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2009 Mini Clubman Cooper S, Grey/Black, 130,000miles!
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Wow, you are a hard worker! I'd love you to sort my Cooper S like this please...when you are able of course.
 

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Do they stop drinking oil once for good after piston rings replacement? Wish Mike that you live in my country. Also didn't konw that those heads can be rebuilt, mechanics told me heads on these aren't rebuildable.
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
Do they stop drinking oil once for good after piston rings replacement? Wish Mike that you live in my country. Also didn't konw that those heads can be rebuilt, mechanics told me heads on these aren't rebuildable.
yes heads are rebuildable can get all parts do them a lot,, only way you will get these engines to stopping using oil as much is catch can the breather system in such away that oil can run back to sump,, dont think anyone has found a away yet,, they use some oil by design,, will say its better than before and go through emissions super low, its funny how some garages have all these views and prob never even done one before get that a lot, parts for mini as shared with psa engines are fairly cheap,,, i think best engines out there are honda to be honest just so well made on all levels dont use oil unless are worn out,,, had a 300k civic in a while ago and was like a train from oil filler when out ,,, put can of seafoam in oil ran it for 100 miles and now its got no crankcase pressure just so well made all it was ,was sticky oil rings the engine flush cleaned that and resealed them and went through emissions again,,
the prince engine was made on a budget to emissions to power way of design i feel, and 4 years life span or 80k i would guess just out of warranty
 

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yes heads are rebuildable can get all parts do them a lot,, only way you will get these engines to stopping using oil as much is catch can the breather system in such away that oil can run back to sump,, dont think anyone has found a away yet,, they use some oil by design,, will say its better than before and go through emissions super low, its funny how some garages have all these views and prob never even done one before get that a lot, parts for mini as shared with psa engines are fairly cheap,,, i think best engines out there are honda to be honest just so well made on all levels dont use oil unless are worn out,,, had a 300k civic in a while ago and was like a train from oil filler when out ,,, put can of seafoam in oil ran it for 100 miles and now its got no crankcase pressure just so well made all it was ,was sticky oil rings the engine flush cleaned that and resealed them and went through emissions again,,
the prince engine was made on a budget to emissions to power way of design i feel, and 4 years life span or 80k i would guess just out of warranty
Definitely agree those engines are made so cheap without durability in mind at all, only to go through warranty period (or financing period).
My use around 1L of oil every 2000km I think, sometimes more, sometimes less. It's 1.4 95hp. Although it seems that oil consumption broke CAT, black soot is visible on bumper above exhaust pipe.
Also it has code 002b68 MAF plausability, that comes on and turns on engine light for few days, then shuts it off and that happens again from time to time. Garage replaced both upstream and downstream O2 sensor with no luck. Now I did software update at BMW specialist and it doesn't have code for 3 days now, although I think it will come up again...

Definitely agree Honda engines are best... Although I like Ford ones too, didn't skip a beat for me even once; I'm currently driving Ford. Mini is in family car. Next car will be again Ford or Honda for me for sure. I can't stand crappy engineering that bends you over and takes you money out of pocket.
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
think the ford 1.8 tdci engines in fords are good but let down by this silly wet belt lower timing on them as ford say 150k replace they barely make 100k is common,, the older pre 2007 engines had a chain on the lower crank to fuel pump shared sprocket to cam belt,,, mate of mine got a 3 year old ford ranger 3.2 diesel it spends its ife towing car trailer doing 50k per year, gets monthly oil changes etc thats on 180k he just had a injector failure when it dumps all the fuel in to that cylinder and breaks the piston ,, £8k he just rebuilt the motor common fault with piezo injectors,, i've see many ford eco boosts with belt failures as they also run in oil ie wet belt,, same old thing designs that if know they are there and know what they do you can plan around it,, most of ford diesel in EU are in fact psa HDI engines volvo ford mini few others use them
 

