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Discussion Starter · #61 ·
no thats low should be around 150psi on non turbo 190psi on turbo engine's ,, would make sure your battery is fully charged when doing compression tests and all plugs are out
 

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Discussion Starter · #63 ·
then would say you have a few issues to sort, first off need to do oil pressure test when its hot ie 104c as no point refreshing a engine that has bigger crankshaft issues ,, ie would need to pull engine to sort the crank,, i have got a very good crank is anyone needs one , I also got a low mile short motor I can rebuild for anyone , also got a good oil pump as well , in fact got loads of bits i hoard just in case ,, if oil pressure good then its a leave engine in care and pull front off pull head off sump off mark every for direction and which cylinder etc ,,MUST MARK EVERYTHING IT MUST ALL GO BACK THE SAME AS CAME APART, re ring it and do the head etc best way forward on that, if get stuck with doing head can post to me i'll sort it for £120 plus postage ie all valves out all cleaned re-lap the seats and fit new stem seals and put the vvt back together correctly ,,, but if needs valve guides then prob add another £100 to that ,, that said they dont tend to unless they have been run low on oil for some time ,, so when comes back its just stick on
 

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then would say you have a few issues to sort, first off need to do oil pressure test when its hot ie 104c as no point refreshing a engine that has bigger crankshaft issues ,, ie would need to pull engine to sort the crank,, i have got a very good crank is anyone needs one , I also got a low mile short motor I can rebuild for anyone , also got a good oil pump as well , in fact got loads of bits i hoard just in case ,, if oil pressure good then its a leave engine in care and pull front off pull head off sump off mark every for direction and which cylinder etc ,,MUST MARK EVERYTHING IT MUST ALL GO BACK THE SAME AS CAME APART, re ring it and do the head etc best way forward on that, if get stuck with doing head can post to me i'll sort it for £120 plus postage ie all valves out all cleaned re-lap the seats and fit new stem seals and put the vvt back together correctly ,,, but if needs valve guides then prob add another £100 to that ,, that said they dont tend to unless they have been run low on oil for some time ,, so when comes back its just stick on
hi mike ive stripped head lapped valves , one off exhaust seats is not flush but lapped ok, would this been like it from factory or has it moved since they were well carboned
 

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Discussion Starter · #65 ·
hi mike ive stripped head lapped valves , one off exhaust seats is not flush but lapped ok, would this been like it from factory or has it moved since they were well carboned
stick a picture of it , after lapped the valves and valves back in with out cam shaft in i pour petrol in ports and check if any leak a must do job before putting it back together
IMPORTANT AFTER DOING THIS YOU MUST SOAK THE PORTS IN OIL TO LUBRICATE THE VALVE STEMS AGAIN TO PREVENT THEM STICKING ON FIRST START UP, AS PETROL REMOVES THE LUBRICANT
 

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stick a picture of it , after lapped the valves and valves back in with out cam shaft in i pour petrol in ports and check if any leak a must do job before putting it back together
IMPORTANT AFTER DOING THIS YOU MUST SOAK THE PORTS IN OIL TO LUBRICATE THE VALVE STEMS AGAIN TO PREVENT THEM STICKING ON FIRST START UP, AS PETROL REMOVES THE LUBRICANT
one last question did you reuse big end bearings
 

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Discussion Starter · #67 ·
no always fit new ones , the 1.6cc engines are all the same bearings, the n12.14b ie 1.4cc engines are different size , the conrod bolts are genuine only £1.09p +vat each from bmw last time i bought 8 of them, as are stretch bolts,, the end caps are conrod matched so dont get them mixed up and as wont fit any other rod than the rod it cam off, and are directional
 

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no always fit new ones , the 1.6cc engines are all the same bearings, the n12.14b ie 1.4cc engines are different size , the conrod bolts are genuine only £1.09p +vat each from bmw last time i bought 8 of them, as are stretch bolts,, the end caps are conrod matched so dont get them mixed up and as wont fit any other rod than the rod it cam off, and are directional
hi mike ive done valves and reftted god thats a fiddly job now started on in take cams , my main cam is tight not turn freely
 

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Discussion Starter · #69 ·
hi mike ive done valves and reftted god thats a fiddly job now started on in take cams , my main cam is tight not turn freely
little tip with doing the collets on valves use Vaseline petroleum jelly on collet and with dry valve stem top it will stick the collect to the valve top while you use a small spike tool to locate it to its grooves and while release the compressor tool,, i got this down to a fine art 30 minutes to stick all valves back in head on a good day and over hour on a day where nothing wants to go right,
you need to check you have put all the camshaft journal caps back on where its meant to go they are numbered and are directional ,, for a baring of what end cap ie ref points are the two first cam journal caps have number and are the lowest number and only fit one direction so can get a ref off this for the rest,
 

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little tip with doing the collets on valves use Vaseline petroleum jelly on collet and with dry valve stem top it will stick the collect to the valve top while you use a small spike tool to locate it to its grooves and while release the compressor tool,, i got this down to a fine art 30 minutes to stick all valves back in head on a good day and over hour on a day where nothing wants to go right,
you need to check you have put all the camshaft journal caps back on where its meant to go they are numbered and are directional ,, for a baring of what end cap ie ref points are the two first cam journal caps have number and are the lowest number and only fit one direction so can get a ref off this for the rest,
found problem dowels are damaged ,prob where i was lapping valves going see if can turn them over or get 4 new ones,
cam bolts can be reused yes
 

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Discussion Starter · #71 ·
have you pics of the dowels I might have some i know i got 3 stripped n12 14b and n12 16 b engines where stripped the heads bare as heads were destroyed but all camshafts and caps etc and vvt were like new ,, when you put the hydro lifters back in before doing so you must squeeze them out in a vice or i use a pair of molgrips after this you will then know of any are faulty as they should have a light spring back to them ,, any that dont pop back up are dud normally as the spring inside can break or the wear to one side and oil pressure bleeds off and dont go hard ,, so when first start engine they will rattle like hell for a minute or two and just get better with use, if send me pics of what you need i might have it and it will be known to be good as well i dont keep anything thats not right
 

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Discussion Starter · #75 ·
so hard to explain hear goes, set cam so lobe is furthest away, i remove the thick top plate ie two 8mm bolts i then add the spring so its against the camshaft randomly do that single torx bolts up,, then i fit the upright follower ie where the spring fingers locate to that groove, i then put that top plate back on do it up so the upright follower is pushed in to its groove on that top plate and resting on the cam follower arm at bottom,, i then use a narrow lever bar with a groove cut in the end of it to locate on spring finger and push it inwards then to one side,,, while i hold the bottom of the up right outwards and up wards , take two minute after master this chain of events , break it down in to to do way forward if helps,
 

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hi mike has the oil pump got to be removed to change rings , if so ive filled pots with oil and if it doesn't drop is it fair to say rings ok
 
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