One thing I forgot to say I tried putting Seafoam through the crankcase breather hose. The first two codes above came up so cleared them and drove the car for an hour codes came back! Thanks
Mini one 1.4 90000 faults codes
Hi mini started to stall intermittently when stopping. Ran codes using autocom CDP + this is what came up. 2845 Vanos exhaust camshaft tight or jammed intermittent 2B68 Mass air flow sensor, plausibility fault intermittent 2891 Crankshaft / inlet camshaft , synchronisation permant Vanos inlet, flank adaptation permanent. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
1 - 20 of 27 Posts
timing chain/vanos/top chain guide snapped off. the 2B68 Mass air flow sensor, plausibility caused by seafoam entering the maf sensor, guess you used spray seafoam and did not just start pouring it in breather pipe i hope, i use spray in to air intake, and in crankcase ie add a can to the oil and run for a few miles,Hi mini started to stall intermittently when stopping. Ran codes using autocom CDP + this is what came up. 2845 Vanos exhaust camshaft tight or jammed intermittent 2B68 Mass air flow sensor, plausibility fault intermittent 2891 Crankshaft / inlet camshaft , synchronisation permant Vanos inlet, flank adaptation permanent. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
would do a compression test
oil pressure test
remove rocker cover have a lot at length of chain adjuster and see if top guide is ok, maybe worth buying a locking kit see where its timed.
its done well if on factory chain , but would think more likely needing its second one,
Hi Unfortunately poured in slowly about 125 mil read it on North American motering.com! Changed cylinder head gasket cover a month ago and checked top guide rail looked ok and had a new one to compare it to. Seemed fine!
you find that most of it will be at the bottom of the inlet box hopefully until you floor it then it will get sucked through the motor, i know on seafoams web page its says can do that and chances are it's fine,, me i always use the inlet spray engine running around 3000 revs and spray into the inlet pipe with air filter removed, or on turbo direct injection engines i will use the red long straw and poke it in to the inlet manifold and spray and slowly remove the pipe at same time then shut engine off mid flow leave to stand for over night allows it to soa in to the carbon dirt. i also remove spark plugs and spray with red tube the tops of pistons leave over night then next day crank engine with no plugs in first to clear any liquid to avoid stress the head gasket by engine trying to compress it,Hi Unfortunately poured in slowly about 125 mil read it on North American motering.com! Changed cylinder head gasket cover a month ago and checked top guide rail looked ok and had a new one to compare it to. Seemed fine!
this all said oil pressure test needs doing, just in case the jammed vanos codes is a lack of oil pressure to camshafts causing drag,
also chances are with 90k on it the oil control rings in the end camshaft journals have worn out and losing oil pressure causing the problem,, i believe there is a update parts from metal to carbon plastic main agent only parts,, will also need new camshaft stretch bolts can leave the bottom one where its too and just set timing off the cam shafts as such,
Hi Mike thanks for that, this sound above my capability! If I took your description to a desent mechanic would they understand and wroughly what would this cost me to sort out? I realised I missed off one code 2870 Vanos inlet flank adaptation Permanent. Many Thanks for you help.
only things you can try easy is changing the oil solenoids for vanos,Hi Mike thanks for that, this sound above my capability! If I took your description to a desent mechanic would they understand and wroughly what would this cost me to sort out? I realised I missed off one code 2870 Vanos inlet flank adaptation Permanent. Many Thanks for you help.
with autocom you can with the live data function make a list up of controllers etc and include vanos prescribed and actual positions this might give a glue to what is doing what on them, its a complicated system and to work on it need to start off with basics good oil new filter and clean vanos solenoid valves, at worst it might need chain kit with new vvt sprockets, FAI on ebay do good value kits for £225, the camshaft oil rings main dealer parts not that expensive £10-£30 i believe, sprocket bolts £3.29 each the last time i bought some, its the labour thats going to hurt i would guess, yep any garage would see what i have said and get the idea, this said if were me and sending to a garage let them diagnose it from start to finish,, then you always have a comeback with them,, rather than after they do half a job thinking the customer as ask us just to do xyz they then could blame you in some way by saying we only done what you told us to,, not a good way to deal with any garage
Hi Mike thanks for your advise. Followed it to the letter. All codes gone! Running better, slightly drop in rev when stopping but nothing like before. Ran flight recorder autocom result on Vanos inlet actual 0 to 122 same as specified, Vanos exhaust actual 0 to 122 same as specified. I have service history but no recipes so not sure when the chain was done but will keep an eye. When I drained the oil only 3 litres came out I thought I was keeping an eye on it, unless the seafoam I put in burnt it off? Over all engine sound good, many thanks again for your expert advise greatly appreciate. M
90,000 fault codes! I didn't realise there were that many things that could go wrong! :eeksurprise:
It felt like it!!!?