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think the ford 1.8 tdci engines in fords are good but let down by this silly wet belt lower timing on them as ford say 150k replace they barely make 100k is common,, the older pre 2007 engines had a chain on the lower crank to fuel pump shared sprocket to cam belt,,, mate of mine got a 3 year old ford ranger 3.2 diesel it spends its ife towing car trailer doing 50k per year, gets monthly oil changes etc thats on 180k he just had a injector failure when it dumps all the fuel in to that cylinder and breaks the piston ,, £8k he just rebuilt the motor common fault with piezo injectors,, i've see many ford eco boosts with belt failures as they also run in oil ie wet belt,, same old thing designs that if know they are there and know what they do you can plan around it,, most of ford diesel in EU are in fact psa HDI engines volvo ford mini few others use them
I drive old Zetec SE 1.4 in Fiesta... no problem at all with it. I really didn't hear 1.0 EcoBoost has problems with timing belts (thank you for info, something to look for) I though of buying 1.0 140hp Fiesta in year or more as new run around as I drive mostly in city.
Didn't know 1.8 TDCi has timing belt. My old man drives mk3 2.0 TDCi Mondeo with timing chain, that engine is very solid, though it kills DMFs in city (on 3rd clutch set now) 230k km, it doesn't use oil at all.
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
that 2.0 tdci engine is a Peugeot HDI engine and fairly bullet proof. ford went backwards on the 1,8tdci engines when they decided to use wet cambelt for the lower half of the timing arrangement ,, bmw are doing same trick in the 3 cylinder engines that are shared with PSA cars,, not a good idea in my book have seen many failures and when do its end of motor,,
i had one of the best cars bmw ever built in today 525tds 2003 manual gearbox only had 77k on clock,, been in a barn for 6 years we stuck a battery on it and it fired up and drove back the workshop 10 miles and never missed a beat and still sounded like new unlike all this low emissions crap we have today,, that engine i have had one with over 300k on it and every mile past 100k i beat it everywhere and car trailers on it most of the time,,, just fed it diesel and services
 

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that 2.0 tdci engine is a Peugeot HDI engine and fairly bullet proof. ford went backwards on the 1,8tdci engines when they decided to use wet cambelt for the lower half of the timing arrangement ,, bmw are doing same trick in the 3 cylinder engines that are shared with PSA cars,, not a good idea in my book have seen many failures and when do its end of motor,,
i had one of the best cars bmw ever built in today 525tds 2003 manual gearbox only had 77k on clock,, been in a barn for 6 years we stuck a battery on it and it fired up and drove back the workshop 10 miles and never missed a beat and still sounded like new unlike all this low emissions crap we have today,, that engine i have had one with over 300k on it and every mile past 100k i beat it everywhere and car trailers on it most of the time,,, just fed it diesel and services
True those new emissions crap by EU makes unreliable cars imo (amd more expensive from start, not to mention as they pick up miles). Old mans Mondeo from 06' doesn't have even DPF. I told him, car isn't worth anything, just drive it untill wheels fell off. Car is in very good condition, drives like any modern stuff only with poorer plastics and more noise, though handling is better imo than modern Passat and others. Friend of mine had e36 325TDS from 92' it was bullet proof, fast for today standards... Bosch pump year ago killed it...
Those new 3 pot Bimmers do they guzzle oil also, like all BMWs? I'll never get car again that drinks oil by factory specs, it asks for trouble as it is getting old. (P.S. sorry mods fro offtopic, this is last one I promise)
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
True those new emissions crap by EU makes unreliable cars imo (amd more expensive from start, not to mention as they pick up miles). Old mans Mondeo from 06' doesn't have even DMF. I told him, car isn't worth anything, just drive it untill wheels fell off. Car is in very good condition, drives like any modern stuff only with poorer plastics and more noise, though handling is better imo than modern Passat and others. Friend of mine had e36 325TDS from 92' it was bullet proof, fast for today standards... Bosch pump year ago killed it...
Those new 3 pot Bimmers do they guzzle oil also, like all BMWs? I'll never get car again that drinks oil by factory specs, it asks for trouble as it is getting old. (P.S. sorry mods fro offtopic, this is last one I promise)
not off topic its a insight in to cars in general and shows others its not just mini that bad they all are ,,,. i had a E36 1996 bmw 325tds had it decat and mapped was just under 200bhp,, bought that with around 100k from main dealers as trade deal, drove it around to around 230k miles sold it to my mate he kept it for 4 years or more and he sold it around 300k to his mate,, it did have a clutch at 200k and did have high pressure fuel pump and injectors at 230k just before i sold it went through it made sure it was al good before selling it,, its also had all wheel bearings around 200k,, that car was beaten every day of its life from when i bought it back then i never done slow driving,, mainly B roads as well and lanes etc so hard life,
the vag 2.5tdi back then was good as well but not as strong as that 325d engine for bmw, the honda 2.2cdti engines are a throw back in design to this time when engines were designed to take a beating as customer demanded it,, where these days it does seem they are designed with a get out of jail free card for makers,,, ie they blame emissions laws my government's etc,
 

