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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My 2010 Mini Cooper S Countryman ALL4 is one of the cars that uses oil - OK, I'm fine with that, I plan to get it fixed, my mechanic tells me that he will replace the complete top cover, which includes the PCV (there is slight oil seepage around the cover, also on the tube to the turbo). I'm adding a quarter to half a litre every 800 kilometres, the car has done 89,000 kilometres, oil change done 3,000 kilometres ago. There is absolutely no oil leakage under the car, at any time.

However, the big current concern for me is that I took it for a drive yesterday and when under heavy acceleration, the red oil pressure light came on - just for a second, then went off, so I drove normally, no re-appearance, then decided to accelerate heavily again, and the red light momentarily reappeared. So, I drove normally home, about 15 minutes, all OK, I checked the oil, about 1/2 way up the dipstick, I topped it up to nearly full, and this morning, tried it again - same issue, under heavy acceleration, the red oil light appeared briefly. The oil light doesn't appear when driving under normal conditions.

Any thoughts?

I may be way off here, but I have seen a few low battery warnings recently, and will be changing that soon - is there a link to this issue there?
 

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so its a cooper s countryman will be N18 petrol prince engine and they do eat oil anyway, the oil pump is ecu controlled on that, as is thermostat ie piloted ecu controlled there is a recal on some cars for this thermo housing have seen cars getting to hot and oil suffers from it and thin out as oil is tested to 100c and prince engine runs up to 108c two things worth looking in to,
the oil usage i have seen a lot with many cars and can be down to a few things, ie like your mech says rocker cover maybe, also if engine running hotter than is good helps use oil, also timing chain stretched will cause engine to run retarded and creates more heat add all these things together and things go wonky,, also bi product of all this is carbon build up in crankcase and especially around oil control rings on the bores and also valve stem seal do to thin oil it will use oil more so, all of the above is what a typical n18 with 80.000 miles plus n18,,
i have helped the oil uses before if its only based on carbon build up by adding seafoam to engine oil and flush the system, i also then add 1/4 can to the new oil on these engines so other time ie 8k oil change next time it cleans and keeps clean,, also driving them harder helps to prevent bores from shining,, on really bad ones have put 5/40w ie a thicker oil at 100c in and that has improved things,, this all said i would seafaom it and drive it for 30 miles the first time before dropping oil and add 1/4 can to new oil maybe run it for 1k harder see if that sorts it,, worth a punt if engine is not worn out or course
 

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Many thanks, I will share this with the Mechanic... :)
i'm also time served tech he will understand what i wrote and how those engine behave,
 

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I have a recently purchased 2011 Mini Cooper at 65,000 miles and that sounds like it is roughly getting the same oil use displacement. So far -- I'm at about a 1/2 quart for every 600 miles. I carry a quart of oil in the boot. It is new-used for me; so, I may have problems that I'm not aware of. However, car is very responsive, starts easy, idles well, and runs great.

You question with symptoms I don't yet see is causing me now to want to go and check my car.

I have recently cleaned the engine compartment. I don't see any oil leaking around the value cover or timing chain area and I don't see any oil drips under the car. I've heard that a common first oil seal failure point of these cars is the oil pump. There are a bunch of sealed compartments there. I believe it is "conveniently" located in the front of the engine with no access. Did you check there? I need to check mine as well. So if you car was leaking oil there, then when you put the oil pump under "high demand" and thus "high pressure" it might exaggerate an oil leak right at the oil pump causing a loss of oil pressure, resulting in the light. Then when you get back to normal driving, the oil pressure is down enough that the oil pump can keep the pressure up high enough to compensate for the leak.
 

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My 2010 Mini Cooper S Countryman ALL4 is one of the cars that uses oil - OK, I'm fine with that, I plan to get it fixed, my mechanic tells me that he will replace the complete top cover, which includes the PCV (there is slight oil seepage around the cover, also on the tube to the turbo). I'm adding a quarter to half a litre every 800 kilometres, the car has done 89,000 kilometres, oil change done 3,000 kilometres ago. There is absolutely no oil leakage under the car, at any time.

However, the big current concern for me is that I took it for a drive yesterday and when under heavy acceleration, the red oil pressure light came on - just for a second, then went off, so I drove normally, no re-appearance, then decided to accelerate heavily again, and the red light momentarily reappeared. So, I drove normally home, about 15 minutes, all OK, I checked the oil, about 1/2 way up the dipstick, I topped it up to nearly full, and this morning, tried it again - same issue, under heavy acceleration, the red oil light appeared briefly. The oil light doesn't appear when driving under normal conditions.

Any thoughts?

I may be way off here, but I have seen a few low battery warnings recently, and will be changing that soon - is there a link to this issue there?
Look at this video. It tends to diagnose your exact issue starting with the oil filter housing and then going to the timing chain and oil pump chain.
 

