MINI Cooper Forum banner
1 - 13 of 13 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,

I am in need of help getting my 1st gen 2003 R50 Mini (manual trans.) to turn over. With a fully charged battery and pressurised fuel delivered to the engine rail, the car cranks but does not turn over. The only error code I receive any more (and only sometimes) is a P0138 code about the rear O2 sensor.

This car has sat for a year since it last ran. Back when it ran, i replaced the fuel filter because the car was struggling at idle. I did not realize at the time, but I had damaged the fuel filter housing during filter replacement so fuel was barely flowing. I ended up replacing the fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, and crankshaft position sensor before realizing the filter housing was bad. Fuel now runs at high-pressure to the rail as it should.

This is a brand new battery that I leave on charger over night. Even with another car jumping it, it wont turn over. All four spark plugs, boots, and coil pack are brand new. I have reset the ECU. I have replaced the gas cap. The air filter is like new (not clogged).

I am hoping to not continue just throwing money at replacing parts on this car. Would anyone have any recommendations short of bending over for the Mini dealer?

Thank you for your time.

Nate
 

· Registered
Joined
·
189 Posts
Understood. I like to go back to basics with these situations. You know it is not down to the immobiliser if it's trying to start. Your engine needs fuel, air, spark and compression/timing to run. Pull the intake off and squirt easy start down the intake while cranking. If it starts you've ruled everything else out and can look more closely at the fuel delivery.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
It is not clear to me why, but the throttle body does not open when I try to start the engine. As such starting fluid cannot enter the engine. I will remove the battery and try to manually open it to see if the throttle needs cleaning.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Apparently the throttle body typically only opens after the engine has started.

I know that I have fuel at the rail, spark at the plugs, and air filter is not clogged. So i performed a compression test and got, cylinder 1 thru 4, 60 psi, 90 psi, 115 psi, and 110 psi. Back when the car was running, I did a compression test and got 150 psi, 140 psi, 150 psi, and 170 psi. I have no idea how this has happened.

I am wondering if the engine is somehow out of time, would it show bad compression like this?
 

· Registered
Joined
·
189 Posts
Compression tests need to be carried out with no intake restrictions (ie. throttle butterfly wide open). Did you open/remove the TB? If you've been trying unsuccessfully to start it the bores have probably been washed clean of oil. That would lower compression. Incorrect timing would also affect compression but if you haven't messed with that I wouldn't worry about it.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I unplug the throttle control, manually open the throttle, spray starting fluid in and get no start or change in behavior.

Spark plugs, coil pack, and boots are all new. Spark plugs show signs they are sparking. There is pressurized fuel at the rail. I am wondering if there is an air problem. Could a faulty IACV prevent a start? Or perhaps the timing chain should be checked that it somehow has not gotten out of time?
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top