Might you possibly be a little late with the supercharger oil change?
1 - 5 of 5 Posts
I would save the money for this. THIS ITEM RIGHT HERE:
www.carid.com
This item is exactly why I wished I had a R53 and not a R56.
This item is self oiling. So that eliminates as outdates the supercharger
you have on there.
There is no other car out there with a bolt on mod for it. Aside of
mabey a K24 Honda engine that is gonna reward you this much; from a bolt
on mod without a remap.
Further more. This is about as cheap as a supercharger system money
can by for most cars; that is in fact better than O.E.M.
Without having the hassle of oiling it or maintaining to such a degree
This supercharger reminds me of making a R53 a natural asperated engine.
Though it is not. It will only have problems that a natural asperated
engine has after this upgrade.
197 horsepower Vs. What yours has in it now. Same day you bolt that on
power.
Then you don't need to take the outdated superchager in for maintenence.
If I were driving my Mini Cooper R53(if I had one)everyday.
Then I would just save the money for it. Unless I had some type of colleciton
where everything needs to be official.
As far as the problem with the sounds in the video. I would say it is
some sort of a vacuum leak. Combined with Hydrawlic push rods being old.
Something that is in need of a rebuild, At the very least a overhaul!
In doing that. One is more pleased with the process as they dig into it.
It becomes theraputic and AMSR like. Because as things are removed one
tends to find all the smaller parts that are in need of changing. So the
end results are learning what that problem really is in the end. And also
having a car that runs perfect when done. A sense of peace.
It takes tools time and pics for me to give a answer more in depth
than this. Some of the items need to be removed and the problem with a
picture more focused on.
Main thing I like to use on all immediate gaskets and O-ring that are
rubber is:
www.super-lube.com
That would be where I would start. Just removing things. Like the
valve cover. Inspecting different tolerances but most of all just that!
Putting the valve cover back on with O-ring grease. O ring grease the ends
of the vacuum hoses after inspecting them for cracks. Be insightful enough
to know that a vacuum connection that is loose and rotatable is how it is
suppose to be, but not to be fooled into thinking that it is acceptable
to have air coming out of the connection.
And just go around sealing up the intake system to the super charger.
Using O ring grease to start with. Eventually the main vacuum leak will
then still be leaking but with out interference of the other stuff.
Just shining all by itself. At that point I would order the correct part or
parts to replace that.
Stuff like Superlube o ring silicon grease is up there with zip ties,
brake cleaner,carburetor cleaner, etc. Just stuff that helps.
Sprintex® 246A1161 - S5-210 SPS Series Supercharger System
S5-210 SPS Series Supercharger System - Part Number 246A1161 by Sprintex. Available in Performance Department at www.carid.com
This item is exactly why I wished I had a R53 and not a R56.
This item is self oiling. So that eliminates as outdates the supercharger
you have on there.
There is no other car out there with a bolt on mod for it. Aside of
mabey a K24 Honda engine that is gonna reward you this much; from a bolt
on mod without a remap.
Further more. This is about as cheap as a supercharger system money
can by for most cars; that is in fact better than O.E.M.
Without having the hassle of oiling it or maintaining to such a degree
This supercharger reminds me of making a R53 a natural asperated engine.
Though it is not. It will only have problems that a natural asperated
engine has after this upgrade.
197 horsepower Vs. What yours has in it now. Same day you bolt that on
power.
Then you don't need to take the outdated superchager in for maintenence.
If I were driving my Mini Cooper R53(if I had one)everyday.
Then I would just save the money for it. Unless I had some type of colleciton
where everything needs to be official.
As far as the problem with the sounds in the video. I would say it is
some sort of a vacuum leak. Combined with Hydrawlic push rods being old.
Something that is in need of a rebuild, At the very least a overhaul!
In doing that. One is more pleased with the process as they dig into it.
It becomes theraputic and AMSR like. Because as things are removed one
tends to find all the smaller parts that are in need of changing. So the
end results are learning what that problem really is in the end. And also
having a car that runs perfect when done. A sense of peace.
It takes tools time and pics for me to give a answer more in depth
than this. Some of the items need to be removed and the problem with a
picture more focused on.