Update: l looked more closely at live reading I have from my autocom and found when moving along the graph of both the specified and actual positions of the inlet and exhaust Vanos I found both to be similar but there were spikes for example inlet specified 106 actual 120 or exhaust actual 68 specified 98 all were within max/mini range. Could this indicate The solenoid need replacing stil have slight wrought idel after reving the engines?
inlet specified 106 actual 120 that would indicate to me that the engine is running out of time by 14 degrees, need to pull the rocker cover off and have a look at chain tensioner plunger anything over 100m showing is worn chain, might even be vanos sprocket faulty or the oil control rings within the camshaft front journal,Update: l looked more closely at live reading I have from my autocom and found when moving along the graph of both the specified and actual positions of the inlet and exhaust Vanos I found both to be similar but there were spikes for example inlet specified 106 actual 120 or exhaust actual 68 specified 98 all were within max/mini range. Could this indicate The solenoid need replacing stil have slight wrought idel after reving the engines?
on autocom you can change the view from graphs to numbers numbers are better to read off,
exhaust actual 68 specified 98 is 30 degrees off and thats a lot, need t remove rocker cover gone south in there below is picks of screen shot on a 2008 1.4 mini with 55k on it and just had new chain kit i had fitted , notice the vanos settings
Attachments
-
49 KB Views: 190
the chances of both solenoids failing at same time very slim, as both exhaust and inlet vanos are off by those readings
Hi Mike
Thanks for your continued input will check over the weekend!
Thanks for your continued input will check over the weekend!
Hi Mike Update: Took cover off. Guides looked ok and chain was tight along the top and down by the tensioner. Ran Scan again this time start up to idel for 10 minuted then increased revs to 2000 for a couple of minutes then raised to 3000 as above then rev from idel to 3000 a couple of times. Looking at the numbers spot on until rev from idel to 3000 then 10/15 off specification. Is this the chain slipping or vanos solenoids not reacting quickly enough? Checked both of them front original part which was stopped in 2009 exhaust solendion first produced 2015.
Also now found oil at bottom of bell housing just by the hole. No visible route from above could that be the rear main seal leaking? Many thanks M
Also now found oil at bottom of bell housing just by the hole. No visible route from above could that be the rear main seal leaking? Many thanks M
how much of the tensioner can you see ie the plunger inner part, measure from the body of tensioner to tip of its plungerHi Mike Update: Took cover off. Guides looked ok and chain was tight along the top and down by the tensioner. Ran Scan again this time start up to idel for 10 minuted then increased revs to 2000 for a couple of minutes then raised to 3000 as above then rev from idel to 3000 a couple of times. Looking at the numbers spot on until rev from idel to 3000 then 10/15 off specification. Is this the chain slipping or vanos solenoids not reacting quickly enough? Checked both of them front original part which was stopped in 2009 exhaust solendion first produced 2015.
Also now found oil at bottom of bell housing just by the hole. No visible route from above could that be the rear main seal leaking? Many thanks M
Hi Had to put top back on, wife need car! Did try to look at the Tensioner difficult to say as I did not measure it sorry!!
I have pics of that helps?
if you have pics of tensioer from the top looking down i can tell youI have pics of that helps?
1 - 20 of 27 Posts
- This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
MINI Cooper Forum
Join our Mini Cooper Forums to talk about your new Mini. From reviews, mods, accessories, reliability concerns and more, this Mini Owners Club is full of info!
Full Forum Listing
Recommended Communities
