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wont comment on any apps dont ever get involved with them as from past experiences with people telling me they have used such things and tell me whats wrong with someone thing to then plug it in with scanner that will do the job and i know will to find its not what they say it is, also someone on here said the app tells them or the weight of soot in the filter,, hmmm cant see how it can know that, all we have in the trade is pre and post pressure sensors that tell us how blocked it is, also when was last regen ie passive and also when replaced to reset the ecu ,, a few years a go i used one on a car as was in middle of know where and my laptop had taken a crap,, sot of it i took what it was telling me as being what was happening with a piloted thermostat and what the temp sensor was reading ie it told me was -48 below zero,, was not until scanned with a good scanner again that found for some reason it just did not like that car. so i only ever based my views on faults with scan tools that i would know will scan all codes and correctly
 

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Discussion Starter #82
Hi both!

@mike1967 is absolutely correct in that there exist several softwares and OBD2 readers that are misleading, inaccurate or laggy. I had a couple ordered from Amazon in the past that showed me all sorts of inaccuracies in temperatures, fluid levels etc.

Personally, I am very happy with Carly' solution (it's software + OBD2 for about 100$) as it gives you the possibility to request regeneration just as if the car did it itself when needed (along with other things of course, such as coding or scanning for issues etc.). Yes, it is true that it can show grams for the DPF, but it can also show pressure before and after the particulate filter (although I've got no idea what the latter's benchmark values are). I've familiarised myself with the former, but it is car-specific. For instance, in my Dooper (63 plate 1.6 R56), I know that it's time to take it for a ride and clean the DPF at about 14-16 grams. In an ideal world, one should see if the car has requested regeneration (that is Regeneration status 4.00), so that you don't need to request it yourself but you see if it needs one and you just take it for a spin. However, I'm doing it myself anyway if it gets to that level. So far I haven't had any problems, but I cannot guarantee or suggest that to another member, as it's literally a "do it at your own risk" situation. I do, however, take Mike's recommendation for more frequent oil changes under consideration, and I'll do it every 6-8k miles or a year - whichever comes first - and monitor the oil levels frequently as well. In addition, I'll change the DPF filter at about 75k miles anyway.

Last, but not least, no matter if I requested the regeneration myself, or if the car did it, the regeneration window was always 14 minutes. Whether it's enough or not depends on multiple factors. I find that the best case scenario is constant speed at about 70 mph in 6th gear (i.e. lower rpms) for the whole duration, 'cause if you stop and start or are in a breaking/accelerating scenario (too much traffic) it won't work as well. It wouldn't work as well if you're thrashing it too, e.g. if you're doing 70mph at 4th gear. What I mean by "it won't work as well" is that it will regenerate, but it won't burn too much soot. For instance, if I do the regeneration "perfectly" (70 mph 6th gear no traffic), it goes from 15 grams of soot to about 2 grams easily in just 14 minutes. If not, it might go to 6-7 or even 10 (depending on how often it pauses the regeneration - as the window is always the same, 14 minutes; it's just the burning rate that changes depending on the driving circumstances).

According to RAC:

"[...] it should be possible to complete a regeneration cycle and clear the warning light by driving for 10 minutes or so at speeds greater than 40mph."

and, according to the MINI's manual:

"The cleaning process takes a few minutes to complete [...] ".

So, I don't think that it's unreasonable to do a regeneration in just 14 minutes. Of course, again, it depends on the driving circumstances, how blocked the DPF is, and the condition/age of the car as Mike said.


P.S. Using Cataclean every 4 months does help by the way (thanks Mike), and you can feel it in acceleration as well. Also, I did notice that the soot burning rate increases for about a month to a month and a half after using Cataclean. It may be the case that the burning rate increases with other brands too, but I haven't tested any other when measuring the car's regenerations.
 

