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Hi Alan, i was always wondering why the pump fails and you have found it, i have to say this is amazing and thank you for sharing this useful information.
a few photos would be great if you can please.
Thanks
Regards
 

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How to fix a power steering pump

The photo's
The first shows the brush plate after I have refitted and soldered the 4 connections.
second is under the fluid pump, you have to remove the circlip and drift out this shaft.
So split the case first then remove the circlip and drift out the shaft, get ready to catch the armature assy and don't let it drop.
third shown the armature (oposite end from the circlip) after removing case

last shows the computer after cleaning, the carbon dust is very sticky and can't be blown or brushed off, you need some solvent but keep it away from the bush bearing in the centre
 

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Excellent, there are some photos on TotalMini (see link below) but I think yours is the first to detail how to clean and access the electronics/computer part of the pump in detail, which often seems to cause the problems. I will have a spare pump to rebuild in the next couple of weeks so this will be a useful reference. Thanks again for sharing. :)

ADVICE THREAD: Power Steering Pump Failures - totalMINI Forums
 

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WISH i seen this post sooner :( only just replaced my power steering pump with a reconditioned pump from BAA Reman @ £200! If I had any tell tale signs that the pump was going to break I would have taken it out and cleaned up as best I could to save on buying a new one.

This is why this web site is so usefull !
 

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stuff

Im about to use that bba-reman place but only because there is a leak on the PS pump. I hear a moaning noise when turning the wheel but its mainly because the fluid has been low. I would prefer to try and fix the pump from leaking if at all possible, anyboby have any ideas of where the fluid could be coming from? Havent totally pulled it out yet but should have it out this weekend.
 

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this is the great thing about the web a simple search and all the answers. Alan thanks for the detailed instructions on disassembly and cleaning have already had the pump apart on my 03 cooper once found one of the main terminals had corroded and snapped had repaired that and cleaned the stator/rotor section of the motor, that area was full of carbon dust, but had not removed the brush plate and cleaned the control boards. have refitted to the car and the pump runs initially for a few miles but then stops or operates intermittently. I'm going to remove again strip and clean properly will post the results when the job is done.
 

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The photo's
The first shows the brush plate after I have refitted and soldered the 4 connections.
second is under the fluid pump, you have to remove the circlip and drift out this shaft.
So split the case first then remove the circlip and drift out the shaft, get ready to catch the armature assy and don't let it drop.
third shown the armature (oposite end from the circlip) after removing case

last shows the computer after cleaning, the carbon dust is very sticky and can't be blown or brushed off, you need some solvent but keep it away from the bush bearing in the centre
ive seperated the pump and removed the circlip but cant seem to remove the armaratre???? any help?
 

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ive seperated the pump and removed the circlip but cant seem to remove the armaratre???? any help?
You need to gently tap the end of the shaft taking care not to damage the key that drives the pump. It's a long time since I dismantled my pump, I don't remember it being particularly difficult to drive the shaft through the pump end plate.

Good luck
 

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I sat the motor casing over a large vice with the armature dangling, then with a few taps on the shaft the armature fell free, get ready to catch it. you should place a piece of wood over the shaft if it's tight.

cheers alan
 

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thanks guys...i eventually got it removed by having to be a bit brutal with it....i also took it apart and cleaned the electonic bit...the pump is back on the car now and working fantasticlly, just waiting to drive it some more...i have taken lots of pictures and hope to write a full diy for anyone esle who decides to recon thier pump.

let it be known that even though pulsey advised that it is a professenals job, mechanically "minded" ppl could also easily pull this off.
 

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Hi Jon, did you ever write up a full diy?

Im thinking of taking mine off and cleaning it to avoid having to buy another, it has got very noisy!
 

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Burned out computer module

Pulsey, Thanks for the great pics and guide. As you can see from my pics, I was too late. The ingress of commutator dust shows up red on the preamp board. Yours and many other posts have identified the same cause of failure.
The electronics are not adequately isolated from the motor unit. Although the exit holes for the power connections are quite small, they can clearly allow the metallic dust through. The lacquering is pretty ropey, If I prod about with a continuity tester I can easily make connections on the exposed tinned surfaces. Hopefully I can send the whole motor off for a rebuild. That is, unless anyone can supply the module alone. I will use the appropriate thread (not this one) to vent my frustration with BMW service.
It seems obvious that this pathology is an inevitable outcome of the flawed design, and yet customers are having to fork out £900 for a solution.
Sorry I started venting......
 

