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Misfires multiple cylinders off Engine Refresh. N18

1142 Views 16 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  SebR56
Hey all,

Getting misfires on all cylinders but #3 is looking a tad worse when I removed the plugs. These were new plugs and have only had the engine running for total 20 minutes or so before I shut it off to read the codes.

Pictures from left to right is 1-4. The darkest one in the threads is #3. Certainly all fouled out. When removed I realized they were not as torqued down as I would have liked. Also noticed light coat of wetness on top of pistons while looking down spark plug hole. Im pretty sure it is oil, considering that I have not broken in the engine with new oil rings I would expect a bit of blow by. But this seems like way too much judging by the spark plugs. I do have old gasoline in the car but Ive poured in a fuel stabilizer and another additive to get rid of the water build up in the tank. I had a Maf
sensor code before the rebuild but can't get that to re appear now.
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My misfire codes now are all P0300-P0303

2EE2: Combustion misfiring, several cylinders: damaging exhaust gas after start sequence

2EEC: Combustion misfiring, cylinder 3: damaging exhaust gas after start sequence

2EFE: Combustion misfires, several cylinders detected

2FO1: Combustion misfire, cylinder 3 detected

Previously had a MAF P0102 before the refresh and haven’t gotten it to reappear.

Car has 115k miles
Replaced:
  • head gasket
  • valve stem seals
  • Valves were lapped and seated at a machine shop
  • injectors, HPFP, fuel rail pressure sensor
  • 3 piece Mahle oil rings, cylinder hone
  • rod bearings, and aftermarket rods
  • thermostat, water pump
  • Timing chain kit. Guides, tensioners, sprocket.
  • Vacuum lines
  • Fuel filter
  • Crank sensor
  • Valve cover
  • New oem battery
  • Along with most o rings and seals as I coulD

Did NOT replace:
  • Vanos solenoids (replaced under warranty at 60k and looked clean)
  • o2 sensors
  • MAF
  • Coil packs
Right now im thinking there's an air leak. Sounds fine when codes are cleared until I rev to 3k, then I can hear the misfires. Would coil packs be the next best thing to replace or is there something else I’m missing?

car has a resonator delete.

would a compression test hurt my piston rings in any way?

i have not adjusted the flow rate of each injector to the car. I know that’s a bmw thing but wasnt sure with Minis so I stored the numbers on each injector anyways.

Any advice is appreciated!
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For new plug threads to look like that suggests the plugs were quite loose. Would this account for the misfires?

Anything is possible...

Up to you if you want to install the plugs -- after confirming they are properly gapped) -- and then be sure they are properly torqued.

Fuel stablizers are crap. Get fresh fuel in the tank.

The misfire codes:

2EE2: Combustion misfiring, several cylinders: damaging exhaust gas after start sequence

2EEC: Combustion misfiring, cylinder 3: damaging exhaust gas after start sequence

suggest the engine is running too rich. At least upon startup.

Wonder what the intake air temperature and coolant temperature sensor readings are?

Bad/weak coils could account for misfires of the rich kind. For bad coils read also bad wiring/electrical connections. Also you sure the battery is fully charged? And the battery connections/cabling is all good?

Compression test won't hurt the piston rings. But not sure a compression test is called for at this time.

Don't know about adjusting flow rate of the injectors but if that is a thing it probably should be done. Injectors delivering more fuel than the engine controller expects can certainly result in rich misfires.
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For new plug threads to look like that suggests the plugs were quite loose. Would this account for the misfires?

Anything is possible...

Up to you if you want to install the plugs -- after confirming they are properly gapped) -- and then be sure they are properly torqued.

Fuel stablizers are crap. Get fresh fuel in the tank.

The misfire codes:

2EE2: Combustion misfiring, several cylinders: damaging exhaust gas after start sequence

2EEC: Combustion misfiring, cylinder 3: damaging exhaust gas after start sequence

suggest the engine is running too rich. At least upon startup.

Wonder what the intake air temperature and coolant temperature sensor readings are?

Bad/weak coils could account for misfires of the rich kind. For bad coils read also bad wiring/electrical connections. Also you sure the battery is fully charged? And the battery connections/cabling is all good?

