil in the sump and thins it so much it destroys the crankshaft bearings, even vw engines from 2006 onwards do this, see the filter stops carbon from coming out the tail pipe so it ends up stuck to anything metal before the dpf filter this causes all kinds of failures with vnt turbo and piston rings and wear of timing chains etc on top of that is the high temps forced on anything behind the filter when it turns in to a furnace to clean its self, keeps me busy so not all bad but the 2-3k bills customers face at worse when it all lets go is not nice,
 

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Hi to all, and to Mike 1967.

I have read, all of this DPF filters problems.Need to buy some used ,2014 Countryman 2.0 SD(180000km) ,with BMW N47 engine, which was used 99% out of city,
but i will drive it 90% time in the the city.
If i have understand Mike, the best option is to, turn Off DPF and EGR?
If for example, i remove DPF, for special cleaning procedure, at 90-99% clean rate, how many city miles, it need to be driven, for dpf, to be full again?



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Discussion Starter #64
Hi Xenon,

Mike will give you a better answer, but in my brief experience, I'd tell you not to buy a Diesel in that case. Sure, the 2014 model will be a EURO6 one, so you will be exempt from potential diesel flat rate charges being introduced in major cities in the future (not from London's ULEZ though, there you need to go electric or hybrid to be exempt in any case); but, you will have to monitor your DPF from time to time and clean it.

At 180k kilometres (~112k miles), the car should have had a DPF change already, otherwise don't bother buying it, unless you have some good skills to change it yourself, or be prepared to pay for a replacement at a good mechanic (stay away from dealerships at any cost, they charge a flat's price to change it).

I can't tell you a figure, as we're talking for a different car (2.0L engine), different technology (DPFs in the post 2013 models has been moved closer to the heat source to be more efficient), and I don't know your capacity, how aggressively you drive and how many start-stop conditions you're facing daily. In my case ('63 registration, 1.6 Cooper D, 43k miles, 21 grams of Ash in the DPF), I need three weeks of smooth city driving (2 x sub-5 miles trips daily, locally with no heavy start-stop city traffic) to fill it halfway through and I manually take it for a ride forcing a regeneration via Carly (unless I'm planning a trip, where I'm monitoring the soot levels and whether the car requests regeneration itself on the way back - otherwise I'm doing it manually) and it seems to work OK.
 

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Thanks for info.

I have checked, for thet mini with 180.000km, at my official bmw garage.At 110.000km,it get all new engine, in warranty period, in 2017 year.
Am i safe now???


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Thanks for info.

I have checked, for thet mini with 180000km, at my official bmw garage.At 110.000km,it get all new engine, in warranty period in 2017 year.
Am i safe now???


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180,0000kml so 111.847 miles hmm that seems to be top end of when they do the chains and destroy the engine, ie snap or slip teeth saying that see a lot at around 80,000 miles on all n47 diesels, did they replace the dpf filter at same time if not would deffo need doing
 

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Hi Xenon,

Mike will give you a better answer, but in my brief experience, I'd tell you not to buy a Diesel in that case. Sure, the 2014 model will be a EURO6 one, so you will be exempt from potential diesel flat rate charges being introduced in major cities in the future (not from London's ULEZ though, there you need to go electric or hybrid to be exempt in any case); but, you will have to monitor your DPF from time to time and clean it.

At 180k kilometres (~112k miles), the car should have had a DPF change already, otherwise don't bother buying it, unless you have some good skills to change it yourself, or be prepared to pay for a replacement at a good mechanic (stay away from dealerships at any cost, they charge a flat's price to change it).

I can't tell you a figure, as we're talking for a different car (2.0L engine), different technology (DPFs in the post 2013 models has been moved closer to the heat source to be more efficient), and I don't know your capacity, how aggressively you drive and how many start-stop conditions you're facing daily. In my case ('63 registration, 1.6 Cooper D, 43k miles, 21 grams of Ash in the DPF), I need three weeks of smooth city driving (2 x sub-5 miles trips daily, locally with no heavy start-stop city traffic) to fill it halfway through and I manually take it for a ride forcing a regeneration via Carly (unless I'm planning a trip, where I'm monitoring the soot levels and whether the car requests regeneration itself on the way back - otherwise I'm doing it manually) and it seems to work OK.
euro 6 came in September 2015 is a better system but still must treat the filter as a service item,

 

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They have just replaced engine in 2017 at 110.000 km.
DPF has not been changed.
All km, 110.000 km+ 70.000 km, with new engine, was out of city driving.
If DPF will make problems, i will delete it.IT will cost me 140 euros.
Or to delete DPF+EGR+ Remap it to 199HP?
What do you think?


