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Discussion Starter #1
Hello, I've got a problem with my 2010 Mini Cooper and it's steering lock. Can anybody recommend a good honest specialist in Kent? Preferably towards the south east.
Any recommendation is much appreciated as I've got no clue who I should take my Mini to.
 

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Hi! I am from Kent and i only know of one mini specialist, who I would t recommend. Very expensive. Fuel pressure pump cost was about £900. Rang Barratts mini (ashford and Canterbury) just for a laugh, turns out they would do the same job for £500!
Not all dealerships are equal, I’m currently up north and the one nearest is more expensive, but they seem reasonable and then you get the back up of the name.
What is it you need doing?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hi! I am from Kent and i only know of one mini specialist, who I would t recommend. Very expensive. Fuel pressure pump cost was about £900. Rang Barratts mini (ashford and Canterbury) just for a laugh, turns out they would do the same job for £500!
Not all dealerships are equal, I’m currently up north and the one nearest is more expensive, but they seem reasonable and then you get the back up of the name.
What is it you need doing?
Well I've got a problem where the car won't start unless I reset the CAS/ELV. This need's doing everytime I remove the key. I figure this is some specific electrical problem and usually dealers just replace entire units instead of diagnosing properly.
The closest specialist I can find are over a 100 miles away. I live in Ashford so I guess I have to take it to Barretts BMW. Have you ever dealt with them? Any idea on what their practices and prices are like?
 

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I won’t name and shame the one I used, but they charged 75 (before VAT) for a diagnostic and then were gonna charge the same again. I would go to a local mechanic, ask them to do a diagnostic reading, they’ll probably ask you for £20-40, but it’s good for peace of mind.
I would just give them a call, I don’t think there’s much in it cost wise. Like I said, the independent one was almost twice the cost. (I’ll give you a clue, they’re in the town with a giant crossing.) but just give mini a ring with what you think the problem is and then get a quote, try the one this guys said too and see what the prices are like.
Barratts have been going for years, they guarantee their work and you get the mini stamp/paperwork. My mate who’s a mechanic offered the same price on the high pressure fuel pump, so I think they’re reasonable.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well I gave them both a call. Barrett's Mini wants £125 to diagnose it and the guys over at Palmer say it's £50 minimum charge to hook up the computer. Barrett can take my Mini from next week but Palmer would have be from 24th.
I think I might just have to drop it off into Barretts and soak up the extra cost. I just hope to God that they will properly diagnose the problem and not send me on a wild goose chase.
 

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Well I gave them both a call. Barrett's Mini wants £125 to diagnose it and the guys over at Palmer say it's £50 minimum charge to hook up the computer. Barrett can take my Mini from next week but Palmer would have be from 24th.
I think I might just have to drop it off into Barretts and soak up the extra cost. I just hope to God that they will properly diagnose the problem and not send me on a wild goose chase.
Yeah I think it’s worth it. The mini is a real pain in the arse to work on and many mechanics don’t like working on them.
I spent about the same at an independent as you would at mini, due to the amount of time and troubleshooting.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Yeah I think it’s worth it. The mini is a real pain in the arse to work on and many mechanics don’t like working on them.
I spent about the same at an independent as you would at mini, due to the amount of time and troubleshooting.
Yeah I can see why. Few weeks ago I needed to clean the alternator cable, had to take half the front of to barely get to it. I've also seen youtube videos that show that the main computer is under the front dash, meaning to you have to take the entire dash off to change it, terrible design in my opinion, probably designed to rack up the labour hours on simple jobs.
I will update this thread once I know more, just in case anybody else with similar problem stumbles onto this post.
 

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Yeah I can see why. Few weeks ago I needed to clean the alternator cable, had to take half the front of to barely get to it. I've also seen youtube videos that show that the main computer is under the front dash, meaning to you have to take the entire dash off to change it, terrible design in my opinion, probably designed to rack up the labour hours on simple jobs.
I will update this thread once I know more, just in case anybody else with similar problem stumbles onto this post.
Yeah I was about to say, I went to a breakers yard for minis and they offered to hook it up to the diagnostic machine, found out loads about the car and one thing was that it takes about four hours labour to do the ECU!
Lots of things you can do yourself though, checks wise. Just purchased a Haynes manual for the 07-13 (r56) model so let me know if there’s anything you can think of. I managed to pick up a (VGC) used hardback copy (rare) for £12.50 on Amazon
 

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I just found this by the way, looking up what CAS/ELV meant and it was the first thing on the search engine...sounds exactly the same as yours!