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with live data it will show you percentage and time since last regen on the filter, and how many miles since last changed filter,
you might like this next bit, now i have not try'd this yet but can see how its possible, a friend of mine same age and specialises in bmw diesels mainly, i was speaking to him about n47 diesel and timing chain and replacement he told me he can change just the chain without removing the engine or gearbox i tried to get him to tell me more but he changed the subject after everytime i ask how,, but he did say its possible as he has been doing it for a long time,
so the only way i can come up with would be this, remove rocker cover mark top sprocket mark front crank pulley at tdc, then lock the chain tensioner with its lock pin, after this would need a chain link tool to remove a link from old chain leave chain on engine then do same with new chain and link one end to the old chain and get someone to rotate the engine clockwise while someone holds and keeps pressure on the new chain being fed in to the top sprocket while feeding the old chain out then re join the new chain with chain link toll job done new chain fitted,, i worked this out with what he did sort of say, i know in perfect world having the guides done as well and timing reset with lock tool. but in all honesty the guides dont wear and a new chain will put timing back perfect anyway but the down side is the bottom sprocket not knowing how worn that is,, i would say a 100k engine the sprocket will be so worn on a 70k car you could get away with it,
I have been reading this info with horror! The whole idea of a diesel is longevity and economy but these BMW diesels are so expensive to maintain that any savings over petrol are more than lost, I am a mechanic and work on diesels a lot, I have a mate that had a BMW X3, it broke down all the time and cost such a lot in parts DPF cleaning tyres etc that in the end he bought a different make of car and has saved a fortune. So I have come up with some simple rules for every day drivers of motor cars, 1. Unless you drive high mileages/long trips, never buy a diesel 2. Never buy any modern diesel car, the engines are now so complex that when they go wrong it will always cost a fortune...and they always go wrong a lot! 3. Never buy a diesel car, even the best ones are not as nice to drive as a petrol, most people forget until they drive another petrol and remind themselves how quite and smooth it is!
 

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I have been reading this info with horror! The whole idea of a diesel is longevity and economy but these BMW diesels are so expensive to maintain that any savings over petrol are more than lost, I am a mechanic and work on diesels a lot, I have a mate that had a BMW X3, it broke down all the time and cost such a lot in parts DPF cleaning tyres etc that in the end he bought a different make of car and has saved a fortune. So I have come up with some simple rules for every day drivers of motor cars, 1. Unless you drive high mileages/long trips, never buy a diesel 2. Never buy any modern diesel car, the engines are now so complex that when they go wrong it will always cost a fortune...and they always go wrong a lot! 3. Never buy a diesel car, even the best ones are not as nice to drive as a petrol, most people forget until they drive another petrol and remind themselves how quite and smooth it is!
thats totally where i am with them we see a non stop dpf related damages better off with a mapped cooper s petrol mapped for for mid range torque and running cost reduces a tad more just timing chains to think about . or get LPG converted car, also the parts are so expensive injectors that last 50-100k £150 each high pressure pumps £600-£1200 dpf filter genuine £400 turbo charger £500 egr valve £300 later n47 diesels timing chain around 70-100k £1800 ish fitted then dmf flywheel and clutch kit £1000,, plus all the labour and hassle and diagnostic costs,
 

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Hi Mike

Where you have found a new DPF for £400?

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think they have gone ie not on ebay anymore or not on ebay to uk buyers maybe, next cheap option is a cleaning company who pressure clean them off the car with heat and back pressure etc,, ie they use extreme heat and air pressure in other direction to remove the soot and residue,, on news today the uk government have said they are bringing forward the ban on diesel and petrol cars ,, dear of them another unworked out plan that will cause so much aggro for everyone i guess,, then the double road fund taxes will start ie just keep edging it up and up,, someone told me that 2003 r53 cooper s is £350 per year or going to be increased to that,, was a time i enjoyed cars and now i've just about had enough nothing but hassle and tax on tax on tax everything is made of shite,, and its mainly EU built stuff, maybe now the uk is coming out japan will start bringing all their own market cars here and boy they have some really nice stuff reliable as well, even Korea build better cars than EU built stuff,, German cars were once one of the worlds best and now they all share engines and chassis and faults
 

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think they have gone ie not on ebay anymore or not on ebay to uk buyers maybe, next cheap option is a cleaning company who pressure clean them off the car with heat and back pressure etc,, ie they use extreme heat and air pressure in other direction to remove the soot and residue,, on news today the uk government have said they are bringing forward the ban on diesel and petrol cars ,, dear of them another unworked out plan that will cause so much aggro for everyone i guess,, then the double road fund taxes will start ie just keep edging it up and up,, someone told me that 2003 r53 cooper s is £350 per year or going to be increased to that,, was a time i enjoyed cars and now i've just about had enough nothing but hassle and tax on tax on tax everything is made of shite,, and its mainly EU built stuff, maybe now the uk is coming out japan will start bringing all their own market cars here and boy they have some really nice stuff reliable as well, even Korea build better cars than EU built stuff,, German cars were once one of the worlds best and now they all share engines and chassis and faults
Yes, diesels have become money pits due to over complexity of trying to make the quiet and smooth likea petrol. The Gov are also talking about banning hybrids if so EV's will need to progess a lot to be any good, If you waych Harrys Garage on YT you can see an EV test that shows just how useless they are at present.
 