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They have just replaced engine in 2017 at 110.000 km.
DPF has not been changed.
All km, 110.000 km+ 70.000 km, with new engine, was out of city driving.
If DPF will make problems, i will delete it.IT will cost me 140 euros.
Or to delete DPF+EGR+ Remap it to 199HP?
What do you think?


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take my word for it delete dont wait for it to kill another engine off, we doing remaps and deletes etc have done for years so see both sides of it all, ie main after feedback is better mpg and also goes from mot on gas check lower and also the engine oil stays very clean after which is the best point clean oil dont wear the chain as much, also when car regens it adds diesel to engine oil thins it and this also damages things over time, believe me if your at that point with it that delete is fine with you its prob the best job you will ever do for the future life of engine and costs of dealing with the damage its causes
 

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Thanks for info.

Does to delete and EGR as well, or only DPF.
To Remap it?
Because i am not in your country, can i for example to pay for your SW?







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yep would always have both deleted as they share a lot of the ecu function for emissions and also with egr deleted and blanked with a blanking plate,, and more importantly the dpf filter its self must be done in a way that cant tell if been removed,, ie cut around the welds that are already there and re-weld so looks factory as such this avoids issues with mot in uk ie visual check, filter must be removed internally,, i have in past cut the outlet pipe off them and used a long 500mm masonry drill bit works best and just keep drilling it away,,on some cars the cat is part of dpf filter and that also needs to come out,, its possible to map out ecu ie post a ecu and have it programmed but better for it all to be done on the car as such, that said on new bmw ecu's now they will lock out any non genuine software to read write them in this case its a ecu out and desolder the chip and write it in a special holder as such,
this all said you could contact john on the uk number below and ask whats possible etc might be poss to post it etc.
 

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Thanks for all Mike.

I have just one more question.

Mini is from 2014, last production year for N47 engine, and thet engine has been failed in 2017 year,after 110.000km( what to say for older N47 engines).New N47 engine, with new chain ,has been put into Mini, and have new 70.000 km, with thet second new chain.
Does i need to go for another, third one, new chain, after 70.000km????
Just can not belive, thet there was not, some new chain redesign!!!!
One BMW official garage, told me thet there were new chain redesign, and part number was changed.Do you maybe have some infos ahout thet?


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Thanks for all Mike.

I have just one more question.

Mini is from 2014, last production year for N47 engine, and thet engine has been failed in 2017 year,after 110.000km( what to say for older N47 engines).New N47 engine, with new chain ,has been put into Mini, and have new 70.000 km, with thet second new chain.
Does i need to go for another, third one, new chain, after 70.000km????
Just can not belive, thet there was not, some new chain redesign!!!!
One BMW official garage, told me thet there were new chain redesign, and part number was changed.Do you maybe have some infos ahout thet?


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well my trust would be more in the people like bbc tv watch dog program and how they really got to bottom of it as being a issue on all n47 diesels, as for they saying these chain kits now have different part numbers from bmw main dealers could be true but bmw have a nasty little habit of avoiding the facts ie the endless failed chains form 50,000 miles to just over 100,000 miles and most seem in the 70.000 miles to 90.000 miles bracket,, and when you also add this counting to all the other cars that engine is in and how many of them fail, and most fail out side of the warranty time so thousands not go through bmw main agents workshops anyway, but the low mileage failures ones ie under 3 years old bmw shovel this off as drive abuse wrong oil low oil drive abuse,, as they toad the bbc tv program they also told them they had revised the tensioner ie prob given it more travel so the problem of the rattle before snapping would be further up the road or get no warning and engine of engine as many did, i've noticed that early n47 diesels gave more warning than the later ones, i've done a fair few of them in different bmw mini cars and use after market chain kits in them and have always been able to fit same kit whether first engines or the very last, very easy to change a part number without changing the part its self two second job at the factory on a pc. as for when it needs a new chain kit again thats just the game or Russian roulette that stopped me from ever owning another one to be honest,, would not have been so bad if they had just left the chain at front of engine so could be changed a lot faster than the stupid chain at rear of engine. the engine before it m47 had a few weak points but could be sorted easy ie swirl flaps being a must do job on them,, but seen many of thise do over 200.000 miles in fact my daughters one ie 320d compact was 150bhp standard and i mapped that and some other stuff around 200bhp and just kept going on and on.
in the past 6 months i have seen at least 6 mini cooper d spares repairs on ebay with timing chains failed between 2011-2014 guess the if was true the chain was revised in some way it never worked lol. or might just be the owners using them lol as bmw point out
 
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