Main thing I like to use on all immediate gaskets and O-ring that are
rubber is:
O-Ring Silicone Grease | Super Lube
Using Super Lube Silicone Grease during installation helps protect an O-Ring from damage by abrasion, pinching, or cutting. View our O-Ring Silicone Grease selection.
That would be where I would start. Just removing things. Like the
valve cover. Inspecting different tolerances but most of all just that!
Putting the valve cover back on with O-ring grease. O ring grease the ends
of the vacuum hoses after inspecting them for cracks. Be insightful enough
to know that a vacuum connection that is loose and rotatable is how it is
suppose to be, but not to be fooled into thinking that it is acceptable
to have air coming out of the connection.
And just go around sealing up the intake system to the super charger.
Using O ring grease to start with. Eventually the main vacuum leak will
then still be leaking but with out interference of the other stuff.
Just shining all by itself. At that point I would order the correct part or
parts to replace that.
Stuff like Superlube o ring silicon grease is up there with zip ties,
brake cleaner,carburetor cleaner, etc. Just stuff that helps.
Thank you for all the replies so far.
Ideally it would have been done by now, but I bought the car from the original owner who had serviced it mainly at BMW. I've seen people recommend 60k and 100k intervals for the supercharger service. Fingers crossed it isn't too late.
Good to hear it doesn't sound too bad. I think I will change the belt and idle pulley first to see if that helps before touching the tensioner.
Thank you for all the tips. Newer supercharger is an interesting idea, although bit too expensive for now. Maybe in the future...I would save the money for this. THIS ITEM RIGHT HERE:
This item is exactly why I wished I had a R53 and not a R56.Sprintex® 246A1161 - S5-210 SPS Series Supercharger System
S5-210 SPS Series Supercharger System - Part Number 246A1161 by Sprintex. Available in Performance Department at www.carid.com
This item is self oiling. So that eliminates as outdates the supercharger
you have on there.
There is no other car out there with a bolt on mod for it. Aside of
mabey a K24 Honda engine that is gonna reward you this much; from a bolt
on mod without a remap.
Further more. This is about as cheap as a supercharger system money
can by for most cars; that is in fact better than O.E.M.
Without having the hassle of oiling it or maintaining to such a degree
This supercharger reminds me of making a R53 a natural asperated engine.
Though it is not. It will only have problems that a natural asperated
engine has after this upgrade.
197 horsepower Vs. What yours has in it now. Same day you bolt that on
power.
Then you don't need to take the outdated superchager in for maintenence.
If I were driving my Mini Cooper R53(if I had one)everyday.
Then I would just save the money for it. Unless I had some type of colleciton
where everything needs to be official.
As far as the problem with the sounds in the video. I would say it is
some sort of a vacuum leak. Combined with Hydrawlic push rods being old.
Something that is in need of a rebuild, At the very least a overhaul!
In doing that. One is more pleased with the process as they dig into it.
It becomes theraputic and AMSR like. Because as things are removed one
tends to find all the smaller parts that are in need of changing. So the
end results are learning what that problem really is in the end. And also
having a car that runs perfect when done. A sense of peace.
It takes tools time and pics for me to give a answer more in depth
than this. Some of the items need to be removed and the problem with a
picture more focused on.
Main thing I like to use on all immediate gaskets and O-ring that are
rubber is:
That would be where I would start. Just removing things. Like theO-Ring Silicone Grease | Super Lube
Using Super Lube Silicone Grease during installation helps protect an O-Ring from damage by abrasion, pinching, or cutting. View our O-Ring Silicone Grease selection.
valve cover. Inspecting different tolerances but most of all just that!
Putting the valve cover back on with O-ring grease. O ring grease the ends
of the vacuum hoses after inspecting them for cracks. Be insightful enough
to know that a vacuum connection that is loose and rotatable is how it is
suppose to be, but not to be fooled into thinking that it is acceptable
to have air coming out of the connection.
And just go around sealing up the intake system to the super charger.
Using O ring grease to start with. Eventually the main vacuum leak will
then still be leaking but with out interference of the other stuff.
Just shining all by itself. At that point I would order the correct part or
parts to replace that.
Stuff like Superlube o ring silicon grease is up there with zip ties,
brake cleaner,carburetor cleaner, etc. Just stuff that helps.
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