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Discussion Starter #1
Hi
Back with another problem the car has lost power like the turbo is not boosting but it is intermittent, starts fine but just no boost some of the time. Have now used autocom and it says no codes found and no lights warning lights when it happens Any ideas?
Stu
 

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Hi
Back with another problem the car has lost power like the turbo is not boosting but it is intermittent, starts fine but just no boost some of the time. Have now used autocom and it says no codes found and no lights warning lights when it happens Any ideas?
Stu
i had a few times with different 1.6hdi was fuel filter ever time,
little tip on changing it on them below link very handy sucker tool for priming filter takes 10 minutes to do filter change and bleed it, ie put sucker on the outlet of filter with the fuel in pipe on and suck the fuel through until no air the reclip to pipe, easy job,
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Oil-suction-pump-500-ml-300-mm-hose-fluid-syringe-sucker-gun-extractor-vacuum/263954792163?epid=1663746041&hash=item3d74ee7ee3:g:9sUAAOSwSVdbqE4B
fuel filter delphi type good filters, some of cheaper ones tend to restrict flow its would seem
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fuel-Filter-fits-MINI-COOPER-1-6D-06-to-10-Delphi-13327804958-133278O4958-New/332536821398?fits=Car+Make:Mini|Cars+Type:Cooper+D&epid=27017004745&hash=item4d6cbd3696:g:O1UAAOSwObhabzE3
with autocom on live data you can select fuel rail pressure and drive car to make it do what its doing,, i found it would drive fine around town and no hard loads but when i treied pushing the revs up 3k plus for more than a few minutes it would get slower and slower,, if you keep pushing ot until it does end up at idle or cut then a fuel pressure code will flag up
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for your reply Mike
Fuel filter has done less than 8k do you still think that could be the problem?
Stu
 

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Thanks for your reply Mike
Fuel filter has done less than 8k do you still think that could be the problem?
Stu
i've had them before where fail low miles on cheaper brands and if use seafoam or injection cleaner can do it or super market fuel might have a effect on them.. i must admit when mine done it its was a couple pf fuel tanks after i had used a cleaner on the system , and had same kind of thing as yours no codes until it would not rev at all, as the system monitors pressure and not do much flow so fact its got pressure as that what a blocked filter creates the car ecu done realise it until its no flow or near to it would seem,
i would check your turbo is giving pressure and egr valve is open and closing when it should via autocom, the egr valve should close when engine rev'd hard and open when idle more so
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Engine will rev ok with no load and will rev through gears slowly and hills are a no go. Have ordered a filter so will try that first.
Thanks
 

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Just thought I have a new EGR valve somewhere, will dig it out and get it fitted, that needs something doing with autocom doesn't it?
 

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Just thought I have a new EGR valve somewhere, will dig it out and get it fitted, that needs something doing with autocom doesn't it?
yes egr can be programmed with autocom on first screen select diesel then connect to car, then clear any codes, then after that the crossed tool box on left hand payne then a top of screen will have a drop down list with a ok button on it select egr off that list and follow on screen instructions. i would also reset maf on that list and bypass so car relearns it all
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thought I'd leave it a while after replacing the fuel filter to see if it happened again. Unfortunately it did and this time I got a code 4530.
Just feels like the turbo isn't doing anything .
Any help would be great
Thanks Stu
 