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Yes, diesels have become money pits due to over complexity of trying to make the quiet and smooth likea petrol. The Gov are also talking about banning hybrids if so EV's will need to progess a lot to be any good, If you waych Harrys Garage on YT you can see an EV test that shows just how useless they are at present.
uk government have released a press thing staying they are now bring forward plans to stop selling all petrol diesels and hybrids from 2035 on latest unplanned thing to do,, 15 years to find and build enough power sources to run a country full full of battery powered cars, also the world needs to produce enough batteries to do that as well,, more like all cars will be only for the very very rich and working class people have a few options bus push bike electric bike maybe that will have the hell taxed out of them like cars do,, as when you remove all them cars you remove all that tax on tax on tax source, and governments and the very rich will find away to make us all pay ,, pity the next generations they have some really hard years a head of them,, one good think will come of it greed for oil form countries we dont really need to be messing with should stop,,
 

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uk government have released a press thing staying they are now bring forward plans to stop selling all petrol diesels and hybrids from 2035 on latest unplanned thing to do,, 15 years to find and build enough power sources to run a country full full of battery powered cars, also the world needs to produce enough batteries to do that as well,, more like all cars will be only for the very very rich and working class people have a few options bus push bike electric bike maybe that will have the hell taxed out of them like cars do,, as when you remove all them cars you remove all that tax on tax on tax source, and governments and the very rich will find away to make us all pay ,, pity the next generations they have some really hard years a head of them,, one good think will come of it greed for oil form countries we dont really need to be messing with should stop,,
Will most likely to get pushed back and further back as they can't meet the target date nearer the time, unless the gov and private companies puts loads and loads £££££££££££.

Just look at the state of transport and trying to get that up to scratch, compare that with other countries with good reliable transports, how many years have they been trying?

Maybe, if someone from the Greenpeace party was Prime Minster!!!

 

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Hi both!

@mike1967 is absolutely correct in that there exist several softwares and OBD2 readers that are misleading, inaccurate or laggy. I had a couple ordered from Amazon in the past that showed me all sorts of inaccuracies in temperatures, fluid levels etc.

Personally, I am very happy with Carly' solution (it's software + OBD2 for about 100$) as it gives you the possibility to request regeneration just as if the car did it itself when needed (along with other things of course, such as coding or scanning for issues etc.). Yes, it is true that it can show grams for the DPF, but it can also show pressure before and after the particulate filter (although I've got no idea what the latter's benchmark values are). I've familiarised myself with the former, but it is car-specific. For instance, in my Dooper (63 plate 1.6 R56), I know that it's time to take it for a ride and clean the DPF at about 14-16 grams. In an ideal world, one should see if the car has requested regeneration (that is Regeneration status 4.00), so that you don't need to request it yourself but you see if it needs one and you just take it for a spin. However, I'm doing it myself anyway if it gets to that level. So far I haven't had any problems, but I cannot guarantee or suggest that to another member, as it's literally a "do it at your own risk" situation. I do, however, take Mike's recommendation for more frequent oil changes under consideration, and I'll do it every 6-8k miles or a year - whichever comes first - and monitor the oil levels frequently as well. In addition, I'll change the DPF filter at about 75k miles anyway.

Last, but not least, no matter if I requested the regeneration myself, or if the car did it, the regeneration window was always 14 minutes. Whether it's enough or not depends on multiple factors. I find that the best case scenario is constant speed at about 70 mph in 6th gear (i.e. lower rpms) for the whole duration, 'cause if you stop and start or are in a breaking/accelerating scenario (too much traffic) it won't work as well. It wouldn't work as well if you're thrashing it too, e.g. if you're doing 70mph at 4th gear. What I mean by "it won't work as well" is that it will regenerate, but it won't burn too much soot. For instance, if I do the regeneration "perfectly" (70 mph 6th gear no traffic), it goes from 15 grams of soot to about 2 grams easily in just 14 minutes. If not, it might go to 6-7 or even 10 (depending on how often it pauses the regeneration - as the window is always the same, 14 minutes; it's just the burning rate that changes depending on the driving circumstances).

According to RAC:

"[...] it should be possible to complete a regeneration cycle and clear the warning light by driving for 10 minutes or so at speeds greater than 40mph."

and, according to the MINI's manual:

"The cleaning process takes a few minutes to complete [...] ".

So, I don't think that it's unreasonable to do a regeneration in just 14 minutes. Of course, again, it depends on the driving circumstances, how blocked the DPF is, and the condition/age of the car as Mike said.


P.S. Using Cataclean every 4 months does help by the way (thanks Mike), and you can feel it in acceleration as well. Also, I did notice that the soot burning rate increases for about a month to a month and a half after using Cataclean. It may be the case that the burning rate increases with other brands too, but I haven't tested any other when measuring the car's regenerations.
Hi minimeD

Thanks for all infos.
You have BMW N47 1.6 D , or Peugeot ?
Dont know is 63 plate BMW engine.
Via Carly, DPF regen, can be done only while driving, or it can be done like force regen, on parking place?





