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Quick question, do you use the tensioner that comes with the head gasket kit? Is that the new longer version?
no if you bought that cheaper kit on ebay that is the older size the only place to get the longer ones is from main dealer cheaper to buy from psa once again,,
yesterday i contacted bmw for the plastic link pipe from water pump to thermo housing with the vat over £50 psa were £23 plus vat, and online after market £15 ,
yes the flexi leaking will effect how the car runs as will allow 02 to get at post cat sensor , also when engine moves the leak will change and sensor will pick it up
 

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Discussion Starter · #182 ·
Is this the one I'm after..?

How does this compare to the PSA price?
 

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Discussion Starter · #183 ·
Built the car back up again today and took it for a quick spin, it drives perfectly. At idle it still taps Though, and the revs dip regularly/seems to miss slightly. Grasping at straws now but wondering if the new chain tensioner might need replaced with the newer longer type?
 

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Discussion Starter · #184 ·
Fully built up with full new exhaust and new NGK O2 sensors. Drives perfectly but idle is still not right.

seems fairly good for a minute or so after startup, then the engine does something, the revs drop and the valve train suddenly gets noisey, the tapping then appears/gets louder. Wish I knew what the engine was doing at this point. It’s like the valve train changes to warm mode.

What’s it doing?

 

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would say needs adaptions reset and must be reset when engine stone cold as old 02 sensors then the wrong ones will effect the ecu learnings, need to do live data and view everything form fuelling's and timing and vvt etc almost like its a air flow issue or air leak perhaps guess the pcv is all good ie rocker cover and the ppe to bottom of inlet manifold,, also on bottom of inlet the purge valve for fuel tank check thats all good, smoke test it all would be my first job
 

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Discussion Starter · #186 ·
Vanos adaptions have been erased, limits relearned, control unit reset. It does smooth things out for a while, maybe 10 mins or so, then it starts this surging again. Theres definitely something still up.

Surging aside, the engine seems to pulse in time to the tap sound. I say tap, it's more like a sort of bearing rattle/chain slap sound rather than a clearly defined tap, which disappears above 1000rpm.

Cant help thinking this is the root issue, but the chain has been done along with the tensioner, the valve train looks fine, and the noise doesnt increase when I remove the oil cap.

Maybe there are still two issues, I'll invest in a smoke machine and test the manifold etc. just to rule out any leaks. PCV valve and pipe are new by the way, Itake it I can just pump smoke down the PCV pipe to test the manifold etc?
 

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if you remove the oil filter cap does it make it worse or no change, of no change would suspect its a crank case pcv issue , would also try let it idle for a hour or so switch off leave to cool then do same thing they do tend to run all to hell on first starts sometimes tales a run to sort it out really touchy engines they are,, just finished my clubby after rebuild started first hit and sat there at 1200 revs sounds ok i done a without coolant first start on to let it run for 4 minutes on idle just to warm the head and block up helps the welseal to set, that hunted a round a tad they do for a while after ,, you might a run up road will sort it get it all hot and working together
 

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Discussion Starter · #188 ·
Idle goes to pot when oil filler cap is removed.

I can’t take it for a good run at the moment as it’s not MOT’d.

I’m thinking about just sticking it in for it’s test as it is, think it will pass the emissions?
 

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Discussion Starter · #190 ·
Might be making some progress, well it's at least throwing a fault code and a CEL.

I let it run for about an hour last night, then let it cool overnight.
Went out tonight and ran diags, it threw a 287D - Vanos variable (camshaft timing) , inlet, actuator movement - present
Cleared the 287D and then reset everything while it was stone cold. Adaptions, Vanos adaptions, limits relearned, Control Unit re-set.

It started fine but was hunting a little for a bit, which is expected. Then it suddenly went haywire, seemed like it was running on two cylinders for about 30 seconds, it smelled terrible. I tried giving it just a touch of gas, but it still sounded terrible. I let it idle for a second, then it cut out completely.
I started it back up and it idled the best it has ever idled, so I took it out for a 10 minute spin down the back road. It ran ok but still wasnt idling properly, it's still tick/knocking away at idle, and I can hear a faint camshaft knock type noise also at between 2k and 3k revs.
Noticed that the engine light was on when I got back, so ran diags.

Throws the 287D - Vanos variable (camshaft timing) , inlet, actuator movement - present again.

I then ran EOBD diags, and it threw a P0012 - 'A' camshaft position - timing over-retarded bank 1 - Current

What's your thoughts Mike, where do I start??

Tell me it's just the Inlet Vanos Actuator... please!!! 😊
 

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Might be making some progress, well it's at least throwing a fault code and a CEL.

I let it run for about an hour last night, then let it cool overnight.
Went out tonight and ran diags, it threw a 287D - Vanos variable (camshaft timing) , inlet, actuator movement - present
Cleared the 287D and then reset everything while it was stone cold. Adaptions, Vanos adaptions, limits relearned, Control Unit re-set.

