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Discussion Starter #22
Not yet.
I've managed to obtain the correct cam journal diameter data, so from there I can work out if the head is worn.
Oil pressure is 30 psi hot at idle, so I don't think pressure is the problem.
I've also bought a digital protractor to check the cam locking tool has set the cams correctly.
I scoped the engine and compared results with a known good car. The cam position sensor profile was identical to the other car, but the vanos solenoid profile was not. This could be due to incorrect timing, so until I measure the cam timing I'm not looking at this too much.
Should know more next week.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Fixed!! But expensive.
Ok, I thought I should post this as a conclusion to my issue, as so many people seem to have the P0014 / P0015 fault codes without a fix.
Having been through the whole vanos system component by component I came to the conclusion that the camshaft bearing nearest to the exhaust vanos oilway had worn, causing oil to spill out rather than drive the exhaust vanos. By turning the engine over, oil could be seen spilling out of the bearing next to the vanos feed at a much greater rate than the other bearings. Plastigage showed a clearance of 4 thou plus, which is too much. Using plastigage on a good head the clearance is 2.5 thou, and across the whole bearing surface.
So I too the plunge and bought a recon head. Bingo! problem solved.
There are lots of system tests that can be done to pin this issue down, but at the end of the day even the most sophisticated computer readers wont say the head needs replacement.
If you have the Vanos fault codes and the diagnostic equipment doesn't definitively pin down to the problem, it is possible to fault test the system components, rather than replacing components until the problem is fixed!
The vanos sprocket can be dismantled and inspected. The vanos solenoid can be bench tested. The camshaft sensors can be scoped. The ECU output to vanos solenoid can also be scoped; but if Vanos sprockets aren't moving the reading will be the same as the reading with ignition on, engine off. It is also possible to check oil pressure by making a simple adaptor.
 

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Fixed!! But expensive.
Ok, I thought I should post this as a conclusion to my issue, as so many people seem to have the P0014 / P0015 fault codes without a fix.
Having been through the whole vanos system component by component I came to the conclusion that the camshaft bearing nearest to the exhaust vanos oilway had worn, causing oil to spill out rather than drive the exhaust vanos. By turning the engine over, oil could be seen spilling out of the bearing next to the vanos feed at a much greater rate than the other bearings. Plastigage showed a clearance of 4 thou plus, which is too much. Using plastigage on a good head the clearance is 2.5 thou, and across the whole bearing surface.
So I too the plunge and bought a recon head. Bingo! problem solved.
There are lots of system tests that can be done to pin this issue down, but at the end of the day even the most sophisticated computer readers wont say the head needs replacement.
If you have the Vanos fault codes and the diagnostic equipment doesn't definitively pin down to the problem, it is possible to fault test the system components, rather than replacing components until the problem is fixed!
The vanos sprocket can be dismantled and inspected. The vanos solenoid can be bench tested. The camshaft sensors can be scoped. The ECU output to vanos solenoid can also be scoped; but if Vanos sprockets aren't moving the reading will be the same as the reading with ignition on, engine off. It is also possible to check oil pressure by making a simple adaptor.
if that bearing is worn out on a under 100k car chances are its been driven with low oil at some point or lack of oil changes, also for others reading this there's a revised oil control ring for camshafts ie changed from metal to a carbon plastic, dont hurt the cam journal as the metal ones will, happy days fixed
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Yes, i'm sure it had and this was probably compounded by the chain tensioner / chain guide failure.

Now I've just got code 2FE7 to look at. This one is really curious. There is absolutely no abnormalities in the way the starter and start / stop operate, and whilst I know this is related to the starter I don't know what is actually being measured. Any clues?
 

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Yes, i'm sure it had and this was probably compounded by the chain tensioner / chain guide failure.

Now I've just got code 2FE7 to look at. This one is really curious. There is absolutely no abnormalities in the way the starter and start / stop operate, and whilst I know this is related to the starter I don't know what is actually being measured. Any clues?
starter motor/solenoid maybe getting tired so reacting slower than prescribed. would be worth popping it out and clean it and spray freeing oil first then some grease on the slider for the bendix ie the sprocket part that engages with the flywheel, chances are of use start stop alot the motor needs a refurb unit ,, rule of thumb a car used in built up area most of life ie start stop driving tend to do a starter motor around 60-80- where a motorway car will still be fine at 130k ,
the other thing that plays up is the CAS unit link below explains this bmw design crockofpoo, really do hope its not the second thing,
https://www.sinspeed.co.uk/cas3-immobiliser-repair/
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Bendix shaft very grubby and stiff to move slider up it.
Cleaned it up and applied some graphite powder. Job done!
Armature and brushes look very good.
Cars done 90K, mainly rural driving.
 

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Bendix shaft very grubby and stiff to move slider up it.
Cleaned it up and applied some graphite powder. Job done!
Armature and brushes look very good.
Cars done 90K, mainly rural driving.
rural cars and motorway cars are always better than start stop city driving i have found mechanical like one speed and to be run non stop, hopefully it will stay fixed now,
 
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