If it was mine I'd check the timing, some lock tools are better than others.
Months of n12 struggles
So in January I bought a 2007 Mini R56 with the N12 and auto trans from an auction for my fiancé. I buy from auctions a lot without troubles. This has been the only thing to haunt me so far. It needed a timing by chain and I wasn’t worried about it. All that was fixed. She drove it some. But it had a rough idle. So we tried running some CRC intake cleaner through it. Followed the instructions in the video. Since spraying that, I’ve had nonstop issues. The car didn’t want to stay running. Parts were replaced in an attempt to fix it. Finally one day, I just started it and tried to feather the throttle down from a higher rpm. Did this for about 10 minutes. It worked. It would idle. But as soon as you tried accelerating from a stop with the car in drive, it would stutter and stall. Over and over it did this. So we went to put it on a trailer. And I wanted to try something since it sounded fine at a higher rpm. We gave it a push while accelerating down a small hill to the trailer. Once passing 5 mph the car ran perfect. Drove it on the trailer. Idled perfect even in gear for a minute then stalled. Fast forward some more. Thought I had finally gotten it fixed. And then the same issue came back of it stalling at below 5 mph. Tried replacing the Crankshaft Position Sensor today and it sounded better than it ever had. Drove so well. Got in it a second time and it stuttered from a stop before suddenly gaining power. It lost enough power to need to pull off. Shut the car off, restarted it. Ran perfect again. Drove further with it running perfect. It got rough again. Pulled off. Shut it off and immediately restarted it. And it ran perfect again all the way back. Here’s a list of parts replaced(including parts for unrelated issues). Crankshaft Position Sensor, Both Cam Position Sensors, Full Timing Assembly, Mass Airflow Sensor, Exhaust VVT solenoid, Spark-plugs, All Filters, The Adaptations were also reset, Both O2 sensors were replaced. Any help would be appreciated. I’m at a serious loss for ideas. And my local mini dealership is a 2.5 star dealership for a reason, so that’s not an option.
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If the timing was out at all, wouldn’t it run rough at other speeds? From 5 mph to 90 it runs perfectly smooth. I’m not doubting you, I just don’t have enough knowledge.If it was mine I'd check the timing, some lock tools are better than others.
It’s probably not the issue, but my car ran like that when the fuel pressure pump went. Fine when moving, but didn’t like idling unless cold. Worst was after driving, then idling at lights or traffic.
I agree with Charltonator. The the fuelpump is a common issue.
It will cost you a few dollar.
It will cost you a few dollar.
In my experience, everything on the right of the engine is prone to failure, but relatively easy to fix. High pressure fuel pump, oil pressure pump, coolant temp sensor etc.
So in January I bought a 2007 Mini R56 with the N12 and auto trans from an auction for my fiancé. I buy from auctions a lot without troubles. This has been the only thing to haunt me so far. It needed a timing by chain and I wasn’t worried about it. All that was fixed. She drove it some. But it had a rough idle. So we tried running some CRC intake cleaner through it. Followed the instructions in the video. Since spraying that, I’ve had nonstop issues. The car didn’t want to stay running. Parts were replaced in an attempt to fix it. Finally one day, I just started it and tried to feather the throttle down from a higher rpm. Did this for about 10 minutes. It worked. It would idle. But as soon as you tried accelerating from a stop with the car in drive, it would stutter and stall. Over and over it did this. So we went to put it on a trailer. And I wanted to try something since it sounded fine at a higher rpm. We gave it a push while accelerating down a small hill to the trailer. Once passing 5 mph the car ran perfect. Drove it on the trailer. Idled perfect even in gear for a minute then stalled. Fast forward some more. Thought I had finally gotten it fixed. And then the same issue came back of it stalling at below 5 mph. Tried replacing the Crankshaft Position Sensor today and it sounded better than it ever had. Drove so well. Got in it a second time and it stuttered from a stop before suddenly gaining power. It lost enough power to need to pull off. Shut the car off, restarted it. Ran perfect again. Drove further with it running perfect. It got rough again. Pulled off. Shut it off and immediately restarted it. And it ran perfect again all the way back. Here’s a list of parts replaced(including parts for unrelated issues). Crankshaft Position Sensor, Both Cam Position Sensors, Full Timing Assembly, Mass Airflow Sensor, Exhaust VVT solenoid, Spark-plugs, All Filters, The Adaptations were also reset, Both O2 sensors were replaced. Any help would be appreciated. I’m at a serious loss for ideas. And my local mini dealership is a 2.5 star dealership for a reason, so that’s not an option.
After changing my timing chain the car was very rough at idle turned out it was the camshaft vvt gear. Plastic inner was broken when replaced it goes like new.
I take it your car is a non turbo? Most stalling issues are caused by the vanos system. If the timing is not absolutely spot on, the vanos solenoids cannot compensate and the engine will stall. Did you set the timing yourself?
n12 engines are prone to valve cracking issues and or valve stem seals wear out and drip oil on to valve seat and cause a intermittent misfire,, this misfire also throws 02 sensor warning codes as the air fuel mix dont burn correctly in that cylinder and the ecu gets confused and causes a even worse issue of cutting fuel and timing as thinks it running to rich etc, only way to correctly tell is remove inlet and exhaust manifolds and rover cover set all 4 valves per cylinder so all 4 valves closed and charge the bore through plug hole with compressed air while spraying some wd40 at rear of valves,, if have any bubbles thats the issue,,, cracked valves are very common and get worse when add heat as expand so normal compression test work always find them as such, the stretched timing chain ie car running retarded for a number of miles causes this lost count how many i have seen like this,
you also need a good diagnostics tool to read the timing and 02 sensors trims etc insta d or autocom cdp plus live data run it helps to get a picture, also its common for stretch timing chain to hurt the cat and 02 sensors as dumps unburnt fuel on it,
you also need a good diagnostics tool to read the timing and 02 sensors trims etc insta d or autocom cdp plus live data run it helps to get a picture, also its common for stretch timing chain to hurt the cat and 02 sensors as dumps unburnt fuel on it,
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