“How to Solve BMW A0AA Faultby Resetting CAS ELV Steering Lock? A0AA is a very common fault stored in BMW Car Access System (CAS). The fault can cause an annoying light and bing noise or even non start. You can carry out a reset using an Autel MaxiSys system (i.e MaxiSys Elite, MaxiSys MS908P etc).”
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thank you I appreciate the help a lot.
I did find that article also. I don't have that specific scan tool, but the one I borrowed from a friend also allowed me to do ELV counter and CAS reset. I did both of them and the car starts fine, but as soon as the key is removed from the ignition it's back to square one. I also don't have that steering lock symbol, which is what's confusing to me as I do have the A115 Electric Steering Lock Line Fault code. And I can in fact turn the steering wheel when the key is removed, which I presume I shouldn't be able to do.
I can only clear that code when I perform the CAS or ELV counter reset. But again, as soon as the key is removed the yellow lift symbol pops back up and the code is registered again and I can't turn the ignition on.

I've got Mini booked on Monday, meanwhile I had an mechanic look at it. Told me it would need CAS lock replacement. I looked on Ebay, the entire set which includes the CAS module, DDE and ignition + key, costs around £100-200. MINI N47C16 COOPER D 2010>2014 (8512415) ENGINE 1.6 ECU KIT DME CAS 3 MANUAL | eBay
The worst part of course is changing out those parts and then finding someone who can code used ECU's.
I'm also confused as to why I can start the car just fine after resetting the CAS/ELV, but as soon as the key is removed the car bricks itself again. I presume this is after it tries to engage the steering lock, as the yellow lift symbol pops up after few seconds when key is removed. Surely if the computer was faulty it wouldn't work at all?

Does your manual include description for each of the fuses? I'm wondering if there's any that's related to those computer units.
Also I've read that MINI's and BMW after 2008 don't have steering lock. Is there anyway you can confirm that, either by the manual or if also have a 2008> r56 could you check what happens to your steering lock after you remove the key?
 

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Thank you I appreciate the help a lot.
I did find that article also. I don't have that specific scan tool, but the one I borrowed from a friend also allowed me to do ELV counter and CAS reset. I did both of them and the car starts fine, but as soon as the key is removed from the ignition it's back to square one. I also don't have that steering lock symbol, which is what's confusing to me as I do have the A115 Electric Steering Lock Line Fault code. And I can in fact turn the steering wheel when the key is removed, which I presume I shouldn't be able to do.
I can only clear that code when I perform the CAS or ELV counter reset. But again, as soon as the key is removed the yellow lift symbol pops back up and the code is registered again and I can't turn the ignition on.

I've got Mini booked on Monday, meanwhile I had an mechanic look at it. Told me it would need CAS lock replacement. I looked on Ebay, the entire set which includes the CAS module, DDE and ignition + key, costs around £100-200. MINI N47C16 COOPER D 2010>2014 (8512415) ENGINE 1.6 ECU KIT DME CAS 3 MANUAL | eBay
The worst part of course is changing out those parts and then finding someone who can code used ECU's.
I'm also confused as to why I can start the car just fine after resetting the CAS/ELV, but as soon as the key is removed the car bricks itself again. I presume this is after it tries to engage the steering lock, as the yellow lift symbol pops up after few seconds when key is removed. Surely if the computer was faulty it wouldn't work at all?

Does your manual include description for each of the fuses? I'm wondering if there's any that's related to those computer units.
Also I've read that MINI's and BMW after 2008 don't have steering lock. Is there anyway you can confirm that, either by the manual or if also have a 2008> r56 could you check what happens to your steering lock after you remove the key?
Let’s hope it doesn’t come to more than £200 if that’s the cost of the part, also sounds like it’s a fault on their behalf hence ditching the steering wheel lock.
 

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278613

278614

That’s the first mention of anything to do with the steering in the wiring section, along with the fuse numbers. I’ll try to keep it in order
 
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