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2004 Mini Cooper S
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9 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi. So my driver side tire bows out at the top. I just installed coil overs and it kinda fixed the problem. But when I put my hand behind the tire on passenger side there is no space between tire and strut. On the driver side I can put my whole hand between. I can't figure out what the problem is. Any idea? I've replace bother inner and outer ball joints replace steering knuckle have installed adjustable sway bar links. I'm stumped.
 

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2004 Mini Cooper S
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Discussion Starter #3
Did you remember to put the upper spring rubber pad back in.
Yes. I had to use my stock ones for the rear but the the front ones were already preassembled. Unless I totally missed something . But before I installed the coilovers it did the same thing but way worse. This is drive side before coilovers.
279803
and this is passenger side
279804
 

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Premium Member
2008 Mini Cooper S hatchback,Automatic,Mello Yellow
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469 Posts
What I would then is start at the point that sub frame meets the firewall of the car. I would inspects if the brackets have moved before by someone. Then here's the kicker. I would measure the body out with a tape measure. And physically realign the sub frame to the body of the car at the firewall.
It would be hard to do considering all the items in the way at the firewall. It would also be hard because when one unbolts the sub frame from the firewall there will be marks where the brackets once were and how it came from the factory. But it would be necessary as it is the deepest component that has to do with the front alignment.
I would then use this that i purchased awhile ago.
I would then replace the front A-Arms like I already have with the re vised mini cooper R56 A-arms.
My A arms look exactly like these but they are re vised from mini cooper. I bought them in 2014. They were a hefty price. The difference is they have a shorter post on each of them. A post that goes through the A-arm rubber bushing.
Now I left the stock suspension height on my mini cooper choosing to use the B-6 sport shocks. But I bought this kit
Powerflex 267532010, PFF5101X2 Control Arm Bushing; SET without Brackets SKU: 1441102-P4-267532010 - Mini
Then I used only two items from that. Which would be the two rubber doughnut looking washers.
I also bought this A-arm control arm bushing kit.
Front Lower Control Arm Rear Bushing Set - Standard
but back then it looked just like this kit with plastic posts. Keep in mind my re vised arms have shorter posts so this plastic post makes up for the difference which is not really a bad thing but not necessary due to the re vised shorter post. Then I took the washers from the first kit and put them over my a arm posts covering up the weld that tends to crack the plastic post. Hence is why they went to this version *note. That the above mentioned bushing kit says standard. here what my standard kit looked like before superpro whet to metal. for my car a R56!
R53 Control Arm Lower Rear Bushing-Single Offset by Super Pro
Now you have a couple of options in order to square up your front end alignment. I have only reason from what you have said it to be. That is the coil overs somehow lowered the car. So at this point you would have to purchase
Front Lower Control Arm Rear Bushing Set - Double Offset
something like this paying attention to how the rubber sits inside of the metal housing and clocking it the necessary direction in order to correct the camber or caster you have.
You can also purchase something like this or both the bushing offset kit and this
which would allow you to change the camber/caster from the top of the shock.
All of this actually leads me to ask if you bought a
coil over installation kit as the stock cups would probably pose a problem with your alignment.
After all of this has been addressed or at least one of the three either bushings or adjustable cups, installation kit for a coil over set up!
Then I would take a serious look at what shape your sub frame itself is in. And after everything is done. I would make sure the linkage half moon looking bracket the cables attach to transmission from are lubed up with some WD-40 or something. As the new stance will effect the tension on those cables but not so much it would need to be adjusted. It's that the cables need to work under different driving conditions. Just LUBE!
 

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Premium Member
2008 Mini Cooper S hatchback,Automatic,Mello Yellow
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469 Posts
P.S. whats with the two different tires on the front end!
 

