[Cody4130]

I have been trying to get my 2009 cooper project to run properly for a couple weeks. Upon first start the idle is lumpy but eventually smooths out. The vanos position and eccentric shaft position move around with revs and load as they should. Actual and commanded values are within 1 degree. The eccentric shaft value is around 23-24 at idle. (All these values are in degrees) I can hear a faint thunk sound then the value changes to a static 121 commanded 119 actual for the cam timing (both cams) and 176 commanded 171 actual for the eccentric values. Again these values never change, idle, WOT no change. Once this happens the car idles smoother but feels "flat" it revs slowly after 4000ish rpm. Feels like it's missing 20-25% of it's power. I have two scan tools both show similar findings. I get codes for the szl signal, DME tank vapor vent, 278D vanos. Vanos solenoids are new and I've tried switching them.

After significant research and forum lurking I am confident my timing process was right. As described by mike1967. I used a Mini specific locking tool, feeler gauges to take up any slack, and holding the camshafts in place with a wrench while doing the bolt stretch. New everything was used, cylinder head, gaskets, bolts, pistons, bearings, chain, tensioner and crank gears ect. Ect. I followed the torque processes. Once finished engine was rotated by hand 4 times and rechecked. Then ran down the road brought back and rechecked again.
I am unsure if a strange secondary problem is related in some way, my cooling fans will not turn on once the car reaches over 200F or even 220F. The fan itself works if I provide a direct 12v power or unplug the temp sensor. It's like the DME won't send the signal.

Included a current photo.

 

[Cody4130]

Head is new, head gasket was a standard thickness mahle one. A thunk isn't exactly the sound but it's the only way I can describe it. It sounds like something "switches off". Then the values go static and the idle smooths.
What would cause the values to be static?

 

[Cody4130]

Yes, I timed it myself following the instructions of mike1967.

Is there anyone who knows what the values "should" be and what would cause them to go static and not change. I'm trying to figure out if the root cause is a problem with the vanos gears? Or the eccentric shaft system?

Compression test was done when I checked the timing. 180 across all cylinders.

 

[Cody4130]

This is the only photo I have of this area (taken during assembly). But Mike are you talking about the eccentric shaft sensor located in this area? I re used the sensor and coil from my old head. Perhaps it was damaged somehow?

 

[Cody4130]

Vanos rings might be possible but the head is "new" (remanufactured from a reputable company) I have put less than 20 test miles on it since assembly.

 

[Cody4130]

The head was fully built by them. It was completely assembled with cams, followers eccentric shaft ect. minus the stepper motor and sensors.

I bought the car as a non runner previous owner said head gasket had blown due to the lower rad hose leaking and the car overheating. One of the combustion chambers was damaged so I bought a new head. Here are photos of the engine as I bought it.

 

[Cody4130]

 

[Cody4130]

Is there some way to test the eccentric shaft sensor? Some specific voltages or resistance I should be looking for? I might buy the adaptor to test oil pressure. I'm wondering if the DME could be faulty causing this issue. It's so strange the values move as they should and then go static. I'll try to get a photo of the values before and after they go crazy.

 

[Cody4130]

Here is what my scan tool shows. Do these look normal?
Idle was lumpy for a couple of minutes and then smoothed out. Photos were taken once idle smoothed out. Car rev'd well and was quiet.

 

[Cody4130]

I took out the eccentric shaft sensor and refitted it. That seemed to solve my issue with the values not changing. Took it around the block and power delivery was surging, car had several misfires. Values all seemed good none went static. My cooling fan began working again as well.

I'm going to try a plug change and see if that fixes the misfires along with an oil change. Car has around 25 miles on it. And over an hour of run time after the full rebuild.

 

[Cody4130]

I would assume the values would be the same regardless of which scan tool is used. I have an Autel with the mini specific software and this BMW/Mini specific Autophix model. My Autel is cellphone based and wouldn't do the steering angle or vanos adaptations the Autophix does. I'll take the car for a longer drive tomorrow now that the cooling fan is working and see if I encounter any more hiccups. I will post O2 values to see if they look ok. I believe one lambda was around .97-.98 and the other was 1.02-1.04. those seemed close enough to 1.0 that I wasn't concerned but I'm not ruling out a damaged cat or O2.

 

[Cody4130]

Started it today. Was randomly misfiring on all cylinders. I took out plugs and they were wet. Cleaned them with carb cleaner and dried them with a rag. Checked gaps all were 30 thousandths. (Bosch iridium OE plugs supposedly pre gapped). Put the plugs back in and switched the coil packs around in case one was causing issues.
Took it up the road and the car was surging badly and misfiring. No other codes but misfires. I checked the fuel trims and long term was -7.8 so it seems the car is running rich. Smooth running values were all over the place. Vanos timing switching but sometimes the commanded and actual values were 20-30 degrees off.

 

[Cody4130]

Mike I finally got around to checking the oil pressure today, warm idle was around 45psi as seem in picture), 3k was about 70psi (was hard to get picture) , and 4.5k+ was 90-100psi.

I took it up the road and it is still surging like driving a bucking horse. Took a few photos of some values

 

[Cody4130]

I decided to double check my rocker arms for proper orientation, even though they were assembled by the cylinder head shop and not me, and discovered cylinder 1 (Bottom of photo) had fallen off. I put it back on and refitted the valve cover. Idle was smooth. All my misfires went away but power delivery is still surging. Misfire count is 0 but watching the vanos numbers the intake numbers the actual and commanded get further apart when power surges, 30 to 40 degrees sometimes. Exhaust vanos numbers stay within a couple degrees. I'm going to try switching the solenoids. I also ordered two new ones in case these ones are comtaminated with metal shavings. Also

changed the oil and filter.

 

[Cody4130]

Thanks Mike. I will try to turn it with a wrench and see if it moves easily. The tensioner I fitted was aftermarket and looks like the shorter one in your picture. I took it out to check and it seemed to be functioning fine. I can order the updated genuine one and swap them out.
The Vanos gears I used are the original ones from the engine 94k. I also checked the followers and the spring is placed in the groove as it should be.

 

[Cody4130]

Update: Problem solved! I installed two new Vanos solenoids and changed the oil and filter. The car runs 100% now. Thanks for all the help.