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not off topic its a insight in to cars in general and shows others its not just mini that bad they all are ,,,. i had a E36 1996 bmw 325tds had it decat and mapped was just under 200bhp,, bought that with around 100k from main dealers as trade deal, drove it around to around 230k miles sold it to my mate he kept it for 4 years or more and he sold it around 300k to his mate,, it did have a clutch at 200k and did have high pressure fuel pump and injectors at 230k just before i sold it went through it made sure it was al good before selling it,, its also had all wheel bearings around 200k,, that car was beaten every day of its life from when i bought it back then i never done slow driving,, mainly B roads as well and lanes etc so hard life,
the vag 2.5tdi back then was good as well but not as strong as that 325d engine for bmw, the honda 2.2cdti engines are a throw back in design to this time when engines were designed to take a beating as customer demanded it,, where these days it does seem they are designed with a get out of jail free card for makers,,, ie they blame emissions laws my government's etc,
True that is why I even hesitate to buy something new. All my pals have some problems with new stuff, especially DPFs and EGR on diesels, etc., since I live in city. I don't like to spent bunch of money on cars, they are nicked in city every few months so it is pointless. Mini is first unreliable car that I occasionally drive; I was shocked with problems; I knew they had problems, although tought how bad can it actually be!? (It's BMW, how can it be bad!?; oh was I wrong about BMWs in general 🤦‍♂️😄). What really makes you anxious is that you think that is always low on oil. Not to mention on hot summer days dip stick is useless; dip stick is very very hard to read.
Saw on forum here for error 002b68 MAF plausability, that no one solved. BMW specialist done software update on mine. I think It is solved, it done now 500km with no errors whatsoever. I replaced both O2 sensors with EPS brand before.
 

