MINI R56 Cooper S 2009 Fault codes

12552 Views 10 Replies 3 Participants Last post by mike1967, Feb 11, 2021

B123

Discussion Starter · Feb 9, 2021

Hello All,
My MINI 2009 R56 has some issues at the moment, the fog lights have stopped working and also the break lights stay on constantly when the key is removed.

When the ignition is on, the break lights work as they should.

I recently got the battery replaced but this didn't help anything

Any ideas what I can try please?
Thanks all!

Error Codes:
Basic OBD2
P1631 (pending) (confirmed)
Engine:
2B22 - Throttle valve actuator pre-drive check, bank 2
Heater & air conditioning:
9C4A
9C75 - IHKA: undervoltage or overvoltage
E738
E72C
E72B
Traction/stability control:
5E31 - DSC: rear left wheel speed sensor faulty
5E30 - Lateral Acceleration Sensor Accident Recognition
D358 - No message (instrument cluster 784)
Airbags:
9408 - AHM: faulty right trailer brake light/direction indicator
93D0 - Undervoltage
Instrument cluster:
A3C1 - Lights module failure
A3B4 - CAN signal fault light system
A3B1 - CAN signal fault indicator
931D - KOMBI: system voltage
Steering column:
9E31 - VML converter error
Car access system (CAS):
A0C1
A0B3 - CAS: starter motor, terminal 50
Central module (in driver's footwell) (FRM):
A8C2 - Right reversing light faulty
A8C0 - Right rear fog light faulty
A8B9 - Left 1 brake light faulty
A8B3 - Rear right indicator light faulty
A8B0 - Front left indicator light faulty
A8AF - Right fog light faulty
A8AD - Right side marker light faulty
9CAB - A clamp 15 is missing
E594 - Steering angle timeout
9CB4
9CB3
9CC8
A8B6 - Right brake light faulty
Junction box (passenger) (JBBF):
A872 - Interior protection defect
A871 - Tilt sensor defect
C914
A733
C904 - K-CAN Line fault
C905

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mike1967

· #2 · Feb 9, 2021

someone put battery in wrong way around perhaps, as have codes from bcm and main dde might even be water ingress to bcm first place i would start,, maybe someone jump started car with leads wrong way around can cause so many codes at same time,, or water damage somewhere in passengers floor area

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B123

Discussion Starter · #3 · Feb 9, 2021

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B123

Discussion Starter · #4 · Feb 9, 2021

mike1967 said:
someone put battery in wrong way around perhaps, as have codes from bcm and main dde might even be water ingress to bcm first place i would start,, maybe someone jump started car with leads wrong way around can cause so many codes at same time,, or water damage somewhere in passengers floor area

Hello, funny you mentioned that, in the night the alarm went off, I went out and unlocked the car to stop the alarm but for some reason the break lights stayed on, so in the morning the battery was dead.
I jump started the car but connected the leads incorrectly to begin with, I think I connected the positive to the post on the engine and negative to the battery, big spark.
Could it be my problems are from my mistake, do have anything you recommend I get checked first or where to start?
Thank you

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JTownPBX

· #5 · Feb 10, 2021 (Edited)

Stuff like marker lights I had problems with. I kept buying bulbs for them.

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JTownPBX

· #6 · Feb 10, 2021 (Edited)

[QUOTE="JTownPBX, post: 4507673, member: 96417") check the wiring.

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mike1967

· #7 · Feb 10, 2021

B123 said:
Hello, funny you mentioned that, in the night the alarm went off, I went out and unlocked the car to stop the alarm but for some reason the break lights stayed on, so in the morning the battery was dead.
I jump started the car but connected the leads incorrectly to begin with, I think I connected the positive to the post on the engine and negative to the battery, big spark.
Could it be my problems are from my mistake, do have anything you recommend I get checked first or where to start?
Thank you

seen this a few times over the years , first need to see if got water ingress to passengers side flor well behind the side plastic is a module very common for this to get wet and cause what you had in first place,
the putting jump leads wrong way around hopefully has not spiked the ecu,, i would do a power latch reset on it next step then clear all fault codes with a scan tool link below for power latch

how to reset ecu,s power latch or power down for mini...

How to reset all ecu's this procedure is called a power latch firstly turn on the ignition not engine running,IE FOB IN DASH SLOT, TOUCH BUTTON UNTIL SEE DASH LIGHTS ON IE FUEL GAUGES ETC THIS IS IGNITION ON, THEN FOR IGNITION OFF TOUCH BUTTON ONCE THIS SWITCHES THE IGNITION OFF IE SAME...

www.mini2.com

.
after these resets you will know what you have ie major electric damage or not good luck

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B123

Discussion Starter · #8 · Feb 10, 2021 (Edited)

mike1967 said:
i would do a power latch reset
after these resets you will know what you have ie major electric damage or not good luck

Evening all, thanks for the replies and help today. I followed those steps you gave me mike to reset the ECU but unfortunately I still get many of the same errors as before

Something strange is happening with the throttle, it appears to be revving on its own, I recorded a small vid here:

The car does this randomly, sometimes when I start the car the engine idles as normal, and other times it does this fluttering idle, about 50% of the time.

