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Hi Peeps im new to the mini scene and last weekend i bought a 2011 1.6 diesel manual All 4, i normally research all known faults before buying a vehicle but this time i just didnt get round to it and im all ready starting to worry.
First fault when driving in slow traffic if you then go to increase you speed ever so much there seems to be what i would call turbo lag and then it eventually does pick up and then accelerates normally, now the other day then engine management light came on and we had it checked for codes and there was one code p116d which i believe is related to the Air Mass Flow sensor, but from looking on this forum it could be linked to so many other things now the previous owner said that they had the EGR valve replace and the glow plugs replaced and all was fine, strange after 4 days of ownership it goes tits up, now im worring about the cam chain, cat being blocked, or dpf being blocked any advice would be appreciated thanks steve.
 

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how many miles has it got on it
 

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Sorry I knee I would forget something it's got 68000 mlies which I believe is ideal for everythin to go wrong and thanks for the reply.
its getting there for sure. dpf would be my first job on it, replace it or remove it, removal is mot failure mot test is a visual test to see if not been welded and removed etc, most garages that do it do hide the cut and weld, it does have a double effect ie the oil stays clean after and this helps the chain to live longer, someone said to me the other day after buying a 100k one he felt like he was at a birthday party and the car was the pass the parcel,, ie a number of past owners had shipped it on to someone else in fear of a chain big bill one day,
 

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Cheers Mike do you have any thoughts about the fault code I have. And does the the feeling of turbo lag sound correct issues for the possible part blocked dpf thanks again.
for sure i would suspect the filter, if you see the system as a big air pump what happens if you block either end up it gets hot and stops pumping, all these dpf cleaner additive do not work on a as its the residue of the regens that block them up and its a very fine red brown dust that blocks the filter has its a saturation type so only way to clean then after 75k tops is a specialist company who also clean truck dpf filters,, ie a chemical then extreme heat and high pressure , costs around £300 to remove the dpf and remap it i've had a few cars like this to say the least and fantastic to drive and live with after,
 

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Mike, Serious question.
Why would a remap be necessary after removing the DPF?
Is it performance related or is it to stop the the system thinking there is a dpf fault. I presumed the front and rear sensors were to see if there was a diferential because the filter was blocked.

Gerry
 

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Mike, Serious question.
Why would a remap be necessary after removing the DPF?
Is it performance related or is it to stop the the system thinking there is a dpf fault. I presumed the front and rear sensors were to see if there was a diferential because the filter was blocked.

Gerry
when i first worked at a mapping company back when dpf started to show up and having issues people try'd all kinds of methods of deleting them the car makers done their best to prevent it i would guess or a bi product of its design within ecu's its all linked, its possible to remove the filter on some cars and just tell the ecu that its got a new filter but not many will behave correctly ie pressure sensors within the system show plausibility faults and will cause limp modes or excessive fuel use or car will just be locked in a loop of regen etc, so ecu must be mapped out dpf and always a good thing for egr as well, so might as well while they are in there give it more power as a lot of mappers have a standard rate for map and its down to the owner to ask for what they want from it.
and yes the upsteam and down stream pressure sensors are programmed in the ecu to notice when filter is blocked, or if filter has been changed, and if there is no pressure resistance of flow ie car makers designing the map to stop anyone just removing the filter. ie why map is needed to move certain setting to their extreme say, ie on a mapped dpf you will find if software tells you when next filter needed it will put the mileage at 500.000 miles before this is tripped and a warning appears etc, they also map out the fault codes files for dpf and start up self check so dont trigger fault codes and limp modes etc, also the fueling on a standard map is for a dpf car, where a known rolling road map on dpf delete and egr delete will allow for the removals,, as egr will be used to control knock and pinking under power, a map will alter the timing of fuel injected to suit so wont damage it,,
 