Compression test won't hurt the piston rings. But not sure a compression test is called for at this time.

Don't know about adjusting flow rate of the injectors but if that is a thing it probably should be done. Injectors delivering more fuel than the engine controller expects can certainly result in rich misfires.
They were quite loose. Just barely hand tight, more than finger right. If I put 92-3 non Ethanol fuel in there would these spark plugs be fine to re use? They r supposed to be pre gapped but I haven’t measured if they’ve moved. Or will they absolutely misfire due to being so fouled out. I might throw in the old ones. I’d hate buying new then ruining them immediately after. I could have fouled them out during the priming process. I was cranking the engine over with coils unplugged but I believe that also cuts fuel delivery.

Got a new Oem battery in there, I’d hope it’s the coils. I haven’t swapped cylinders with them yet. I might try swapping them around when I add better fuel today. I’ll be sure to watch the live data of intake and coolant temps
They were quite loose. Just barely hand tight, more than finger right. If I put 92-3 non Ethanol fuel in there would these spark plugs be fine to re use? They r supposed to be pre gapped but I haven’t measured if they’ve moved. Or will they absolutely misfire due to being so fouled out. I might throw in the old ones. I’d hate buying new then ruining them immediately after. I could have fouled them out during the priming process. I was cranking the engine over with coils unplugged but I believe that also cuts fuel delivery.

Got a new Oem battery in there, I’d hope it’s the coils. I haven’t swapped cylinders with them yet. I might try swapping them around when I add better fuel today. I’ll be sure to watch the live data of intake and coolant temps
It is clear from the threads combustion gases were flowing up past the threads. A misfire is a cylinder fails to accelerate the flywheel the expected amount on its power stroke. To have some combustion pressure escaping past the loose plugs can account for the misfires.

Have encountered stale gas -- 6+ months old -- but the engine (in an Infiniti EX 35) -- started right up and idled fine. No misfires but the engine was down on power something I didn't realize until I had used enough fuel to add fresh fuel. After the engine perked right up. Oh, it was not my vehicle but a family member's and I never drove it before so I at first thought the down on power was just normal.

Heavily fouled plugs may make for a hard to start engine and if it does start it could misfire until the plugs burn off any fouling. I'd clean the plugs with a residue free cleaner like brake cleaner (in an aerosol can). Also check the gaps.

Don't know how long the car sat and if it was exposed to the elements. To be thorough consider at least checking the coil connections to ensure they are good.

A longer shot but if the car sat for any length of time you need to think about rodent damage.The wiring is especially attractive to being gnawed.
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If the person assembling the engine failed to correctly torque the spark plugs in my book that would only be a minor misdemeanor- I've done far worse! Given that the engines can often run like crap for several outings I think Rocksters advice is very sound. And old fuel (like 2 yr) has not been a major problem for several cars I have worked on.
I’ve driven the car 3.5 miles after cleaning the plugs with brake clean and re torquing them making sure to get them much tighter. Still misfired this time but only happens after I rev past 4K. On my live data misfire counters it shows 3 and 4 are the only cylinders misfiring. Then on idle it’s really noticeable. Seems pretty smooth as I’m going through some gears. On this drive I got a P15E8 code even though I have a new thermostat. Still no check engine light either.

Car sat for 2 months outside then inside my garage after that. Wiring is not completely out of the question in my view but I can’t see much wrong with it visually. I haven’t cut open the coil wires to inspect more either. I did replace the coil pack ground wire connection to the back of the valve cover.
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irduim plugs are very hard, mini coil packs are farily weak at best, I would only fit factory plugs in them, more so on earlier n14 engines , also fuel in uk if i put 93ron in it effects how runs get knock warnings when gets pushed, old cheap fuel yes will cause issues and more so when its got a higher level of bio grain fuels as the grain part tends to go solid with age,
below screen shot is what factory plugs should be n18 engines ,
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Tested back pressure of the exhaust by putting a gauge in the upper most o2 sensor of my stock cat.

when above 3k rpms the pressure went past 1.4. Around the 2 psi range easily for an instant when I put the throttle down. To my understand it should be no more than 1.4 psi of back pressure or else there will be misfires. This aligns with the car misfiring past 3k rpm previously. Are there certain codes for when the cat is clogged up? Didint think I would have to start thinking about buying an aftermarket down pipe so soon.
thing is you need to know why have back pressure, ie your treating the outcome if thats the case it will repeat, question you should ask why is cat blocked,, most likely oil burning and the crud it leaves on top of the cat , a by product of the misfire perhaps
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UPDATE:

Compression test came out better then expected, 200 psi across the board with 205 at#3. This is still before a real piston ring break in.