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Thought I'd leave it a while after replacing the fuel filter to see if it happened again. Unfortunately it did and this time I got a code 4530.
Just feels like the turbo isn't doing anything .
Any help would be great
Thanks Stu
yep your right now got a code for it its turbo related,
below link is for bmw and different turbo system but a lot of the details stand for yours as well, the controller valve lives at rear of engine above the drive shaft on back of engine a total pain in arse to get at, can get at it from top remove airbox, the link shows what ot looks like, it has a vent pipe with a filter in it sometimes the foam gets blocked and effects the valve, new valve europarts £60 ish,
need to know you have vac feed from pump on side of engine using that hand pup thing should be able to see what pressure its got 14-25psi is about what it is,
after that the vac pump on the vnt actuator and pump suck pressure to 14 psi ish the lever should move to the bump stop and just hit it around this pressure,, better still make note of the pressure out of vac pump and set the vnt 3psi under it to be on safe side worth a punt,,
would also check the turbo turbine is happy no big movements and its not a bearing problem within the turbo
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1066141
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks Mike
Felt for end play on the turbo but felt none and no nasty noises from it. As soon as you start the engine the actuator/wastegate pulls down to the stop so It is getting vacuum. Will try and get a valve, looked down the back of the engine to follow the pipes but couldn't see the valve as you say must be a pain in the arse.
Cars don't you just love em.
Cheers Stu
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Well it's nearly been a month and just over 1000 miles since fitting the new valve, don't want to tempt fate but it hasn't played up again. Even passed the MOT today with just 1 advisory, better than last year.
Thanks for the advice.

Stu
 

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Well it's nearly been a month and just over 1000 miles since fitting the new valve, don't want to tempt fate but it hasn't played up again. Even passed the MOT today with just 1 advisory, better than last year.
Thanks for the advice.

Stu
ideal glad its sorted bloody cars mine spat its pipe just after the turbo on boost side the other day blown a hole in it,, genuine part only £55, i fitted new one and done a live data run on the boost ie run it up the road and see where the boost goes at 3k then floor it to 4500 revs i had 2600mlb (36psi ish) of boost to high,, then forced a regen on it seems to have come back down now to where it should be, think vnt on turbo had stuck from carbon soot build up and caused a over boost, looks like i need to replace the filter and clean turbo out with seafoam me thinks, bloody cars
 

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Discussion Starter #16
It is never ending was hoping that valve was the reason there's no boost below 2k nut sadly not.
It's not only cars though, my front door lock failed with the door locked. If it's not one thing it's the other.
 

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It is never ending was hoping that valve was the reason there's no boost below 2k nut sadly not.
It's not only cars though, my front door lock failed with the door locked. If it's not one thing it's the other.
no low down power have you tried pulling plug on the maff sensor and driving up road see if sorts it out if it does then maff sensor. also on turbo vnt making the rod shorter should bake car boost sooner ie should be set to neg vac 15psi ish but it seems some react better with a higher figure,, this wont effect the level of boost thats controlled via the ecu via map sensor. both my clubmans had turbo's and dpf done and both made good low down boost,
i know bloody cars i have to go through mine soon see what it needs starting to feel some slight slack noises in the running gear looking forward to that,,, not,,, lol as when i start i always end up doing it all as like that new car feeling you get after for a while
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I haven't tried unplugging the MAF but have adjusted the actuator length between 14 &17 on the hand pump, drives a lot better at 14 can't remember if that's shorter or longer. Will try MAF next but have to sort a which wheel bearing needs doing on my Astra and the coolant leak on the Mrs R50. Really don't have time to work as well LOL
Cheers Stu
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Had 10 minutes spare so unplugged the MAFF. Pulled better low down but struggled to rev. Connected again and drives better than before but not what I would expect. Is that the car relearning ?
 

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Had 10 minutes spare so unplugged the MAFF. Pulled better low down but struggled to rev. Connected again and drives better than before but not what I would expect. Is that the car relearning ?
yep its car relearning just gave the ecu a nudge as such, i would guess form that the maff sensor is at its end of life, they seem to get around the 60k and just go out of spec as the hot film inside gets dirty and corrodes a tad it changes the resistances,,

the pain in arse bit is they are not that cheap for a branded one thats needed, i have tried many cheap ones over the years and they never last of turn up plug in and car stops running very well,
febi bilsteen do a fair price ok one, bear in mind everything the engines does is based on the reading this sensor gives as its the beginning of all as such, after fit new one just reset the adaptions in the autocom ie everything except the dpf filter stuff on that screen
genuine peiburg sensor

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pierburg-MAF-Mass-Air-Flow-Meter-Sensor-7-28342-06-0-GENUINE-5-YEAR-WARRANTY/153274012772?epid=249552262&hash=item23afd7d464:g:uyEAAOSw~XZb9~kN
 
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