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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys, I'm trying to fix an obd port issue. I have no connection to my engine to be able to read codes (I can read driver, chassis and body but not engine and the EML light comes on and off periodically). I have used my multimeter to test the pins in the obd, but I'm not sure what I'm doing.... Please see the attached image, essentially I want to know what the grey/white wire does as that's the only one that does nothing lol

Thanks for your help guys :)

Jonny


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Discussion Starter #2
Ok i have found the grey whie wire and what it does..... i now assume this is not the culprit. Surely if i am reading the attached wiring diagram correctly the wire(s) that is faulty has to be the either the Violet/White or the White/Red as they are the only ones that connect to the ECU/DME how do i go about testing these with a multimeter??
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Also was wondering if this is the correct wiring diagram, should the white red carry a voltage?
 

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Ok i have found the grey whie wire and what it does..... i now assume this is not the culprit. Surely if i am reading the attached wiring diagram correctly the wire(s) that is faulty has to be the either the Violet/White or the White/Red as they are the only ones that connect to the ECU/DME how do i go about testing these with a multimeter??
the only test is by finding each end of the wire from ecu to diagnostics plug on ohms resistance ie it bleeps when touch the probes together to show completed circuit, part of the diagnostics plug wiring will run on can bus
http://wtxmc.org/MiniCooperDocs/BUS SYSTEM.pdf
above link so some wires do not run voltage as such they run code to and from ecu.s and or diagnostic equipment,, sending a voltage up one by mistake will fry it all big time seen this where people have try'd wiring in tow bar electrics without running a can bus relay controller,, if messing with this and by sounds of it this is where the issues are disconnected battery and only use resistance as way of testing a circuit,, correct way at this point would be a oscilloscope as this will show what the can bus network is doing in real time and when without adding voltage,,
i hate to say it but it would seem your coming to a point where either remove dash strip wiring from socket all way to where it meets other connectors, or find the pinouts from the ecu to socket and replace each wire with a new one but you will need the pinouts from ecu back i dont have that info
 

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Discussion Starter #5
the only test is by finding each end of the wire from ecu to diagnostics plug on ohms resistance ie it bleeps when touch the probes together to show completed circuit, part of the diagnostics plug wiring will run on can bus
http://wtxmc.org/MiniCooperDocs/BUS SYSTEM.pdf
above link so some wires do not run voltage as such they run code to and from ecu.s and or diagnostic equipment,, sending a voltage up one by mistake will fry it all big time seen this where people have try'd wiring in tow bar electrics without running a can bus relay controller,, if messing with this and by sounds of it this is where the issues are disconnected battery and only use resistance as way of testing a circuit,, correct way at this point would be a oscilloscope as this will show what the can bus network is doing in real time and when without adding voltage,,
i hate to say it but it would seem your coming to a point where either remove dash strip wiring from socket all way to where it meets other connectors, or find the pinouts from the ecu to socket and replace each wire with a new one but you will need the pinouts from ecu back i dont have that info
I see.... Well that's going to be hard to test.... I have the majority of the dash out. Then I can start chasing the wiring... Although maybe I should just pay someone to do it :( just don't have the Wong and the car will be off the road for months... If I do it myself though I may not be clever enough :( also although I have the majority of the dash out I cannot get the top dash panel off!! I've removed the four bolts under the plastic panels at either door, the 6 in the windscreen vents, the 2 above the speedometer, the 2 behind the rev counter l, and the 4 above the glove box/below the airbag. What am I missing??? I cannot find anymore bolts!!

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I see.... Well that's going to be hard to test.... I have the majority of the dash out. Then I can start chasing the wiring... Although maybe I should just pay someone to do it :( just don't have the Wong and the car will be off the road for months... If I do it myself though I may not be clever enough :( also although I have the majority of the dash out I cannot get the top dash panel off!! I've removed the four bolts under the plastic panels at either door, the 6 in the windscreen vents, the 2 above the speedometer, the 2 behind the rev counter l, and the 4 above the glove box/below the airbag. What am I missing??? I cannot find anymore bolts!!