Sent from my Mi 9T using Tapatalk
 

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Hi minimeD

Thanks for all infos.
You have BMW N47 1.6 D , or Peugeot ?
Dont know is 63 plate BMW engine.
Via Carly, DPF regen, can be done only while driving, or it can be done like force regen, on parking place?





Sent from my Mi 9T using Tapatalk
2013 will be the bmw n47 diesel and not the cheaper dpf filter options ie for the psa 1.6 hdi engines,, big price difference ie psa ones are a element and £120 bmw n47 is a lot more
 

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Will most likely to get pushed back and further back as they can't meet the target date nearer the time, unless the gov and private companies puts loads and loads £££££££££££.

Just look at the state of transport and trying to get that up to scratch, compare that with other countries with good reliable transports, how many years have they been trying?

Maybe, if someone from the Greenpeace party was Prime Minster!!!

what ever they do some people will win and some will lose i'm getting to that point ie another 15 years and will be looking for the door with no cars behind it lol...
 

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Discussion Starter #93
Hi minimeD

Thanks for all infos.
You have BMW N47 1.6 D , or Peugeot ?
Dont know is 63 plate BMW engine.
Via Carly, DPF regen, can be done only while driving, or it can be done like force regen, on parking place?





Sent from my Mi 9T using Tapatalk

Hi Xenon,

As mike said it's the BMW one. Carly can only force regen en route. What I basically do (if it's close to needing a regen and I wont do any highway trips for a while) is take it for a spin down the A3 that has at least 14 minutes od highway drive, and either before I get to the highway or some parking spot along the highway, I press the regen function and when all conditions are met (i.e. engine at temperature and mph>40) it starts automatically and lasts 14 minutes sharp.

Hope this helps!

Best,
M
 

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Thanks minimed

I am on holiday trip, and for the first time , i have DPF warning massage on the screen.I just hope, i can drive it to my home, next 300 km.
Just do not know what to do, not to stop , on the road.


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Thanks minimed

I am on holiday trip, and for the first time , i have DPF warning massage on the screen.I just hope, i can drive it to my home, next 300 km.
Just do not know what to do, not to stop , on the road.


Sent from my Mi 9T using Tapatalk
i would keep going and it should hopefully force it to regen as long as no fault codes in ecu form any faults, long run should clear it over 2000 revs etc
 

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Thanks minimed

I am on holiday trip, and for the first time , i have DPF warning massage on the screen.I just hope, i can drive it to my home, next 300 km.
Just do not know what to do, not to stop , on the road.


Sent from my Mi 9T using Tapatalk
i would keep going and it should hopefully force it to regen as long as no fault codes in ecu form any faults, long run should clear it over 2000 revs etc
 

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Discussion Starter #97
Yeap, exactly as Mike said it will regenerate itself unless there's a fault (check with Carly if you have it alteady) and make sure that there's at least 50% of diesel in the tank. If you want of course you can request regeneration before you get to the high way (i.e. before you start your trip) and by the time you get to the highway it will automatically start. However, this is probably not needed given that a light means that it's quite full already so probably it has already asked regeneration, it's just that the conditions have not been met (i.e. no faults, >=50% gas in the tank, > 40mph) keep the speed constant when possible and at 2,000 revs or higher
 

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Hi to all.
I dont know if i have fault codes in ecu. At my return, will put more then 50% in tank, will drive it direct to Service Garage, min 2000 rpm for next 180km, and they will check, if some fault code is problem, or just Dpf , did not regenerate , because my driving style was bad.I had a mountain climb, and on the top of the mountaine, DPF massage was on.
Does DPF massage will gone, if it will regenete while i driving?


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Hi to all.
I dont know if i have fault codes in ecu. At my return, will put more then 50% in tank, will drive it direct to Service Garage, min 2000 rpm for next 180km, and they will check, if some fault code is problem, or just Dpf , did not regenerate , because my driving style was bad.I had a mountain climb, and on the top of the mountaine, DPF massage was on.
Does DPF massage will gone, if it will regenete while i driving?


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yes it will switch the light off if it an regen,, worth trying a 3k run for a hour if that dont work nothing will excpt sorting the issue with software and maybe new filter or delete it.
 

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Hi to all ( Mike, minimed, and others)
Yesterday, i have started my trip (270km),with DPF light on.After 50 km, DPF light is off, now i dont have DPF light.
Does it mean thet there was regen, or?
DPF Fault codes 480A and 481A, trigger DPF light on.Some say , after thet codes, regen is not possible,some say , after DPF light on, regen is possible, but without engine fault codes.






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