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Discussion Starter #1
Good day mini drivers,
I am in process of changing valve stem oil seals without removing head,
I have managed to remove spring cap and keepers, and replace seals, but a bit stuck putting it back.
I have used one of the impact tools with magnet, when you compress the spring and keepers get attached to the magnet and it releases the spring, tried to put it back and it did not worked.
My question is if anybody attempted to do same job without removing head and also what kind of tool they used.
 

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Good day mini drivers,
I am in process of changing valve stem oil seals without removing head,
I have managed to remove spring cap and keepers, and replace seals, but a bit stuck putting it back.
I have used one of the impact tools with magnet, when you compress the spring and keepers get attached to the magnet and it releases the spring, tried to put it back and it did not worked.
My question is if anybody attempted to do same job without removing head and also what kind of tool they used.
need clean no oil on valve recesses for collets,, then use Vaseline petroleum jelly on each collect this will secure them long enough to the top of valve to release them, i made up a tool years ago with a welder and a old spring compressor tool that can be bolted to the head. even with this its a faff of a job sometimes, magnet tool only ever works when head off and can stick it to the valve end of valve from past experience
 

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Discussion Starter #3
When you do change chain, would you also change the crankshaft seals (2)? my mini is 2007 and they are made from metal or something, and new ones looks like plastic or rubber? part number 11 31 7587757
 

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When you do change chain, would you also change the crankshaft seals (2)? my mini is 2007 and they are made from metal or something, and new ones looks like plastic or rubber? part number 11 31 7587757
they very rarely fail or leak but when they do it causes the vanos sprocket to lose oil pressure and cause timing issues. main agent only part,
 

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Discussion Starter #5
they very rarely fail or leak but when they do it causes the vanos sprocket to lose oil pressure and cause timing issues. main agent only part,
Mike thanks for replay, looks like you know a lot about minis, I have been following the tutorial how to set timing, and end-up with 2.3 degree off, I think due tot he not putting much preload on tensional tool, not sure what 0.6Nm is,, my torque wrench lowest is 10Nm, . If I want to set timing again, do I need to buy new bolds again or can reuse them?

the timing chain tool i have been using is Laser TOOLS LAS6814 6814 Timing Chain Locking Kit PSA/BMW 1.4/1.6 Petrol
 

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Mike thanks for replay, looks like you know a lot about minis, I have been following the tutorial how to set timing, and end-up with 2.3 degree off, I think due tot he not putting much preload on tensional tool, not sure what 0.6Nm is,, my torque wrench lowest is 10Nm, . If I want to set timing again, do I need to buy new bolds again or can reuse them?

the timing chain tool i have been using is Laser TOOLS LAS6814 6814 Timing Chain Locking Kit PSA/BMW 1.4/1.6 Petrol
yep new bolts must do/
the preload on the chain tool can be set without a torque wrench by turning the preset tool to mimec the spring tensioner force, also must use 27mm thin spammer to hold cam shafts while tightening the bolts other wise they will more NEVER RELIE ON THE TOP CAM TOOLS TO HOLD CAMSHAFTS IN PLACE DOING UP STRETCH BOLTS, USE SPANNER AS WELL
always before tightening up the sprockets with the stretch degrees ie set all bolts with 20nm to hold them bear in mind all surfaces the sprockets sit on must be grease oil free, so crank set at 40nm cams at 20nm, timing set with preload tool remove preload tool insert the spring tensioner then rotake engine by hand 4 times,,, then relock the engine with the spring tensioner inserted it should all lign up with no foce needed if dont timing is out still reset recheck keep doing it untill its perfect, after this insert the pretenion tool and do all the bolts up to the stretch degrees, ie 40nm 120degrees on crank, 20nm 180 degrees on cams , start with the crankshaft bolt, then exhaust cam then inlet thats how i do them always get them first time these days, early days tried loads of different ways got mix results,, YOU MUST HAVE 27MM SPANNER TO HOLD CAMSHAFTS DONT EVEN TRY IT WITH OUT THIS WILL DAMGAE THE LOCKING TOOL
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks, I had a few practise runs with old bolts and ones I was happy with timing, done the clean run with new bolts and reset timing. Car has successfully stated and looks like don't smoke anymore. The timing kit I had have inconsistent results, it was expensive laser one. Got a bit cheaper laser version and it worked. Now it is time for MOT.
 

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Thanks, I had a few practise runs with old bolts and ones I was happy with timing, done the clean run with new bolts and reset timing. Car has successfully stated and looks like don't smoke anymore. The timing kit I had have inconsistent results, it was expensive laser one. Got a bit cheaper laser version and it worked. Now it is time for MOT.
thats all good then ideal.
 
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