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Possible Oil pan leak?

889 Views 7 Replies 2 Participants Last post by  mike1967
I have had a slight leak for a while so today I put some leak detection fluid into my engine and there was no visible leaks from the top of the engine, only from the bottom of the oil pan where the longer bolts connect to the gear box?
Is this likely to be a oil pan gasket issue?
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likely rear crankshaft oil seal could poke a camera on a cable up in there have a look at rear of flywheel so if wet with oil or not, like you say could also be sump leaking worth dropping it cleaning it off and reseal it with sealant , i use the elring grey sealant these days as it sets hard after a few hot to cold runs,
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I was thinking that myself after doing a bit more research last night. It just looks a right pain to get to for such a little washer to replace but if it's got to be done it's it to be done I suppose.
rubber and plastic only last for around 8 years common add the heat oil that effects it, thats a gearbox out flywheel off would do clutch at same time
I had a reconditioned gearbox put in about 1 year ago so i had a new clutch fitted then. I guess they didn't put a new rear crankshaft seal in then.
on invoice for gearbox and clutch was there any mention of new stretch bolts for flywheel and prob best part of hour and half extra time taken to replace the seal by time pull flywheel and get it done. thats the trouble it all mounts up and some garages get slated for going off on their own level of what to replace and charge the customer for, also have seen jobs where replacement engine put in and the vendor of engine gives a 3 months warranty but dictates must not be altered etc otherwise the warranty is no good,,, catch twenty two you can get away with replacing a timing belt just within this and they know it and use any excuse to avoid any warranty claims etc as would say a gearbox change to a point. i would poke a camera up there see what can be seen, would also check crankcase breathing pressures are to high might have sticking rings causing it and engine flush and seafoam might cure it also if dirty seal same thing might cure it i have done this to many engines and some do come back right again after can also use stuff called STOP LEAK, worth a punt or bite the bullet and put new genuine oil seal in
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I think I am going have to bite the bullet and replace the seal. (Off work at the moment on lockdown so plenty of time to do it)

While I am there I may aswel replace

Pan seal
Crankshaft sensor O-ring
Stretch bolts for flywheel

Is there anything else you would recommend replacing while it's all off?

Thank you for your help
sounds like you have done the rest of it, would say if its never had a clutch fork done would deffo replace it now as they do bend or crack with higher miles and years old, if got deeper pockets clutch slave and master dont do much past 100k 15 years,, would also stick some molyslip in gearbox helps them a lot of those gearboxes
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