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Thanks again pal. I'm in West Yorkshire any recommendations up this way to have it mapped and removed or cleaned thanks.
no i dont i'm down in southwest got a really good guy down here for it shame not closer, link below just ask for john if anyone else is nearer etc, it is possible to send ecu in post and the dpf filter he can map it and do the filter if that helps, top bloke not silly money and old school with his diagnostics stuff can mpa out any file on a ecu and get it to work they just done a 350bhp fiat 500 arbarth upgrade for drag racing, and r32 hill climb car so fast and stays together, driven a cooper s he done not so long ago was really good link below for him.
Black Magic ECU Remapping Specialist Ltd - Unit 2, 60 Liskeard Road, Callington, Callington - Establishment and car repair
 

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Thanks Mike i will have to do a little bit of re search,just another quick question what oil/grade would you suggest for my diesel with 68000 miles and is it worth doing a bit of a engine flush cheers.
i swear by stuff called seafoam add a can in to crankcase the first time used no more than 50 miles before oil change it will clean out all the crud, if your oil when cold is very thick ie full of dpf carbon it pays to do a no miles flush on it ie leave it run for a hour 2k reves maybe or short journey. i rebuild a lot of engines and use it in a spray bottle as well and scotchbrike pad it removed carbon on pistons just by a few wipes leaves them looking new, also on engines that have been flushed with it before break down the insides are always very clean really good stuff, can also add to fuel filter on diesels and will run on it and clean the system out, they also do a inlet spray that used once month direct in to inletes on petero, cars will keep the carbon at bay, link below
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SEA-FOAM...=2730859458990153890641144d859f055700fae08c75
 

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if your oil is very thin after 10k -15k its a warning sign then engine is stuck in dpf regen and is adding diesel to crankcase from failed regens this happens on dpf cars, on some they start burning the oil/diesel mix so its looks like the oil level never changes, hmmm this at some point becomes neat diesel and the engine ends up destroyed, the person that designed this system was special
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Again thanks Mike, you say put it straight into the crankcase do you mean through the oil filler cap, also everytime we get back from a fairly short journey around 10miles the fan is always stays on when we turn the engine off could this be something different the the dpf issue thanks.
 

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sorry and what oil and grade would you suggest.
i buy trade oil from europarts ie 20 litre drumTRIPLE QX Fully Synthetic ots cheapest way and then do 8k oil changes as have saved a lot on oil, on diesels it must be low saps if the 20 litre drums at moment are £40-£50 GSF also do a same kind of oil they brand as bmw,, but to be honest they are all same stuff meet the same levels just ensure its low saps ash for dpf turbo diesels, i've been diesel tech for a number of years its clean oil that makes the difference and correct make up, the brand is just company's taking advantage of folk, as all eu sold oils must meet the same levels of refining to be the same as such,
https://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/p/...gineoils/5w30-engine-oil/?521776042&0&cc5_247

below links explains oils
https://www.mobil1.co.uk/learning-centre/car-care/engine-oil-faq.aspx
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thanks guys, quick update ive since had the car to multiple garages, most being independent, one did a forced regen on the dpf and said it was working fine but then said he didnt have anytime over the following weeks to look at it lol, the next one found the egr solenoid was sticking so freed it off and he said it seemed better but i didnt think so, he also thought the maf needed replacing so i replaced bot solonoid and maf which didnt solve the problem and again that garage then said he was too busy to book it back in, finally took it to BMW to put on diagnostics, which they apparently they reset alot of things to almost factory settings(not quite sure what they meant) and although he said he hadnt test driven it before he said it drove quite well but if the symptoms came back then he thought it would need a EGR valve and cooler, ive taken the cooler and egr valve off and cleaned them both out and nothing seems seized or even that carboned up, and still the same fault is there and i dont fancy replacing the egr and cooler as its £550 just for the parts, im kind of getting pissed off with this car just at the moment and not quite sure what to do with it at the moment....anybody want to buy a car lol...
 

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bmw would of reset the adaptations in the ecu and also teach values from the maf and egr maybe a dpf regen then reset it back to beginning of time, which only really works if its a new filter fitted. need a live data run on it see what boost you have and what rail pressures under load, i still would lean towards the dpf filter has you have no codes stored,, but also its possible the reason for dpf filter getting blocked is timing chain is worn bmw should be able with diagnostics tell if it is by reading the vanos positions, most run of mill garages prob would not have the gear or know how to diagnose it correctly,
 
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