When I rev the car high a lot of grey/slightly blue fumes come out the back, and a black dripping fluid, revving feels very sluggish.

Unfortunately the break lights still stay on permanently when the key is removed so im having to disconnect the battery each evening still... I have brought a new FRM unit to see if this sorts the issue.

Strangely, the fog lights now appear to work, but I have the fog light warning on the small dash as shown in the video.

I have checked almost all of the small fuses in the drivers foot well, is there any other fuses that anyone would recommend me checking?

JTownPBX said:
the main idea being that your footwell module may be going south but not completely. If you had blinker issues that would be another tell tale sign of a footwell module. Therefore replace the markers and brake lights and that might resuscitate the rest of the electrical system for now. Or at least put it in stasis.

A couple of you mentioned about getting the markers replaced, could I ask what you mean by this... do you mean just get the break light bulbs replaced? Also you mentioned about putting the FRM in stasis, what does this mean?

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JTownPBX

· #9 · Feb 10, 2021 (Edited)

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mike1967

· #10 · Feb 11, 2021

JTownPBX said:
That throttle can be your Maf sensor not being plugged in or bad.[sounds smooth running] If you put it in drive can you drive around or does it get more severe. That would come across as air leaks at the valve cover, fuel vent hose upper or lower, It sounds smooth with that irregular idle. Is there a back fire every so often around 1500 rpm? I say that because the idle is high, and that can work tandem with 1500 rpm backfire. High pressure fuel pump problem.
I would check for leaks and check the throttle body with the air filter tubes removed. Having one person start the car while the other person is looking at the throttle body(when the key is put in and pressing start then turning off of course after) for the butterfly's complete range of motion it should be a swift throttle choke procedure that it does. Swift, without the start button even pressed, I don't think. and don't try to put your fingers in there when it does. If the butterfly is real slow in opening or closing then your throttle body is bad. either way something that does not cost anything.
I would check for air leaks. namely the lower hose to the intake manifold making sure it is connected. And in the big picture removing the upper hose from the intake manifold and pushing the sleeve back checking it for cracks. That does not cost any money, you just have to remove the intake manifold. and make sure your vacuum lines are secured back there.
So there's that. Smooth running I would feel relieved about the condition of the engine at this point.
what that marker thing "sorry!". I thought you had marker lights. As in the scan codes you gave. marker right side faulty is the blinker light two in one. You do have a blinker light problem as more evidence builds on the idea of the foot well module.
I would still try to replace that connector and even it up to just a indicator issue. something like this maybe just the one on the right side. they are cheap enough. and like Christmas lights replacing one faulty light socket circuit, can bring the rest back to life to some extent. I don't think it would with all you codes

Bulb Socket: Side Marker

www.outmotoring.com

either way that what that looks like to me faulty socket on that code.

UK cars dont have marker lights

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mike1967

· #11 · Feb 11, 2021

B123 said:
Evening all, thanks for the replies and help today. I followed those steps you gave me mike to reset the ECU but unfortunately I still get many of the same errors as before

Something strange is happening with the throttle, it appears to be revving on its own, I recorded a small vid here:

The car does this randomly, sometimes when I start the car the engine idles as normal, and other times it does this fluttering idle, about 50% of the time.

When I rev the car high a lot of grey/slightly blue fumes come out the back, and a black dripping fluid, revving feels very sluggish.

Unfortunately the break lights still stay on permanently when the key is removed so im having to disconnect the battery each evening still... I have brought a new FRM unit to see if this sorts the issue.

Strangely, the fog lights now appear to work, but I have the fog light warning on the small dash as shown in the video.

I have checked almost all of the small fuses in the drivers foot well, is there any other fuses that anyone would recommend me checking?

A couple of you mentioned about getting the markers replaced, could I ask what you mean by this... do you mean just get the break light bulbs replaced? Also you mentioned about putting the FRM in stasis, what does this mean?

frm will need code, would never run a cooper s with no maf connected will melt it down ie unmeter air and fuel flow really not good for it bad idea. need to do live data run and see what the percentage is on the throttle body and throttle pedal ie they should match from stop to stop , will need something on main dealer evel for diagnostics tool autocom cdp plus will let you do this and under £50 to buy ,, or could use bmw insta d link below for autocom

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