When using the scan tool and reading active misfires at idle only #3 is missing pretty harshly. I swapped coils and plugs around and it would not follow. I’ve got mini plugs on the way and if that doesn’t help I will be throwing in a spare injector I have. Even though I have a full set of brand new ones.

Very odd to me since I’ve had multiple misfire codes and new injectors/ HPFP. I don’t think the cat could just be causing #3 to miss but who knows. I’ve heard the clogged cats can do some pretty weird stuff. Even using ISTA I can’t get any other codes relating to misfires to appear after only Reving around 3-5k. I ran the test plan for injectors and they all came out okay with no faults and indeed activate when needed.

Any relations with Pcv or intake air leaks and cylinder #3? I beileve the ports that get the most carbon build up from Pcv are 2 and 3 just due to the way it flows through the manifold. But carbon is no issue here on my refreshed valves.

Id like to smoke test the intake but just haven’t gotten around to teaching myself how to perform the test. Haven’t found any good videos yet and I do have the tools available.

Should I consider the ECU to be bricked? I don’t understand how this could ever happen but seems to be mainly a Mini problem on the forums compared to other makes. I see places claim to solve misfires due to crapped out ECU’s and need reflashed. At that point it’s getting tuned
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Update #2

spark plugs replaced and misfire count is better but still blatantly sounds like it’s misfiring on Idle. Mainly #3 and slightly #1. Also interchanged a brand new coil around the cylinders and no change on misfire harder on #3. I think it’s worth a shot to swap injectors around as well. If that doesn’t give any information I’m not sure where else to keep going.

Pictured:
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On all 4 of my “new” plugs I put in after the rebuild the Porcelin spins!? AND that didint solve the issue. Very weird.

I did get an ECU electronic immobilized code 32E3-P16CF. If that code is genuine, I think it has to be wiring. But the car would also likely now even start with that code. I cleared them and only that came back through the DME/CAS. Did not scan with ISTA this time.

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would swap coil packs around see if fault moves with it, same as injectors see if moves, would also check the spring fingers are still on rear of followers on inlet side of vvt, after that a smoke machine would be handy all 4 valves closed inlet and exhaust off and send smoke in plug hole see if any seats leaking, cas unit might eb battery related, or someone has open played the ecu perhaps at some point ,, if have its a normal code to get
UPDATE:

may head gasket job failed because I did not deck the block. In Hanes manual It states .003 is max warpage and I could only find less than .002 thousandths.

I had Mini dealer diagnose, they found combustion gases in coolant and #3 plug wet with coolant.

This car has taken me on a wild story. Not sure if I’m willing to deck the block and have engine out again only because I’ve grown tired of the project and starting to understand why the Minis get so much hate. Currently assessing my options to get the most money out of this car if I were to sell or complete the repair.

Only upside is my cylinder head is fresh and I have two known good working HPFP plus all my other newly replaced parts which I could turn for money.
If I were to buy an engine online I doubt it will be much better than mine and would still need a rebuild.
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welseal on head gasket both sides would of cured that , and use a elring head gasket , wire bush on drill off the block surfaces then brake cleaner both surfaces a few times until clean and dry before adding it, hence why i use it on all refresh jobs have done for many years and never had what you got going on after,
'if' its only 2 thou on the block it's not likely that, might be cracked though or the head, or just something overlooked, head surface or cleanliness etc, maybe invest in ARP bolts instead of stretch
I had my head pressure tested and it turned out fine. If anything I’ll have a machine shop deck the block and likely use arp studs after testing the block itself
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