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R56 2007 One 1.4 Petrol
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys I have ordered a Timing Chain tension tester to check the free play in the timing chain on my N12 engine. I can find information for the spec for the N14 and N18 engine, below 68 mm ok, above 68 mm replace the chain, should I use that spec for testing an N12 engine?.................Thanks in advance, I would be lost without this forum (y)
 

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yes its same on all engines, same chains same guides same sprockets ,later genuine timing chain kits have a longer tensioner as a up date hmmm more like bmw kicking the can up the road few miles, rule of thumb 60,000 miles do timing chain kit wont go far wrong, the trouble is when they are worn enough to effect how the timing is ie funs retarded for a long amounts of time this hurts other parts and mpg goes south as well as foot is longer on the loud medal when running retarded harder for it to rev etc,
 

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R56 2007 One 1.4 Petrol
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hi Mike, I just wanted to check it, when I purchased the car the previous owner said the timing chain had been done 5000 miles before, so now its about 40,000......If it was changed. No rattle does around 40 mpg average and drives really well, I always thought it seems to have more power than 95 bhp
 

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its only 1.4 n12 14 on the later cars LCI they stick the n16 engines in the mini one's i got one at mo in bits with valve seat failure thats a detuned 1.6 and is 96bhp might just drop the 1.6 map file on to ecu should be 130bhp ish after that , the 1.4 n12 14 engines are at limits already I think,
 

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R56 2007 One 1.4 Petrol
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Update....installed the tester, but being able to tighten it to the specified 0.6nm is not possible as I do not own a torque wrench that goes that low, so tightening the rod by hand wearing disposable gloves it reads 58 mm, any idea how or a guide to tightening to 0.6 nm ?
 

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Update....installed the tester, but being able to tighten it to the specified 0.6nm is not possible as I do not own a torque wrench that goes that low, so tightening the rod by hand wearing disposable gloves it reads 58 mm, any idea how or a guide to tightening to 0.6 nm ?
just use the spring tensioner removes all risk of to much or not enough, you must use a 27mm spanner to hold camshaft perfectly still when doing up cam bolts,DO NOT USE THE CAM LOCK TOOLS TO HOLD CAMSHAFT WHEN DOING UP THE TORX STRETCH BOLT AS WIIL NEVER TIME RIGHT WITHOUT THAT,
i have been doing them like this for years now and never get any issues with it ,, also must on rotate the crank clockwise when setting it and rechecking the timing before doing the last part of stretch bolts
 

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R56 2007 One 1.4 Petrol
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hi Mike, a little confused with your reply, I was talking about using the tester to check the free play in the timing chain.
 

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R56 2007 One 1.4 Petrol
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Lol no problem, I have decided to just go ahead and change the timing chain, do you have to put the front end in service mode, to change the chain?
 

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I'd just fit the timing tools, if out then change it,
 

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the tool you've been talking about generally comes in a timing tool kit, so if you have the tools to fit over the cams and can see that the service gap between them or them and the head exceeds spec then timing is out isn't it, if timing is out it reflects either incorrect setting at some point or most likely actual chain wear, so imo just change it rather than counting millimetres ;O) If the tool you have wasn't in a kit, get a kit, because you're likely going to end up doing the chain anyway:unsure:
 

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R56 2007 One 1.4 Petrol
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks exclusive, yes I have the full kit, so I will change it anyway as it can't hurt, does the front need to go into service mode to do the job, it the non-turbo type n12 engine
 

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I would ;O)
 

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Thanks exclusive, yes I have the full kit, so I will change it anyway as it can't hurt, does the front need to go into service mode to do the job, it the non-turbo type n12 engine
not to do a timing chain no would not, if pulling head off then yes makes life easier
 

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R56 2007 One 1.4 Petrol
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks Mike, I could not see the advantage of putting the front in Service Mode :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
On a different subject, I am going to remove the Sump just in case there are any bits floating about, from the previous time the chain was changed, and I have managed to get an Elring sump gasket Elring 387.880 Junta, cárter de aceite : Amazon.es: Coche y moto would I still need to use RTV sealant?
Also found a magnetic Sump plug replacement at a good price, if anyone wants the heads up Tornillo del cárter de aceite, Akozon tornillo de tapón de drenaje de aceite magnético Modificación de aleación de titanio(M16 x 1.5) : Amazon.es: Coche y moto
 

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On a different subject, I am going to remove the Sump just in case there are any bits floating about, from the previous time the chain was changed, and I have managed to get an Elring sump gasket Elring 387.880 Junta, cárter de aceite : Amazon.es: Coche y moto would I still need to use RTV sealant?
Also found a magnetic Sump plug replacement at a good price, if anyone wants the heads up Tornillo del cárter de aceite, Akozon tornillo de tapón de drenaje de aceite magnético Modificación de aleación de titanio(M16 x 1.5) : Amazon.es: Coche y moto
there is no sump gasket on these its all sealed with sealant and must clean off surfaces with brake cleaner just before adding the sealant
 

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R56 2007 One 1.4 Petrol
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Hi guys one last question, and I do appreciate all the advice you have given. I ordered a timing chain set that is supposed to contain everything......and I have found it does not include a new crankshaft sprocket or bolt.....And I am having a real problem finding them separately, can I get away with using the original sprocket and bolt?.....Hope so!
 

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Absolutely do not re-use the crank bolt - it's one-time use and the reason why I bought my R56 as a none-runner!
 
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