MINI Cooper Forum banner
1 - 2 of 2 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
12,747 Posts
I had a ecu done by someone mike told me about down in plymouth sent my old one to them and had a new one returned to me with very good cpms from them and back in about 5 days all my info for keys also had my remap moved over and plugged iy in and all worked not cheap but about half the price of main dealer sorry to hear of your troubles these cars can be a pain when they go wrong
dealership just for ecu replacement is around £1500 , by time they charge a big fee for their own diagnostics ie 2-4 hours of checking stuff and ruling out everything else before pulling the parts cannon ,, must admit spent a lot of hours on yours I just take on the chin as out 10 cars I do 3 will be a nightmare so it evens out over a year ie no extra charges to sort out of old running issues as such and just the parts it needs , unlike garages they hit the owner for every hour and then some, that said if had big over heads and was doing it as my full time job things would be different,
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12,747 Posts
Hey,
I am fairly new to this forum; in fact I just registered not 5 minutes from writing this post. So, if this is not the right thread for the issue, please advise me.

Car:
  • Mini Cooper S 2006 (R53-Manual) -- First and only owner.
Problem Description:
  1. Car has been dormant for almost a year. I used to start it every month or so but circumstances forced me to leave it as is for almost 4-6 months.
  2. Almost a month ago, I decided to tune it up and fix some underlying issue. Bought a new battery(the old one couldn't keep its charge). I bought a 540A 60Ah battery. A bit oversized, but it was the closest one I could find.
  3. First few start tries, the engine cranks but doesn't start. Then it reverts to the tick, tick, tick sound, which to me indicates that the battery has been drained(concurred with multimeter)
  4. I suspected it might be one of the following:
    • Starter Motor
    • Ignition Coil/Plugs/Wires
    • Alternator
    • Fuel Pump
    • Battery
    • Ignition Switch/immobilizer
  5. To make sure, I asked a friend of mine who has an Autel scanner to come and check it. It couldn't connect.
  6. I ordered a Veepeak(OBDCheck VP01) to test it myself.
  7. The ObdCheck could not connect to the ecu; I tried various apps, all stated that ecu connection failed. Ignition was on during all tests.
  8. I visually checked the ecm and found 3 damaged pins(97, 96, 95). Image attached. View attachment 286812 View attachment 286813
  9. From various online sources I found out that pin 97 is for the main relay, and pin 95 is for ignition.
  10. I tested to see if there was any short between them, the pins seem to be isolated in a static state. I am assuming that the reason for ecm-OBD scanner recognition failure is due to a short somewhere.
  11. I checked the main relay(first one in the fuse box--engine side-K6300) and it was somewhat hot.
What I need assistance with?
  • How can I test the ECM; mainly the visually damaged pins to determine if it's functional or not?
  • What could have caused the damage? If I am forced to buy a new one, I need to make sure it doesn't happen again.
  • Is there a way to force the ECM to be recognized by the OBD Scanner? Bypassing something or externally connecting it.
  • Given my initial assumptions for the failed start and apparent power drain(point 4), is it safe to also assume that the underlying cause of the issue is the ECM pin damage? Or is it that the ECM pin damage is a result of another underlying issue?
Notes:
  • I was able to start the car by jump starting it, however, it would not hold rpm and immediately stop.
  • I changed the ignition coil, wires, and spark plugs recently.

Any feedback would be appreciated.

Cheers,
you will need a wiring harness to be on safe side just in case any wires got melted together as it will spike ecu if they are and could destroy your replacement . you were lucky was not totally gutted and took your home out as well, dont take much to get them burning , i'm always anal about such things , disconnect battery on all major jobs and ignition off when replacing sensors etc , another good lesson is when you have repaired a car before starting it turn ignition and check for fuel leaks with cars with in tank pumps before cranking them , I do this when I reset adaptions and reset codes with diagnostics as part of a I always do approach, i've had cars where missed a fuel pipe or a return pipe,, on geoffsnooks cars past owner had cut the pipe to fuel pump lucky for me I caught that because of the set process above I always use so all I had was petrol sprayed everywhere,, someone had cut the fuel pipe fitting off the fuel pump then jubilee clipped it back on the pump ,, it happens its all part of working on cars could of been worse
 
1 - 2 of 2 Posts
Top