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its not so much being clever anything can be learned,, its buying and learning the correct tools to hunt down faults like this,, even in most garages when it looks like its a can bus digital problem as this would seem to be this kind of job would be farmed out to a specialist.. after checking the wires them selves for breaks ie from one end to the other, as fo dash i've never removed one,, ring up mini ask if can have a prts print off for all components for dash ask them to email it to you as there are some parts you need but need to work out what for some reason
 

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Discussion Starter #7
So the Mini is now on garage number 4 wooo! and the good news is.... they cant fix it either.... So far i have spent, nothing at the first, (they told me they didn't have the technology for it) 20 at the first for a diagnostic, 470 at the 3rd + they told me it was the alternator and the battery (220 in parts) and the fourth its cost £180 (so far) they also cannot find the problem, they have checked continuity on the hole ecu, they have checked all the obd wiring, and cannot find anything, they have removed modules, they even remove the k line wire and ran another wire to the appropriate port on the ecu, and still nothing, just as all the other garages... they can read all modules except the engine codes :( I am at a complete loss on this now. I dont know where to take it or what to do with it :(
 

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So the Mini is now on garage number 4 wooo! and the good news is.... they cant fix it either.... So far i have spent, nothing at the first, (they told me they didn't have the technology for it) 20 at the first for a diagnostic, 470 at the 3rd + they told me it was the alternator and the battery (220 in parts) and the fourth its cost £180 (so far) they also cannot find the problem, they have checked continuity on the hole ecu, they have checked all the obd wiring, and cannot find anything, they have removed modules, they even remove the k line wire and ran another wire to the appropriate port on the ecu, and still nothing, just as all the other garages... they can read all modules except the engine codes :( I am at a complete loss on this now. I dont know where to take it or what to do with it :(
this guy he's called dale he's a car electrical engineer absolutely the best guy i have ever found, 07807222262 give him a ring he will prob know there to start with it, he's got all the gear to clone and write ecu's above any garage,,
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Does anyone know if one of these would cure my problem? theoretically i assume it would bypass the obd port in a sense and just be read via usb?

Thanks

jon
 

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would class that as a competition ecu to allow stand alone tuning but if you have already fitted a cloned ecu before to your car cant see this will do any thing different, from what you have had done your car should be working fine if everything was done correctly. try that number speak to dale if he cant fix then its knackered
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Hi Mike thanks for your reply :) I have spoken to Dale and he said there is nothing he can do without seeing the car and he's over 5 hours away from me :( I was hoping that with ECU I linked above it would replace the need of the obd port as it connects via usb?.... at this rate i think i may have to buy another mini and donor all my parts over :( but i just really want to fix mine if i can!!

thanks again,

Jon
 

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My guess, and it is only that, is there’s an issue where wires join in the loom.

Looking at the wiring diagram I’d check the violet and white wire as it appears to have a join (where in the loom I do not know).

I say this as I had an issue with the wiring loom on my Mini, but to the fuel level senders (there are two, one of which read full which was no signal). The common Earth was joined in the loom by the rear passengers feet (silly place). Over time one wire simply came out of the crimp Connector (yes they crimp the wires not solder them).

See if you can find this join as it appears to have connections to the engine module. A bulge or branch in the loom is a good place to check. I suspect it passes through the bulkhead at some point too.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I'll have a hunt around my plan over the holiday is to chase that wire from start to finish, every garage so far has told me they have, however not one of them has removed the wadding that groups the wires together so i cant see how this can be correct? Just really want to get this sorted now :( im so gutted with the mini and i really don't want to be.

thanks,

Jon
 

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All cars cause problems, it’s worth sticking at it though. I agree how can they have traced the wire if they didn’t break in to the loom. Check and junctions or bulges for connections or breaks. I flunked finding mine, but checked a bulge and the issue was obvious.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Yea that's what i'm hoping, i do find it strange though that 5 garages have checked the wiring supposedly and said there is nothing wrong. What i want to do over the holiday is check the entire length of cable and also disconnect the modules attached in the image (circled in manly pink). If I have the locations of them and what I need to do that would be great! As a side note I have changed the dials (instrument cluster) as everything to the left of the dials is fine.... everything to the right cannot be connected to, seems logical but didn't work :(

thanks again guys,

Jon
 

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Discussion Starter #18
some kinda unrelated good news on the mini! so my thinking that the supercharger pulley making the eml light come on was incorrect...... turns out that the crank pulley has broken! was at the garage having a 17% put on but when they took the belt off the crank pulley was broken! this explains the lack of power and stuff!! Anyway on the Orranje website, lightened crank pulley +2 and 5% alternator pulley. so hopefully once all fitted the car will run and drive again.... then its just a matter of fixing the ecu wiring issue, but at least it will be driveable!
 

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Runs fine now the crank pulley is done!! Tis perfect... Just need to sort the obd issue now!

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