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new owner - code 287D

10009 Views 4 Replies 2 Participants Last post by  Osaga
I just purchased a 2009 Mini Coupe manual, AS-IS and just looking for ideas, help and/or suggestions
First time owner so Im not even really sure whats a normal engine sound but to me it seems a little excessive 'valve' ticking...
seems to run and drive, I bought a Foxwell 510 with BMW software and it passed most tests except two, first it shows "consider changing front pads ".. I never had a scanner telling me about changing pads... but the second fault was code 287D ( intake camshaft actuator )
I havent really checked anything yet, but the first thing I was gonna do (needs it or not) to change the oil, the Variable Valve Timing Control Solenoid and the timing chain tensioner
But today, I ended up removing oil cap while the engine was running and there seemed to be some 'pressure' and the engine almost died, running rough and ran again 'normal' once I placed it back on?? would that be exhaust leak,?it smelled like exhaust
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before fitting new parts i would check oil is clean and filter , also pull out the oil solonoid and clean the gauze filters on it they do get crud then throw up fault codes like that, also worth doing a oil pressure test,, i change oil and filter on mine around no more than 10k but 8k better and filter,, the engine gets a kicking from how hot the prince engine runs ie 112c max out normally around 104c,,
after all this would check timing chain and vanos positions actual and prescribed to get a idea on where the chain is,, that said 60,000 miles is about their life span of timin chains i would never fit a new tensioner on old chain as seen many snap top guide off shortly afterwards from extra pressure on worn out parts ,,
its common for engine stall when removing oil cap as it dumps the vac crankcase pressure to inlet manifold,, very common is rocker cover pcv valve to fail this causes bad idle and running lean,, also on turbo cars the inlet valves get coked up do to the pcv system,, highly recommend fitting oil catch cans to both breathers and must be sealed that will keep it from doing this and save the costs of wallnut blasting the inlets
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before fitting new parts i would check oil is clean and filter , also pull out the oil solonoid and clean the gauze filters on it they do get crud then throw up fault codes like that, also worth doing a oil pressure test,, i change oil and filter on mine around no more than 10k but 8k better and filter,, the engine gets a kicking from how hot the prince engine runs ie 112c max out normally around 104c,,
after all this would " to get a idea on where the chain is,, that said 60,000 miles is about their life span of timin chains i would never fit a new tensioner on old chain as seen many snap top guide off shortly afterwards from extra pressure on worn out parts ,,
its common for engine stall when removing oil cap as it dumps the vac crankcase pressure to inlet manifold,, very common is rocker cover pcv valve to fail this causes bad idle and running lean,, also on turbo cars the inlet valves get coked up do to the pcv system,, highly recommend fitting oil catch cans to both breathers and must be sealed that will keep it from doing this and save the costs of wallnut blasting the inlets
thank you, you mentioned oil pressure test, I have a manual gauge that I can fit in to test, what is the 'normal' reading at idle?
I dont know the maintenance history but it has 130k on it - non turbo, as for the timing chain, how do I "check timing chain and vanos positions actual and prescribed"
also, can I get more info on the 'oil catch cans'... most of us like big cans... lol

oh, I found tons of info on the oil catch cans (sealed):)
like i said i use autocom cdp for live data runs and that can show vanos positions,, with 130k on it for sure the chain will be worn i would think most barely make it to 80k so of were done at 80k its where prob needs doing again,, the other ways to tell is use a dummy tenioner that screws in to when chain tensioner goes and can measure the travel, or remove rocker cover and look down where tensioner sits and anything more than about 10mm showing out of tensioner its toast .
as its non turbo dont suffer from coking up the valves as not direct injection,
as for oil pressure below pic shows it
Text Font Line Screenshot Technology
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like i said i use autocom cdp for live data runs and that can show vanos positions,, with 130k on it for sure the chain will be worn i would think most barely make it to 80k so of were done at 80k its where prob needs doing again,, the other ways to tell is use a dummy tenioner that screws in to when chain tensioner goes and can measure the travel, or remove rocker cover and look down where tensioner sits and anything more than about 10mm showing out of tensioner its toast .
as its non turbo dont suffer from coking up the valves as not direct injection,
as for oil pressure below pic shows it
Thanks Mike for all the info... being new to Mini there's LOTS to learn.. but slowly Im getting there... here's an update... I have it on the road:)
I replaced the oil, filter, plugs, venos and seems to run pretty good:)
I also lifted up the carpet on the driver side, I couldn't believe all the water in/under the sponge... took me 5 days with a fan and heat gun to dry it off. I still plan on removing valve cover to check the timing chain since I dont have the timing tensioner tool. Im also looking for wiring diagram so I can trace the radio wiring sine it doesnt work (CD ejects)
My other issue, the driver door, if I close it from outside holding the handle it shuts effortlessly, but from inside, I cant seem to get it closed, I have to slam it 1/2 dozen times OR open the windows and reach out to close it by the handle.. weird??? anyone have an idea what to check/adjust??
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