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Look at this video. It tends to diagnose your exact issue starting with the oil filter housing and then going to the timing chain and oil pump chain.
wow i have heard it all now total rubbish talking total balls, on that link, just the kind of garage you would avoid like the clap. water pump tensioner has no bearing on oil system nor dose belt unless car running hot from faulty water pump or the coating has failed think in the 10 years i have been working on these engines only ever seen one jockey wheel failure on a 160k car, , the oil pump chain if were snapped or were slipping over the teeth would have a bearing on it, that chain is normal for a 60.000 miles prince engine the teeth on sprockets look fine ,, timing chain has no bearing on oil pressure unless the idle of the car has fallen below the min revs the oil pump needs to maintain pressure on idle that said i have replaced thousands of chains over the years where they were running badly but oil pressure was still there and fine as the oil pump runs off the end of crankshaft via the small chain etc,
most likely is oil over heated from bad coolant system, or some time in its life was run low on engine oil as some people think the oil should never be checked foolishly, also using wrong oil or just plain been hammered for most of its life and is worn out,
no disrespect t towards you mini is 4 me just the link will mislead people and they might spend a lot more money than whats needed to, and the fact the guy said he had to contact main stealers who still denies mini has any issues to be honest,
 

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Well I wasn't speaking specifically to pulling your entire oil pump out. That video 'builds to that point' There are thousands of threads that say that the oil seals that make up the oil filter housing are a common failure point for the Mini N14, N18 engines.

7:00 min


I've heard that a common first oil seal failure point of these cars is the oil pump. There are a bunch of sealed compartments there. I believe it is "conveniently" located in the front of the engine with no access.
SHOULD BE. I've heard that a common first oil seal failure point of these cars is the oil Filter housing.

Remember his issue is that he sees an oil pressure warning when he puts a heavy load on the engine?
 

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Mini Countryman ALL4 Cooper S
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
so its a cooper s countryman will be N18 petrol prince engine and they do eat oil anyway, the oil pump is ecu controlled on that, as is thermostat ie piloted ecu controlled there is a recal on some cars for this thermo housing have seen cars getting to hot and oil suffers from it and thin out as oil is tested to 100c and prince engine runs up to 108c two things worth looking in to,
the oil usage i have seen a lot with many cars and can be down to a few things, ie like your mech says rocker cover maybe, also if engine running hotter than is good helps use oil, also timing chain stretched will cause engine to run retarded and creates more heat add all these things together and things go wonky,, also bi product of all this is carbon build up in crankcase and especially around oil control rings on the bores and also valve stem seal do to thin oil it will use oil more so, all of the above is what a typical n18 with 80.000 miles plus n18,,
i have helped the oil uses before if its only based on carbon build up by adding seafoam to engine oil and flush the system, i also then add 1/4 can to the new oil on these engines so other time ie 8k oil change next time it cleans and keeps clean,, also driving them harder helps to prevent bores from shining,, on really bad ones have put 5/40w ie a thicker oil at 100c in and that has improved things,, this all said i would seafaom it and drive it for 30 miles the first time before dropping oil and add 1/4 can to new oil maybe run it for 1k harder see if that sorts it,, worth a punt if engine is not worn out or course
Hi Mike, quick question, as far as I can see, the Valve cover has the integrated PCV - is it possible to replace the membrane, or does the whole cover have to be replaced? I see for some types, the membrane can be replaced, but not sure for my N18.....
 

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good question dont know on n18 not done one like that always been a cover,
 

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Hi Mike, quick question, as far as I can see, the Valve cover has the integrated PCV - is it possible to replace the membrane, or does the whole cover have to be replaced? I see for some types, the membrane can be replaced, but not sure for my N18.....
Hi Tony,

I dont have a link handy sorry but if you check ebay then you are able to buy the membrane. They all seem to come from somewhere in Russia for some reason. The problem it seems is removing the cap over the membrane without breaking any of the clips that hold it in place.

Im sure I saw one that actually came with a replacement cap though so that would negate the worry of breaking the clips
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks, I seem them, also one purported to ship from the UK;



But the one from Russia looks the most professional, with the most good info;

 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Well, I replaced the valve cover cap and membrane, and no more leakage around that area, but I can still occasionally smell oil in the cabin. There is still some oil seepage around two main areas, around a large rubber pipe at the left rear side of the engine (my car is LHD) and also around a small pipe at the right front of the engine, just in front of the cover. I will post pictures tomorrow, but could the oil smell be coming from there, or is there a more usual suspect area?

The car is still using oil, but not excessively smoking....
 

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common is pcv valve as you have done, also oil filler cap rubber seal can leak best checked in dark with a torch, also the breather pipes can crack,, on n14 turbo engines it was common for oil to build up in the bottom of inlet manifold when not being rev'd and when rev'd later would get sucked in to number 1 cylinder inlet port and cause piston detonation ie it brakes apart and cat gets blocked with burnt oil, just had one with 58000 miles do this trick as well as stretched timing chain, the later n18 do same trick but have better piston rings i believe. this all said bmw say 1 litre of oil to every 1000 miles give or take 200 miles is normal in their eyes
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thanks Mike, if it was the oil filler cap, I would see oil around it, but it is clean..... I'm thinking to warm the engine up and have someone rev it, and see if I can spot any signs of oil/smoke in the engine bay.

I've attached a pic of the engine, showing where the oil film is, I don't know what those pipes are from/to, but maybe you can suggest what I can do about them<

Next step will be to replace the rocker cover, which is relative low cost and simple to do.....
276514
 
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