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Discussion Starter #1
Hey al;l
i have fitted the cam and its was fiddly but not at all as hard as i though. I ended up buying a haynes manual in the end and it was a total breeze!.


Just taken it out and VERY VERY VERY disapointed its as flat as a fart and takes forever to accelerate. When i change gear it back fires and its missing occasionaly.


Can any one help is there something worng or have i just missed something. The car is re mapped but not scince i have put the cam in will this make a large differance it feels sooo slow!



gutted


Many Thanks


Phil
 

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Discussion Starter #3
i did think that it might be out a bit wasnt sure??? just feeling like it has no power :(
 

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Discussion Starter #5
i have fitted the 1320 autos cam for the cooper s its made by newman and supposed to have good results just cant understand it?


Might not be fueling correctly too much air possibly?????

Either that or thetiming isnt right?


Phil
 

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Discussion Starter #7
i know i cant get over it but i think that the timing is the only reason to be honest! would the GTT ADJUSTABLE VERNIER CAM SPROCKET by gtt solve the problem???



Phil
 

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tbh ive never seen the sprocket so i cant say, best way is to take it to someone who knows how to adjust valves and have the do it this is not a driveway fix
 

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I would speak to Paul @1320, it's made good power on numerous cars so can't be set up right. It's not a plug (as its not money making) but trying posting on Mini Torque as theres a few on there running this cam.

I don't recall anyone using that sprocket with it so best to ask them first.
 

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you can try all you want to use the GTT vernier pulley on the 1320 cam but my guess is they just wouldnt work together....lol

seriously i would speak to paul and let him have a look. Newmans never make duff cams, its got to be something you have done wrong somewhere.
 

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has the sprocket slipped around on the chain? Maybe youre not one link out either way. I'm guessing you marked the cam and chain so as not to loose the position? Could have been wrong since day one in the factory I suppose.
 

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Here you go, James...

...a thread about it with some technical specs: New GT Tuning Adjustable Cam Timing Sprocket ! + Pic

...and an image of it from the GTT website:

Hope that helps. :D

All the best,
Andrew.​
i have seen the website lol, what i mean is ive never seen it on a car ;) chaim cams are far easier to adjust, and imo its more likely that the valves need their clearances done as well if they have been bumped out.
 

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i have seen the website lol, what i mean is ive never seen it on a car ;) chaim cams are far easier to adjust, and imo its more likely that the valves need their clearances done as well if they have been bumped out.
There is no adjustment for valve clearances on BMW Minis ....they are all hydraulic .
Regarding our sprocket, it allows adjustment to optimise any cam , however if your more than a tooth out you need to get it on the right tooth in the first place then adjust from there.
For example you can get higher peak power at the expense of low/mid power by altering the timing slightly. This can of course be be done at the grinding stage by moving the lobe centrelines radially relative to the location/datum dowell on the cam.
Theoretical optimum timing is not necessarily actual best timing, plus even it it were cam chains stretch which retards the cam timing aswell.
 

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Not always true Roland, in extremely rare circumstances, a lifter can "pump up" and create negative valve clearance so that its valve cannot close.

what i should have said earlier was that even hydraulics can be put out, but not adjusted in the same way (i blame a weekend talking tvr with a mate) as the clearances are pre set in the factory, but as well all know not every engine comes ot perfect
 

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There is no user adjustment, even using a cam with reduced base circle below stock base circle (within the limits that it can compensate) , will not change the clearance as it automatically adjusts . A faultly hydraulic tappet is another issue. :smile:
 

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Still..... id take the cam cover off again, take the plugs out and turn it over with by hand and make sure it is 100% on the marks. The line on the sproket when all the pistons are dead centre?? Cant remember myself.....

It is very easy to get the timing wrong especially if you try to time it without the chain guides in and always make sure there is no slack in the chain on the front of the engine. Maybe have the tentioner in so its applying a small amount of pressure?

If that still looks ok then maybe check the hydrolic tappets and check your boost pressure. Didnt disconnect your bypass valve vacumm hose by accident??
 

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Discussion Starter #18
i thik the timing is out by the sounds of it as after talking to 1320 they siad they went off the haynes manual way of fitting and it was not correct for the cam.


I marked up the crank and engine case made sure they were correct then i marked up the chain and sprocket and made sure that the triangle was at 12 before i took out the old cam in the haynes manual though it mentions that it is not at top dead centre in this position is this why it is wrong??

When i put the new cam in the manual said to put the cam in at 12 oclock but doing this meant that the triangle was no longer at 12 oclock when i matched up the white mark on the chain and sprocket. Is this the problem??


i turned over the engine 2 times by hand and noted that the two white marks did not line up and surely after two complete revolutions this should have been the case.

do i...... take the cam back out and then ensure that alll white marlks line up again and ensure that this time the triangle is at 12 on the sprocket egnoring the requiremnt for the cam to be at 12 oclock as stated???


or do i take a plug out and place a lond screw driver in turn the engine over until the relevant pistons are at top dead centre and do it that way?


Many Thanks

Phil
 
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