how many miles has it got on it
its getting there for sure. dpf would be my first job on it, replace it or remove it, removal is mot failure mot test is a visual test to see if not been welded and removed etc, most garages that do it do hide the cut and weld, it does have a double effect ie the oil stays clean after and this helps the chain to live longer, someone said to me the other day after buying a 100k one he felt like he was at a birthday party and the car was the pass the parcel,, ie a number of past owners had shipped it on to someone else in fear of a chain big bill one day,Sorry I knee I would forget something it's got 68000 mlies which I believe is ideal for everythin to go wrong and thanks for the reply.
for sure i would suspect the filter, if you see the system as a big air pump what happens if you block either end up it gets hot and stops pumping, all these dpf cleaner additive do not work on a as its the residue of the regens that block them up and its a very fine red brown dust that blocks the filter has its a saturation type so only way to clean then after 75k tops is a specialist company who also clean truck dpf filters,, ie a chemical then extreme heat and high pressure , costs around £300 to remove the dpf and remap it i've had a few cars like this to say the least and fantastic to drive and live with after,Cheers Mike do you have any thoughts about the fault code I have. And does the the feeling of turbo lag sound correct issues for the possible part blocked dpf thanks again.
when i first worked at a mapping company back when dpf started to show up and having issues people try'd all kinds of methods of deleting them the car makers done their best to prevent it i would guess or a bi product of its design within ecu's its all linked, its possible to remove the filter on some cars and just tell the ecu that its got a new filter but not many will behave correctly ie pressure sensors within the system show plausibility faults and will cause limp modes or excessive fuel use or car will just be locked in a loop of regen etc, so ecu must be mapped out dpf and always a good thing for egr as well, so might as well while they are in there give it more power as a lot of mappers have a standard rate for map and its down to the owner to ask for what they want from it.Mike, Serious question.
Why would a remap be necessary after removing the DPF?
Is it performance related or is it to stop the the system thinking there is a dpf fault. I presumed the front and rear sensors were to see if there was a diferential because the filter was blocked.
no i dont i'm down in southwest got a really good guy down here for it shame not closer, link below just ask for john if anyone else is nearer etc, it is possible to send ecu in post and the dpf filter he can map it and do the filter if that helps, top bloke not silly money and old school with his diagnostics stuff can mpa out any file on a ecu and get it to work they just done a 350bhp fiat 500 arbarth upgrade for drag racing, and r32 hill climb car so fast and stays together, driven a cooper s he done not so long ago was really good link below for him.Thanks again pal. I'm in West Yorkshire any recommendations up this way to have it mapped and removed or cleaned thanks.
i swear by stuff called seafoam add a can in to crankcase the first time used no more than 50 miles before oil change it will clean out all the crud, if your oil when cold is very thick ie full of dpf carbon it pays to do a no miles flush on it ie leave it run for a hour 2k reves maybe or short journey. i rebuild a lot of engines and use it in a spray bottle as well and scotchbrike pad it removed carbon on pistons just by a few wipes leaves them looking new, also on engines that have been flushed with it before break down the insides are always very clean really good stuff, can also add to fuel filter on diesels and will run on it and clean the system out, they also do a inlet spray that used once month direct in to inletes on petero, cars will keep the carbon at bay, link belowThanks Mike i will have to do a little bit of re search,just another quick question what oil/grade would you suggest for my diesel with 68000 miles and is it worth doing a bit of a engine flush cheers.
i buy trade oil from europarts ie 20 litre drumTRIPLE QX Fully Synthetic ots cheapest way and then do 8k oil changes as have saved a lot on oil, on diesels it must be low saps if the 20 litre drums at moment are £40-£50 GSF also do a same kind of oil they brand as bmw,, but to be honest they are all same stuff meet the same levels just ensure its low saps ash for dpf turbo diesels, i've been diesel tech for a number of years its clean oil that makes the difference and correct make up, the brand is just company's taking advantage of folk, as all eu sold oils must meet the same levels of refining to be the same as such,sorry and what oil and grade would you suggest.