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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2010 mini clubman one with the N16 engine the n16 engines are a later version of the n12 16 1.6 vti psa engine ie prince, a few differences on these engines first oil pump is ecu controlled has a electronic pressure control valve inside the sump and side of oil pump , it also has a ecu controlled water pump like early turbo cars did, all the head and block are very much same except for a extra hole for the oil pump wires, all valves are same as n12 16 engines , all the pistons are the same and conrods and crankshaft is same,, this car has 79k on the clock and full bmw service history 2 owners mountain of paperwork spent over the years etc, timing chain looks to be factory and is stretched hence engine damage,, ie running to hot and heat has leaned out and valve seat has left the cylinder head and broken up most likely why its gone south .. all repairable will take head to machine shop where new seats and stem guides will be fitted and the head will be repaired on the surface ,,

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
seen way to many of these do this trick over the years this one was just a failure of the valve seat ring maybe at factory was not put in right, or prob find the injector on that port is at fault most likely ie if it leaned out due to faulty injector will cause it,, i've repaired many like it its fixable the old guys i use are old school will post the pics of head when repaired as long as it passed pressure testing of course, the owner told me it needs a new engine full stop as his polish mechanic told him,, as crack was jammed solid ,, pulled all pistons out now crank turns nice and is perfect zero wear on the bearings etc, reason it was solid locked was the top of piston was so bad damaged by the metal from valve seat it had misshaped the top of it,, the bore is perfect, all this is the norm with these engines and when fixed its off again for another 80k or so , i put brake cleaner in all the other ports and all held it no other valve leaks so good sign it was not over heated at some point,
 

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Mini Cooper, 2008, Manual
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seen way to many of these do this trick over the years this one was just a failure of the valve seat ring maybe at factory was not put in right, or prob find the injector on that port is at fault most likely ie if it leaned out due to faulty injector will cause it,, i've repaired many like it its fixable the old guys i use are old school will post the pics of head when repaired as long as it passed pressure testing of course, the owner told me it needs a new engine full stop as his polish mechanic told him,, as crack was jammed solid ,, pulled all pistons out now crank turns nice and is perfect zero wear on the bearings etc, reason it was solid locked was the top of piston was so bad damaged by the metal from valve seat it had misshaped the top of it,, the bore is perfect, all this is the norm with these engines and when fixed its off again for another 80k or so , i put brake cleaner in all the other ports and all held it no other valve leaks so good sign it was not over heated at some point,
My guess Mike1967 before the valve seat dropped out the engine would have been misfiring at idle while hot. The damage to the head doesn't look too bad. My partners mini cylinder head suffered more peppering due to the valve seat pieces moving through the inlet manifold and passing over each piston, causing surface damage to the piston crowns and the chambers. Think we need to get the message out that the n12/n16 variants do demonstrate an early warning of valve seat failure through the hot idle misfire and if taken seriously subsequent damage can be prevented through early intervention - i.e., head off and off to the machine specialists.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
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My guess Mike1967 before the valve seat dropped out the engine would have been misfiring at idle while hot. The damage to the head doesn't look too bad. My partners mini cylinder head suffered more peppering due to the valve seat pieces moving through the inlet manifold and passing over each piston, causing surface damage to the piston crowns and the chambers. Think we need to get the message out that the n12/n16 variants do demonstrate an early warning of valve seat failure through the hot idle misfire and if taken seriously subsequent damage can be prevented through early intervention - i.e., head off and off to the machine specialists.
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totally agree with you done many like this , i sent head in today to be sorted new guide new seat weld the head and skim it will go again for sure the piston like yours got mushroomed on the top and when got the car the crank was rock solid , last owner kept telly me,,,, i'm telling you it needs a whole new engine etc,, I owned the bores today and they are perfect the crank is really nice and shiny and bearing are like new, the n12 16 engines the pistons and rods and bottom is same as the lci n16 as this one is n16 engine, head will cost be £165 I put a lot of work their way so get good rates plus I always pay in cash lol, rarely they do n the inlet valve seats normally its exhaust ones as get hotter,, i suspect the injector on that cylinder is faulty or timing chain so stretched most likely that was first one to give in,, this car has 79k on clock on factory chain,, if was chain done at 60k they would still be driving it i would suspect,, the joys of running engines at to hot by design me thinks adds to it for sure,
we have been hearing of the new cooper s jcw 2.0litre engines and when mapped they block the block and liners just goes to show its all to stressed thats a bmw own engine as well they use it in the 145im bmw I drove one the other day mapped dangerous ,, also been seeing a few tfsi vag engines not making it early as well
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
got it all sorted now after rebuilding had to strip sump off and replace the oil pump pressure release valve ,, bought one from psa not bmw ,, bmw wanted to sell a complete oil pump bought new one for £50 delivered link below
Petrol Oil Pump Solenoid Valve Citroen Peugeot Mini 1.6 THP - V764723880 RCZ 194982659841 | eBay
i also had a water leak found the link pipe still leaking cured this by super glue the o-ring to the tube then added sealant to the end where plugs in to the rear of water pump housing ,,, car started first hit, reved at 1100 revs for 4 minutes then reduced to 800 ish and rock steady i also while running pulled oil filler cap off and zero crankcase fumes so rings have worked well ,, gave it a good hard rev car went straight back to idle no dip no hunting around etc so think so far all good , not bad for a engine that last owner said other garages had told him its ruined fit a new one, still has some slight tappets noises that will go after it gets to running temps and gets driven a bit,, and these engines are noisy compared to most things
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
today spent another hour on it and had it running at 3000 revs stationary while on axle stands put some heat and pressure in it see what I really got, until water leak and cracked thermostat housing presented its self with some steam and water out the bottom ,, at this point I knew why it had dropped a valve seat in first place ,, it goes like this owner drives car car looses water by time light comes on dash engine already well over 130c in the head if not more, this over heat expands the head more than the hard valve seats and they start dropping up and smash a piston or two, worst one like this was 8 seats on back of valves , this one only nailed one ,, ordered a new latest version of thermostat housing made by febi bilsteen with vat was £70, apart from that it runs perfect steady idle and after this latest run zero tap noises timing chain is silent cant hear it running now on idle , got 180psi on all 4 cylinders when hot and oil pressure 70psi when hot ,,
once again guy I bought it off when I asked him a direct question ie my words were has it been cooked or over heated or boiled ,,, his direct answer to my direct question was ho no it just started misfiring and stopped ,, bare in mind I bought it with cylinder head off and in the boot etc, and when buying like that i always buy it at the money that fitting another engine is within the costings of its end worth when buying one,
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
car all sorted now running sweet starts first hit on button straight to 1100 revs when cold then after 3 minutes reduces to 750 revs ish and run live data on smooth running's and all on zero and happy lamda running around 0,7volts on closed loop sp all running how would expect, only noise i need to sort is some muppet put the wrong aux belt on it so the jockey wheel touches the bottom pulley edges and makes a metal noise when pump switches on and off as its a ecu piloted type, i had it running at 3000 revs for nearly a hour to day just to force the max heat and pressure through it after undone the oil filler cap and have zero crankcase breathing and plenty of clean oil still to camshafts really good sign that all is well again, and tomorrow it all starts again got a clubman cooper S turning up for engine refresh head off piston out t/chain stem seals etc,, and monday I have another cooper s turning up for same job another partial refresh then end of week got another one a mini one 1.4 for same work refresh ,, my goal is get done before xmas day lol as well as my normal days work,, been thinking in new year think i will be doing more and more of these jobs so anyone wanting it doing just private message me and see what can be done,, i also have access to a recovery guy who collect cars all over the country at a mileage charge or course,
 
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