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Premium Member
2008 Mini Cooper S hatchback,Automatic,Mello Yellow
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469 Posts
Yes. I had to use my stock ones for the rear but the the front ones were already preassembled. Unless I totally missed something . But before I installed the coilovers it did the same thing but way worse. This is drive side before coilovers. View attachment 279803 and this is passenger side View attachment 279804
I would pull them back out making sure to measure each one. It is not unheard of . i replaced the coil springs in my
truck and they sent two of them that were extra tall. It makes it less fuel economic on the highway from wind drag.
Did you count how many coils are on each one? and measure the distance between the coils. They may have sent you
one of one kind and another of another kind. I would return them at that point. It's no big deal you can install hard parts like that. And they will not make that big of a fuss about it. Just return it.:)
 

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2004 Mini Cooper S
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9 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
P.S. whats with the two different tires on the front end!
Lol. One tire is a temporary used tire. So I had to change out the clutch which requires subframe removal. I always suspected it could be the subframe. But still had all these other problems I had to fix. I don't have a garage or a covered spot for the car, there's not even concrete. And since I'm in Seattle\Tacoma area the weather sucks. But as soon as it stops raining for more than a day I'm definitely dropping the subframe and going to recheck everything.
 

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2004 Mini Cooper S
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Discussion Starter #8
I would pull them back out making sure to measure each one. It is not unheard of . i replaced the coil springs in my
truck and they sent two of them that were extra tall. It makes it less fuel economic on the highway from wind drag.
Did you count how many coils are on each one? and measure the distance between the coils. They may have sent you
one of one kind and another of another kind. I would return them at that point. It's no big deal you can install hard parts like that. And they will not make that big of a fuss about it. Just return it.:)
279839
this is what I put in. I know it's not the best but they're pretty nice for the price
 

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Premium Member
2008 Mini Cooper S hatchback,Automatic,Mello Yellow
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469 Posts
Your right about that. It looks like a clean enough set up really. Straight forward bolt on. If you made all the necessary adjustments with that large claw tool that usually comes with those kits not shown on the picture.
Then I would look at your lower a arms and general geometry of all that. because A wheel hanging that far out is a problem in my book!
 

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2004 Mini Cooper S
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9 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Ok I'll look into that. Thank you soooo much. And yes I counted and measured coils and threads. Before I put the coils in I first took in for an alignment. They said my strut was bent so I bought a new strut. No change with the wheel popping out like that. I had also changed the steering knuckle, still no change. I then put original knuckle back on just to double check and still the same but the original wheel bearing was not so good so I put the other one back on. Then I got the new coils and put them on. And at first the problem was fixed. But all of a sudden it started making noise and was hard to control. So I took tire off and some how everything was loose. Bolts on control arm to ball joints sway bar links and lug nuts. This is after everything was torqued down. Either my wrench is not torquing properly or someone is trying to kill me. Lol. So I retorqued everything then took a regular wrench to make sure it was tight. I was able to turn the ball joint bolts a little bit more but didn't want to overdo anything. Could that be from subframe not aligned right and the vibrations from fwy? I always triple check my work, only because I'm not a mechanic and I still get a little nervous working on cars. ☺
 

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Premium Member
2008 Mini Cooper S hatchback,Automatic,Mello Yellow
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469 Posts
I too have had a bent strut from the factory struts. Mine not being so bent, but more of a crease in the shock body, enough I decided to upgrade years ago. So I know where your coming from. I don't know if that is standard or due to clearance,binding,etc..I checked my replacement shocks over the years and never had the problem again.
I know where your coming on taking a regular wrench also. some items like intake manifold for me I tighten down to the dream spec. 14ft pounds I think then I wrench it down from there if the seals are being reused. Just stuff like that plastic components against metal. The idea being the seal acts somewhat like a shock absorber or something. But at that point I like to bottom them out. I just don't push my luck after bottoming them out.
I know first hand about all of my R56 suspension components replaced and maintained every last piece. The control arms on the front of the car was where I started from. they make that part look simple but they can be very hard to remove. Using a torch on the sub frame bolt to the control arm does not work that well and a number of other things. If you get to that point say something on this thread I might be able to help. It could take about 24 hours to figure it out if you don't want to mess things up.
There is just different ways to do it and it can be slightly dangerous.
The subframe is shaped and personalized with each car that is made. It may look offset but that could be due to component locations and everything. Subframe that is a pricey item. I doubt you destroyed it in your attempt to replace the shocks. If something happened it happened before. The subframe is strong. I would attempt to pull the a arms off myself. inspecting the how that bolt tightens to the thread on the sub frame looking into the hole of the a arm if it has been warped or nulled out.
 
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