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My daughter has a 2010 Mini non turbo with the 1.6l engine. We run synthetic oil in it. She bought the car 1 year ago had 88,000 miles on it and it has used oil from that time. She parks in the same spot on concrete daily and there is no dripping at all, no oil leaks that can be seen from underneath the car either. The car does not smoke when you crank it nor does it smoke going down the road because I followed her the other day to see. She will use 1 to 1 1\2 quart of oil in 1000 miles. Any thoughts?
 

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My daughter has a 2010 Mini non turbo with the 1.6l engine. We run synthetic oil in it. She bought the car 1 year ago had 88,000 miles on it and it has used oil from that time. She parks in the same spot on concrete daily and there is no dripping at all, no oil leaks that can be seen from underneath the car either. The car does not smoke when you crank it nor does it smoke going down the road because I followed her the other day to see. She will use 1 to 1 1\2 quart of oil in 1000 miles. Any thoughts?
mini main dealers say this is normal, that said i rebuilt our turbo car around 1000 miles ago and that has use no oil in that time but i did use better piston rings than factory one were and it runs on 5/40w fully synthetic oil as well
 

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Another option (Mike1967, correct me if I'm wrong) is to flush your engine - I hear Seafoam is recommended..... I have a 2010 Cooper S with 96,000kms, and was using a lot of oil (with no smoke and limited leakage but no drips), and I decided to get it done - my technician was astonished at the amount of gunk in the engine, so he flushed it twice, and even dropped some of the treatment into the spark plug holes and left it there overnight (to clean the valves). Since then, I've used barely any oil.

Also, how many miles has she done since she bought it, and when was the oil last changed? With Mini's, its quite important to replace the oil regularly (every 5k) and when changing the oil, remove the sump tray and clean up the oil mesh guard (I think the non-turbo as it).
 

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Another option (Mike1967, correct me if I'm wrong) is to flush your engine - I hear Seafoam is recommended..... I have a 2010 Cooper S with 96,000kms, and was using a lot of oil (with no smoke and limited leakage but no drips), and I decided to get it done - my technician was astonished at the amount of gunk in the engine, so he flushed it twice, and even dropped some of the treatment into the spark plug holes and left it there overnight (to clean the valves). Since then, I've used barely any oil.

Also, how many miles has she done since she bought it, and when was the oil last changed? With Mini's, its quite important to replace the oil regularly (every 5k) and when changing the oil, remove the sump tray and clean up the oil mesh guard (I think the non-turbo as it).
that seafoam works a treat dont it, deffo worth doing and will fix engines using oil when its a dirt and carbon built up reasons,, i've been running my cooper s on 5/40w fully synthetic oil and since rebuild ie 1000 miles its used zero oil and been hammered a few times,, i did do away with coated piston rings and hone the bores and set piston ring gaps under 0.10m to the bores,, old rings after 60,000 miles were all over 0.30mm ans was using a lot of oil,, joys of dirty oil and bad service on these engines will end them faster for for sure,
 

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Well, I actually didn't use Seafoam, I couldn't get any here (in the Czech Republic) :) , so my mechanic used another recommended type, but it still worked very well.

FYI (OP), although I had the oil changed when we bought the car (about 9 months ago), when the (different) mechanic started investigating the oil usage (about 3-ish months ago), he was shocked at how much gunk was in the engine, and how bad the oil quality was (after only 6,000 km after the oil change) - the working parts were brown with coating and there were brown/black deposits everywehere - my point being that not only should engine oil be replaced regularly, but if you buy a used Mini, its probably a good idea to flush the engine and drop a bit of the flush in the spark plug holes and leave overnight
 

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would check the thermostat housing and live data the running temps have seen cars where the housing is under performing runs engine at max 112c all the time and this causes excess heat and cooks the oil and when oil gets so hot its steams as such it causes more black burn crud build up, i've noticed this over the years and many cars to point where i can tell the ones that run hot,, when on road cool day 50mph they should stay around 80-95c increase on long hills upwards and cool no less than 80c down wards say off load, if you find down hill temps get under 70c housing faulty sticking same as if temps change randomly same thing,, there is a updated housing genuine or febi bilsteen is good that dealt with these issues as very common
 
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