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update stripped engine all pistons out and head stripped found like usual valve stem seals had let oil run down to exhaust valve seats and cause misfires these misfires allowed unburnt fuel and air mix in to the cat and burnt a big hole through it,,, this failure is very common and with 90k on the clock was at mileage when this out come is always the same it seems the timing chain was stretched had 6mm left on the plunger the bottom sprocket the teeth are feathered like usual hence why at 60k you must do the bottom sprocket and chain and guides and tensioner ,, MUST ALWAYS REPLACE BOTTOM SPROCKET, pulled all the pistons the rings were like usual gone soft with over heated retarded running for 40k i would guess,, also in pics shows the head and before cleaned and after and shows how bad the exhaust valves get with carbon,, the bores were slightly worn but came back with a good hone,, will; add to this post as rebuild it back up with pics as well,
for reference i mark all pistons and direction and end caps as well,, i also keep all valves in same order as come apart, i mark all cam journals same way,,, i did stop short of naming all the bolts lol. View attachment 278919 View attachment 278920 View attachment 278921 View attachment 278922 View attachment 278923 View attachment 278924 View attachment 278925 View attachment 278926 View attachment 278927 View attachment 278928
hi mike are you using the special tool to set the valve springs , if so where did you get yours
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
do you mean valves springs or the vvt long finger springs, if valve springs i use a cheap china one works a treat i also use a dab of vaseline on the collets to make them stick to valve stem when putting them back in then use a sharp pokey tool to push both in place link below for valve spring compressor
as for the vvt springs i dont have the £299 tool for them i use a screw driver and a 12 inch lever bar with a groove cut out of it and push the spring inwards and on to back of bucket while flat ended screwdriver under the follower to stop the upright follower from dropping down ,, ie i undo the 2x 8mm black coloured bolts and the heavy plate that holds the middle post in place, i fix the springs first then work off that
pic below shows where the tip of springs must sit
first pic below shows wrong place for it to sit,,,,,
Automotive lighting Automotive tire Bumper Rim Bicycle part

BELOW PIC SHPWS CORRECT PLACEMENT IN THAT GROOVE
White Automotive lighting Automotive tire Audio equipment Gas
 

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do you mean valves springs or the vvt long finger springs, if valve springs i use a cheap china one works a treat i also use a dab of vaseline on the collets to make them stick to valve stem when putting them back in then use a sharp pokey tool to push both in place link below for valve spring compressor
as for the vvt springs i dont have the £299 tool for them i use a screw driver and a 12 inch lever bar with a groove cut out of it and push the spring inwards and on to back of bucket while flat ended screwdriver under the follower to stop the upright follower from dropping down ,, ie i undo the 2x 8mm black coloured bolts and the heavy plate that holds the middle post in place, i fix the springs first then work off that
pic below shows where the tip of springs must sit
first pic below shows wrong place for it to sit,,,,,
View attachment 282269
BELOW PIC SHPWS CORRECT PLACEMENT IN THAT GROOVE
View attachment 282271
thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
first off need to own a scanner that covers everything under £50 there is only one option will put a link below , without live data and be able to read all whats going on it impossible to repair these cars and you will end up throwing hundreds at parts trying to hit the right one ,, ie blind dog finds a bone one day approach not good way of repairing a car,
read on this link before the non turbo engine refresh shows what happens and how to tell, ie you need to know if you have a reactive fault or a sensor fault,, reactive is where there is a mechanical issue makes sensors react to it, most common on these engines around 80k is valve seats and piston rings and timing chain must be changed around 60k early better as they run retarded for to long will hurt other things like the cat and 02 sensors,, also cannot fit cheap 02 sensor genuine or NTK best i have found from some bitter moments where fit what you think should be ok to find its not
also they have stupid bmw oil control rings on pistons if doing the head should always change these to solid type,
below link best scan and code tool for the money you will find, looking around £800 for same as same autel or 2k for snap on
 

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first off need to own a scanner that covers everything under £50 there is only one option will put a link below , without live data and be able to read all whats going on it impossible to repair these cars and you will end up throwing hundreds at parts trying to hit the right one ,, ie blind dog finds a bone one day approach not good way of repairing a car,
read on this link before the non turbo engine refresh shows what happens and how to tell, ie you need to know if you have a reactive fault or a sensor fault,, reactive is where there is a mechanical issue makes sensors react to it, most common on these engines around 80k is valve seats and piston rings and timing chain must be changed around 60k early better as they run retarded for to long will hurt other things like the cat and 02 sensors,, also cannot fit cheap 02 sensor genuine or NTK best i have found from some bitter moments where fit what you think should be ok to find its not
also they have stupid bmw oil control rings on pistons if doing the head should always change these to solid type,
below link best scan and code tool for the money you will find, looking around £800 for same as same autel or 2k for snap on
thanks mike
 
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