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Mini just wont start!

3698 Views 12 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  JTownPBX
I have a mcs 2010 r56 with the n18 engine.

When trying to start the car, i just get 1 or maybe 2 clicks and then nothing.

I have a brand new battery, i have replaced the starter motor.

What other options are left to check?

Thanks Matt
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have you tried putting a jump lead from neg side of battery to metal part on engine ie gives it another earth if then starts you know its a earth issue, would be my first try
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have you tried putting a jump lead from neg side of battery to metal part on engine ie gives it another earth if then starts you know its a earth issue, would be my first try
Just tried this and it didnt work. Thanks for the input.
as you have clicks and starter is new and battery is new would suspect its a live cable problem the live from battery goes direct to starter so would check the terminal on battery and the where cable joins the battery as well might find have a issue with that point or the point where joins to solenoid on starter ,, would also check battery is fully charged and not gone flat for some reason first,, 12.8volts is fully charged on new battery 12.6v on used one is fine, also leave meter on the battery while trying to start the car if voltage drops off below 12.2volts then faulty battery or flat,,, just because have a new battery at some point should never take for granted its charged or there maybe a discharge fault
N18 engine spells IBS system to me. The battery has to be re assigned to the computer or something. from what I have been told.
If no IBS system is in place I would take Voltage meter and check the
connection for power while someone presses the start button and presses on the brake at the same time you should have 11v. or something like. If not the connection is bad. if so then the new starter which is not uncommon is bad or not working with your setup.

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When dealing with any of these issues I have found that yes. One can take out the other when you introduce a new one of the three into the mix (Alternator,starter,battery).
Your new battery can go when you put a new starter on it. Your alternator can go when you put a new battery on it. Your battery can go when you put a new alternator on it. And any mix of any of those. Can cause one or the other or all three to go out. whether they are new or not.
It's a touchy area to work on. Working with a local parts store makes it a bit easier, at that point you can return the alternator or starter or battery in a matter of minutes.
If you know you vin code on your car and know how people that order batteries for the store front stock because they specialize in selling car batteries. Then you would be able to find a mini cooper battery for your car. There are dozens of different types of batteries for mini cooper. there are a whole assortment just for the R56. It's comes down to a model specific battery more than just a R56 battery.
Now even though it can turn into a wildfire of sorts when dealing with a modern electronic area. What's said is said when you decide to introduce those idea's. Meaning it can be nothing other than.
those three items. provided you did not mess with any wiring. That is where it stops. Because it is a modern car. To question other things aside of that connection to the starter, that IBS 50 amp fuse or something like that, And the proper continuity of the Alternator, becomes a very very slim chance of occurring.
Here is a chart at this point I have to agree with Mike1967
Schematic Font Material property Parallel Technical drawing

These are where all your grounds on your car are located at. It MAY be something going on with all that. It would be more probably. But the starter is best bought genuine mini cooper and returned through the mail if it does not work off the bat. That happened to me once. If you get a off brand do that with your local parts store. Battery is the same way. Only a little harder seeing how it is a lot harder to find one model even vin specific. Dealership item is what it used to be back in 2010. Now in days it's more widely available. I don't imagine you have a Wal Mart there? they could probalby help that. But I went to a actual Battery store. Where they sell all types of batteries car batteries being a lot of there stock also.
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An update of this issue, currently the battery is holding a good charge, both the original and the replacement starter motors both work (I tested both outside of he engine to make sure)
As the starter motor was off the car, i tested the voltage on the live wire coming from the battery to starter motor. Again 12v or so flowing through.

Car still not start, all i get when everything is back in place, is a clicking noise which i can hear coming from the ignition. Anyone else had this issue? Should i just replace the ignition receiver?
Good afternoon, since the financial condition does not allow me to buy a Mini, and I only drove it in car driving games. But not the point, I traveled a little on the car and encountered more than one breakdown, and I know one thing, if I understood you correctly. turns the starter, that is, everything is in order with the engine, the problem may be either in the engine control unit, which does not correctly analyze the signal from the starter, or, as mentioned above, the problem with the wires or terminals, check the wires for breakdown, look at the contact of the terminal with the battery and starter, good luck fixing your mini
You need to get back with the inspection of the 50amp fuse on the IBS coming off the battery. That would require one to remove the plastic cowl shrouded over the battery.
You need to get back with the inspection of the 50amp fuse on the IBS coming off the battery. That would require one to remove the plastic cowl shrouded over the battery.
Should i disconnect the IBS on the battery o see if the var will start?

Where is the 50 amp fuse for the IBS?
It should be hanging off the positive battery terminal. I think it is a 50 It could be a 150. I do not have the IBS system. But I have looked for it in my car. You have to take off the plastic shroud (cowl) over the battery to access it. But I do know they came out with the IBS system like a year after my car 2009 or something.
And as I was typing to other threads. Sometimes connections have to be removed and redone.
I just responded to another thread. From the overflow of others having start issues.
This was my re fined response at the tail end of this thread I just responded to.
It is important in the cold and windy type weather. And it is surprising as I actually never thought about it.
Until my other car went to a mechanic for it. That was literally all he did to get that car to start.
I paid him 200 U.S. after it was said and done. Either way it is good practice to do all available ground connections in this way.
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Ok, so the starter motor is good, i have cleaned connection to the starter motor just for good measure.

What i have noticed is the car is beginning to crank, however i can hear a clicking sound from the driver footwell (Steering wheel on the right), i am not able to pinpoint where this is coming from, whether is from the clutch or fuse box, im not sure!
During a start procedure I have also heard a clicking sound before. Although it was high pressure fuel pump sound a audible tick,tick,tick,tick! timed sound.
Beginning to crank meaning it aborts halfway through the elapsed duration after pressing the start button?
At any rate here is the second tier of electronics wiring diagram to go with that N18. Sense you do have a starter cranking.
Schematic Font Rectangle Parallel Pattern

Is it a plastic type sound clicking? If so.. I would jack up the car over on the crank shaft side of things. remove the spark plugs, and rotate the crankshaft. And listen for a plastic type sound if I could as I rotate the engine in the clockwise direction only!
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