With the sort of engine it is, I would recommend getting the problem sorted out sooner rather than later.
i'm also time served tech he will understand what i wrote and how those engine behave,Many thanks, I will share this with the Mechanic...
Look at this video. It tends to diagnose your exact issue starting with the oil filter housing and then going to the timing chain and oil pump chain.My 2010 Mini Cooper S Countryman ALL4 is one of the cars that uses oil - OK, I'm fine with that, I plan to get it fixed, my mechanic tells me that he will replace the complete top cover, which includes the PCV (there is slight oil seepage around the cover, also on the tube to the turbo). I'm adding a quarter to half a litre every 800 kilometres, the car has done 89,000 kilometres, oil change done 3,000 kilometres ago. There is absolutely no oil leakage under the car, at any time.
However, the big current concern for me is that I took it for a drive yesterday and when under heavy acceleration, the red oil pressure light came on - just for a second, then went off, so I drove normally, no re-appearance, then decided to accelerate heavily again, and the red light momentarily reappeared. So, I drove normally home, about 15 minutes, all OK, I checked the oil, about 1/2 way up the dipstick, I topped it up to nearly full, and this morning, tried it again - same issue, under heavy acceleration, the red oil light appeared briefly. The oil light doesn't appear when driving under normal conditions.
I may be way off here, but I have seen a few low battery warnings recently, and will be changing that soon - is there a link to this issue there?
wow i have heard it all now total rubbish talking total balls, on that link, just the kind of garage you would avoid like the clap. water pump tensioner has no bearing on oil system nor dose belt unless car running hot from faulty water pump or the coating has failed think in the 10 years i have been working on these engines only ever seen one jockey wheel failure on a 160k car, , the oil pump chain if were snapped or were slipping over the teeth would have a bearing on it, that chain is normal for a 60.000 miles prince engine the teeth on sprockets look fine ,, timing chain has no bearing on oil pressure unless the idle of the car has fallen below the min revs the oil pump needs to maintain pressure on idle that said i have replaced thousands of chains over the years where they were running badly but oil pressure was still there and fine as the oil pump runs off the end of crankshaft via the small chain etc,Look at this video. It tends to diagnose your exact issue starting with the oil filter housing and then going to the timing chain and oil pump chain.
SHOULD BE. I've heard that a common first oil seal failure point of these cars is the oil Filter housing.I've heard that a common first oil seal failure point of these cars is the oil pump. There are a bunch of sealed compartments there. I believe it is "conveniently" located in the front of the engine with no access.
Hi Mike, quick question, as far as I can see, the Valve cover has the integrated PCV - is it possible to replace the membrane, or does the whole cover have to be replaced? I see for some types, the membrane can be replaced, but not sure for my N18.....so its a cooper s countryman will be N18 petrol prince engine and they do eat oil anyway, the oil pump is ecu controlled on that, as is thermostat ie piloted ecu controlled there is a recal on some cars for this thermo housing have seen cars getting to hot and oil suffers from it and thin out as oil is tested to 100c and prince engine runs up to 108c two things worth looking in to,
the oil usage i have seen a lot with many cars and can be down to a few things, ie like your mech says rocker cover maybe, also if engine running hotter than is good helps use oil, also timing chain stretched will cause engine to run retarded and creates more heat add all these things together and things go wonky,, also bi product of all this is carbon build up in crankcase and especially around oil control rings on the bores and also valve stem seal do to thin oil it will use oil more so, all of the above is what a typical n18 with 80.000 miles plus n18,,
i have helped the oil uses before if its only based on carbon build up by adding seafoam to engine oil and flush the system, i also then add 1/4 can to the new oil on these engines so other time ie 8k oil change next time it cleans and keeps clean,, also driving them harder helps to prevent bores from shining,, on really bad ones have put 5/40w ie a thicker oil at 100c in and that has improved things,, this all said i would seafaom it and drive it for 30 miles the first time before dropping oil and add 1/4 can to new oil maybe run it for 1k harder see if that sorts it,, worth a punt if engine is not worn out or course
Hi Tony,Hi Mike, quick question, as far as I can see, the Valve cover has the integrated PCV - is it possible to replace the membrane, or does the whole cover have to be replaced? I see for some types, the membrane can be replaced, but not sure for my N18.....