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and yet customers are having to fork out £900 for a solution.
Sorry I started venting......
Thanks for the pics and write up. No one in their right mind needs to fork out £900 for a main dealer solution............cheaper pumps with warranty are now widely available and any good independent garage can fit it for a couple of hours labour if you don't do diy.
 

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Pulsey, Thanks for the great pics and guide. As you can see from my pics, I was too late. The ingress of commutator dust shows up red on the preamp board. Yours and many other posts have identified the same cause of failure.
The electronics are not adequately isolated from the motor unit. Although the exit holes for the power connections are quite small, they can clearly allow the metallic dust through. The lacquering is pretty ropey, If I prod about with a continuity tester I can easily make connections on the exposed tinned surfaces. Hopefully I can send the whole motor off for a rebuild. That is, unless anyone can supply the module alone. I will use the appropriate thread (not this one) to vent my frustration with BMW service.
It seems obvious that this pathology is an inevitable outcome of the flawed design, and yet customers are having to fork out £900 for a solution.
Sorry I started venting......
Thanks and well done !!!


As you say all that is needed now is a source (at the right price) for replacement control modules.
 

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Thanks for the pics and write up. No one in their right mind needs to fork out £900 for a main dealer solution............cheaper pumps with warranty are now widely available and any good independent garage can fit it for a couple of hours labour if you don't do diy.
Quite So: I got a used pump for £70 on eBay. It was sold as working, but nonetheless, I stripped it down for a thorough clean. The computer module was absolutely full of crud but still intact and functional. I didnt get time for photos..... but the lacquer coat was much thicker and better distributed than on my failed unit (photographed earlier)
I seperated the electronics completely, brushed the debris for the PCBs with iso-propyl alchohol. Re-assemnbled then put some araldite in the holes where the 4 power feeds (now soldered to the brush terminals) pass through the shroud.
So far so good, and I sent the original (with the burned out module) to ECU to end up with a re-furbished spare.
 

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this is great!!.. i couldve used this info a few hours ago lol... I being overly curious decided today to take apart the pump in my wifes car, from the pics its probably good i didnt have the right torx bit and could only get one side off.. when the cover flew off due to the magnetic force(which i had no idea was going to happen because i had no idea what can of worms i was opening) a huge cloud of dust erupted in my face. coughing and blind i ran out of the shop... ha ha.. when the dust settled, i could finally see what the hell mess i caused and wow.. its a magneto thing.. that cant be conducting electricity covered in dust. i dumped out probably 1/2 a cup of this asphixiating purple dust wiped the contacts banged it around to get more dust out, wiped more and put it back together. Bam!! the steering works, for now.. when it goes out again ill give it a proper clean like you have posted.. thanks for the info.. if you can tell me how to get this horrible taste out of my mouth form the dust let me know,,
Rob
 

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Hi Guys,

This guide helped me a lot. So thank you! :smile:

I stripped my pump out yesterday. Cleaned everything I possible could and bleed the system. It's working now! I was having intermittent problems. Pump
would only work after letting the car sit for a few days. Would only work for about 30 min as well. Since last night no problems.

I want to know about the fan that cools the pump. Does it run off a temperature control or is run constantly and does it run at 12 volts?? Mine wasn't running at all last night so I'm a bit concerned about it. Does anyone know?
 

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Pulsey, Thanks for the great pics and guide. As you can see from my pics, I was too late. The ingress of commutator dust shows up red on the preamp board. Yours and many other posts have identified the same cause of failure.
The electronics are not adequately isolated from the motor unit. Although the exit holes for the power connections are quite small, they can clearly allow the metallic dust through. The lacquering is pretty ropey, If I prod about with a continuity tester I can easily make connections on the exposed tinned surfaces. Hopefully I can send the whole motor off for a rebuild. That is, unless anyone can supply the module alone. I will use the appropriate thread (not this one) to vent my frustration with BMW service.
It seems obvious that this pathology is an inevitable outcome of the flawed design, and yet customers are having to fork out £900 for a solution.
Sorry I started venting......

hi,
I cant open the motor house,
How did you manage to open the motor house and see the module?
Thanks
 
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