Hi Cody4130, sorry to drop this in now, over a year since you posted, however can't help but notice the damage to the cylinder head. I guess that could have been done by a number of things - but one possible cause would be a valve seat dropping out, a pet topic of mine! Was there similar damage to the piston crown? I have added a picture of my partner's n12 after a valve seat dropped out.
N12 vanos woes
I have been trying to get my 2009 cooper project to run properly for a couple weeks. Upon first start the idle is lumpy but eventually smooths out. The vanos position and eccentric shaft position move around with revs and load as they should. Actual and commanded values are within 1 degree. The eccentric shaft value is around 23-24 at idle. (All these values are in degrees) I can hear a faint thunk sound then the value changes to a static 121 commanded 119 actual for the cam timing (both cams) and 176 commanded 171 actual for the eccentric values. Again these values never change, idle, WOT no change. Once this happens the car idles smoother but feels "flat" it revs slowly after 4000ish rpm. Feels like it's missing 20-25% of it's power. I have two scan tools both show similar findings. I get codes for the szl signal, DME tank vapor vent, 278D vanos. Vanos solenoids are new and I've tried switching them.
After significant research and forum lurking I am confident my timing process was right. As described by mike1967. I used a Mini specific locking tool, feeler gauges to take up any slack, and holding the camshafts in place with a wrench while doing the bolt stretch. New everything was used, cylinder head, gaskets, bolts, pistons, bearings, chain, tensioner and crank gears ect. Ect. I followed the torque processes. Once finished engine was rotated by hand 4 times and rechecked. Then ran down the road brought back and rechecked again.
I am unsure if a strange secondary problem is related in some way, my cooling fans will not turn on once the car reaches over 200F or even 220F. The fan itself works if I provide a direct 12v power or unplug the temp sensor. It's like the DME won't send the signal.
Included a current photo.
![278839]()
![278838]()
After significant research and forum lurking I am confident my timing process was right. As described by mike1967. I used a Mini specific locking tool, feeler gauges to take up any slack, and holding the camshafts in place with a wrench while doing the bolt stretch. New everything was used, cylinder head, gaskets, bolts, pistons, bearings, chain, tensioner and crank gears ect. Ect. I followed the torque processes. Once finished engine was rotated by hand 4 times and rechecked. Then ran down the road brought back and rechecked again.
I am unsure if a strange secondary problem is related in some way, my cooling fans will not turn on once the car reaches over 200F or even 220F. The fan itself works if I provide a direct 12v power or unplug the temp sensor. It's like the DME won't send the signal.
Included a current photo.
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