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Newbie - in the Proces of Purchasing a 2011 Cooper S (Petrol), a couple of questions

1120 Views 10 Replies 2 Participants Last post by  mike1967
Hello all,

I'm keen on buying a 2011 Countryman Cooper S for my wife. I've found what I think is a good car, it's got very low mileage but it needs a few bits doing to it. The rear tyres are original for example, as are the discs by the looks of things. I've read about the timing chain issue, that's looking like somewhere north of £500 to get that swapped out. Are there any major issues that I should be looking out for before do the deal?

Final question - my wife wanted sat nav - it's not got sat nav, but has media pack, is it possible to retrofit the OEM equipment as it is in VWs?

Thanks in advance
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timing chain at around 60.000 miles is where i say as it prevents the engine from running to long retarded from having a worn chain and and car still sort of goes ok if that makes sense, the cooper s is by far the best engine the better being the N18 later engines can tell from looking bonnet up N18 turbo engine will have a oil solenoid next to dipstick as they have twin vanos , and if you like really fast should try a mapped one make silly horse power,, timing chain kit with fitting most places are around the £800 to do job more if the vanos sprockets need doing on higher mileage ie rule f thumb if do chain every 60k then on it 120k change worth doing the vanos sprockets and oil pump chain and sprockets,, turbo's tend to do fairly well well loved never raced cars will do over 130k easy, the big issue is this those engine like most performance engines these days burn oil by design, trouble come when new owners dont understand this and buy a new car with the mindset its a new car so should never need changing or the funniest one is they stick oil in when oil pressure light comes on the dash, you would be surprised by how many people do this but hayho,,, at least i nag my kids for good reason costs nothing to keep checking cost money when you dont, its seen by bmw normal 1 litre engine oil to 1000 miles give or take 200 miles ish, me if car is used hard it uses more. also the best car are private owned ones where owner lives in real world and has ignored the bmw service demands ie they change oil and filter every 10k and not the sill long life 24 months 20k as some do,,, better the oil changes more likely chain will last better and so will turbo and other stuff. would avoid the lease cars if possible, mileage is also key
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Thanks Mike - the car I'm interested in has 37K miles on it - full service history apparently (not seen that yet) - I was thinking of changing the chain purely because the oil will not have been changed every year - it will have been done every two years I suspect. The dates on the tyres back up the mileage, so it's a case of what else I need to look out for
with those miles it should be all good to be honest
Thanks again Mike, DVLA MOTs check out, so once I've seen the service history and spoken with the dealers who have serviced it I'll get it finance checked - If I can negotiate some discount for the tyres that are needed and the brakes then I think my wife will own it tomorrow - it's replacing a VW Golf GTI with similar Horsepower, so I'm intrigued as to how well it'll perform/handle and grip
below link before you part with your hard earned cash always and please do this before as you would not believe the amount of cars and nasty shites out there that will try and sell you car they dont own do hpi check below link is who i use they have saved my arse a few times
if you want something to out do the golf get it mapped they respond so well to that
We mapped the golf, so this may be next - any recommendations appreciated in terms of decent companies. I wouldn't want to go overboard with HP and have no interest in upgrading any internals - this is the school run car that I get to use occasionally
i do work for local mapping company and repair garage its in my signature, cant beat rolling road time ie set car for that car as such its so much better rather that a generic map thats gets stuck on all kinds as such,, ie can map for low down to mid range torque rather than max bhp its where the run lives and mpg etc
Mike- thanks for the tip re: vehicle check - just used it, it's very good.
with regard the mapping - I see that you are in the SW, I'm NW, but do have friends in Salcombe, so you never know, we may drive it down there and pop in
just call ask for john say spoke to me he will look after you with it he's really good mapper and tech he's just got one of those heads that know where to pull power and torque etc
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