It started fine but was hunting a little for a bit, which is expected. Then it suddenly went haywire, seemed like it was running on two cylinders for about 30 seconds, it smelled terrible. I tried giving it just a touch of gas, but it still sounded terrible. I let it idle for a second, then it cut out completely.
I started it back up and it idled the best it has ever idled, so I took it out for a 10 minute spin down the back road. It ran ok but still wasnt idling properly, it's still tick/knocking away at idle, and I can hear a faint camshaft knock type noise also at between 2k and 3k revs.
Noticed that the engine light was on when I got back, so ran diags.

Throws the 287D - Vanos variable (camshaft timing) , inlet, actuator movement - present again.

I then ran EOBD diags, and it threw a P0012 - 'A' camshaft position - timing over-retarded bank 1 - Current

What's your thoughts Mike, where do I start??

Tell me it's just the Inlet Vanos Actuator... please!!! 😊
would suspect inlet vanos or and inlet camshaft oil control rings on end of camshaft might be broken , deffo worth pulling the end cap off and have a lot, if have any grooves in end cap its a deffo issue some wear the inner edges of those rings, pic below for what i mean
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Discussion Starter · #193 ·
I'll pull the rocker cover back off and check the timing again, if it's still fine then I think I'll pull the cams out again and go through it all with a fine toothed comb.

I've ordered an exhaust Vanos Sprocket and updated Timing Chain Tensioner from PSA, might as well add an inlet Vanos Actuator to the list too.

I might buy a set of hydraulic lifters and install them while I have everything out, if I cant find anything else wrong with it.

Hand me that parts blunderbus...
 

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my project i got running today again one hit on button started hunted around for 30 seconds then settled after a hour on idle the tick over was 750 revs ish no taping totally no crank case pressure pushing out the filler cap and could even run it with oil filler off and made no difference just sat idling nearly silent ie zero tapping noises ,, then i scanned it and found its got a fault code for oil pump solenoid open circuit permanent think the coil inside has melted its windings common issues when they fail, oil pump is £200 ish i can buy from psa the solonoid for £50 so have ordered one sump back off again ,, also found the cheap link pipe from thermo housing was leaking the rubber seal got clipped when I put it in and hurt the rubber o-ring so inlet manifold is all off again ,, sometimes you just get them one thing after another and just got to keep chipping away at it, last garage that had this car in told owner the engine is total loss and should just fit new one, like proving people wrong lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #196 ·
my project i got running today again one hit on button started hunted around for 30 seconds then settled after a hour on idle the tick over was 750 revs ish no taping totally no crank case pressure pushing out the filler cap and could even run it with oil filler off and made no difference just sat idling nearly silent ie zero tapping noises ,, then i scanned it and found its got a fault code for oil pump solenoid open circuit permanent think the coil inside has melted its windings common issues when they fail, oil pump is £200 ish i can buy from psa the solonoid for £50 so have ordered one sump back off again ,, also found the cheap link pipe from thermo housing was leaking the rubber seal got clipped when I put it in and hurt the rubber o-ring so inlet manifold is all off again ,, sometimes you just get them one thing after another and just got to keep chipping away at it, last garage that had this car in told owner the engine is total loss and should just fit new one, like proving people wrong lol
It’s great when you get a lead, or the tool pics up a code that’s specific to the fault. At least you then know where to start. This ones driving me round the bend as it has a physical noise that I just can’t trace, it’s definitely not a normal n12 noise, and I’m convinced it’s linked in some way to the running problems. I don't remember noticing it before the rebuild.

Anyway, rocker cover off again tonight to check the timing and also double check the rockers etc.

Do you think the tapping could be a faulty lifter?

Watch this and let me know your thoughts re the timing and where the tapping could be coming from...

 

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it all looks to be where it should all be if that makes sense , the timing toll i always bolt the middle bolt in when doing them yours dont look to far off , might just be a lifter , could try sticking can of seafoam in oil and run it for hour that will clean out the lifters if sticking ,
 

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Discussion Starter · #198 ·
Exhaust Vanos Sprocket replaced (Inlet already replaced), Inlet Actuator Solenoid, and updated (I think) chain tensioner (same length as the one from the kit) all installed tonight. Fired it up and it's exactly the same, ran nice, fairly quiet for a bit, then as it warms up and revs drop the noise starts. The revs then then drop periodically, it coughs, and they pick up again.

Effing love this car...!
 

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Discussion Starter · #199 · (Edited)
If it's a timing issue, can I disconnect the valvetronic plug from the motor and adjust it manually to test? I'm thinking if it's out just a wee bit then a slight turn with an alan key will either advance or retard the timing on the inlet valves. If it idles better I'll know it's a timing issue.

What do you think, ever tried this?
 

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on live data what do the smooth running on each cylinder state, also the misfire count, might be able to narrow it down to a cylinder, might pay to back to basics and pull inlet and exhaust manifold and close all 4 valves on each cylinder and charge air in each one and spray wd40 at rear of all valves in the ports and bubbles then something not right with a valve seat,, might find this fault is a reactive fault where when engine is cold and on choke running i reset ecu map to run from cold and when heats up and gives control to closed loop running ie 02 sensors control it and then its picking up leaky valve somewhere or air leak somewhere, guess the fuel tank purge valve is all plugged in right or not leaking at base of inlet manifold,
 
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