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R53 MCS W11 jumped timing, NEED HELP in reset procedure.

10372 Views 13 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  Smashy26, 
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Hello all,

the timing on R53 MCS jumped a while ago and the fault code i had was loss of sync between crank and cam.

a lot of procrastinating later i have managed to get to a stage where i have removed the cam chain cover off and found that the chain is stretched and needs replacing. All this is fine and i have the replacement parts.

The one thing that i need help with right now is how do i get the correct timing back. There seems to be two procedures but none show how to correct a jumped timing.

Would really appreciate the help from the experts in the forum.

Should i keep the Cyl#1 at TDC(making sure the crank sprocket makers are at roughly the guide positions i have seen in other posts which is about 4-5 O'clock)and loosen the chain on the cam sprocket and rotate the cam sprocket so that it fits camshaft alignment tool.

or two make sure all cylinders are level while making sure sure again the crank markers are at again around the same position as mentioned above and reset the cam position by loosening the chain and resetting.

Bentley manual says that as long as the three markers line up the rest of it is irrelevant, but nowhere have i come across a jumped timing situation.

please help.

requesting mods and any techs out there to shed some light if possible.
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M
all 4 cylinders level is not for your engine thats for the prince engines in post 2006 cars, yours is tritec early engine this is set at tdc,,, your new timing chain will have 3 coloured links on it the cam shaft sprocket and crank sprockets have same you match up the coloured links to the marks on top and bottom pulleys its that easy,, if its jump teeth chance are its bent valves as both these engine are interference ie pistons will hit the valve if out of time, might get away with a couple of teeth out
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Hi Mike,

thank you for the clarification on the procedure, so TDC it is.

I have had the cylinders checked and there are no indentation marks. I also put a compression gauge sometime back but cannot remember the values i recall them being the same.

SO do you suggest that i keep rotating till the three match up? even though with the stretched china might have jumped?

Or should line i up TDC and rotate the camshaft?
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M
if you think the chain is stretched and fitting a new one you set the new chain up as i said above and to be honest now its a apart only a fool would not replace the timing chain kit anyway as not expensive link below for what i use a lot,
below link is febi bilsteen top quality
www.ebay.co.uk

Timing Chain Kit (Fits: Mini) | Febi Bilstein 37590 - Single | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Timing Chain Kit (Fits: Mini) | Febi Bilstein 37590 - Single at the best online prices at eBay! Free delivery for many products!
www.ebay.co.uk
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mike1967 said:
if you think the chain is stretched and fitting a new one you set the new chain up as i said above and to be honest now its a apart only a fool would not replace the timing chain kit anyway as not expensive link below for what i use a lot,
below link is febi bilsteen top quality
www.ebay.co.uk

Timing Chain Kit (Fits: Mini) | Febi Bilstein 37590 - Single | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Timing Chain Kit (Fits: Mini) | Febi Bilstein 37590 - Single at the best online prices at eBay! Free delivery for many products!
www.ebay.co.uk
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Hi MIke,

i have a new timing chain kit. my plan is to put the new one on. I am only worried about the timing being. should i put the new chain on and the rotate to time the engine?
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M
to remove chain must undo top sprocket remove it, before turn engine so the pin that locates the bottom sprocket on crankshaft so is vertical that is where tdc is, then remove top sprocket and chain and guides and then pull the bottom sprocket off crankshaft ,, refit bottom sprocket and line chain links to the dots and the top sprocket with its mark etc,, ie would fit all this before rotating it also always rotate that engine clockwise from crankshaft only.. ie before removing anything set the crank keyway to top of crank if that makes sense
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mike1967 said:
to remove chain must undo top sprocket remove it, before turn engine so the pin that locates the bottom sprocket on crankshaft so is vertical that is where tdc is, then remove top sprocket and chain and guides and then pull the bottom sprocket off crankshaft ,, refit bottom sprocket and line chain links to the dots and the top sprocket with its mark etc,, ie would fit all this before rotating it also always rotate that engine clockwise from crankshaft only.. ie before removing anything set the crank keyway to top of crank if that makes sense
Click to expand...
Hi Mike,

thank you for the response again.

so first i make sure the crank key way is at top(12 O'clock) and then undo the CAM sprocket. replace the chain and sprockets. While re-assembling the CAM sprocket make sure the key way on the CAM sprocket is facing down? and then while installing the chain back make sure that the markers two at the bottom and one at the top lie up? I m close to TDC at the minute.

Ref images.
277325
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M
see on crankshaft sprocket two triangles these match to the two coloured links that are side by side of new chain, and the other single coloured link matches up with the only triangle mark on top sprocket its as east as that ,, i can see from pics you old cam sprocket has jumped 1 tooth,, i just set crank to keyway to top ie pointing at the raised threaded post above it as such,,, AS LONG AS MARKS AND COLOURED CHAIN LINKS ARE IN MIDDLE OF COLOUR LINKS ITS PERFECT
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mike1967 said:
see on crankshaft sprocket two triangles these match to the two coloured links that are side by side of new chain, and the other single coloured link matches up with the only triangle mark on top sprocket its as east as that ,, i can see from pics you old cam sprocket has jumped 1 tooth,, i just set crank to keyway to top ie pointing at the raised threaded post above it as such,,, AS LONG AS MARKS AND COLOURED CHAIN LINKS ARE IN MIDDLE OF COLOUR LINKS ITS PERFECT
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Hi MIke,

thanks for the info again. I will follow what you have said. and repost on how it went.

Many thanks
Ash
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ashswami said:
Hi Mike,

thanks for the info again. I will follow what you have said. and re-post on how it went.

Many thanks
Ash
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Hi Mike,

Right today has been a bit(very) slow.

I managed to get the timing coloured links as close as possible. and looking at the pictures as below it does look like i am one link or tooth out of timing.

I then arranged the chain and the sprockets. if i keep the crank sprocket at 12 O'clock pointing(representing TDC) then the CAM Sprocket half projected surface is not exactly straight with the edge of the block(not able to use the CAM lock tool). also notice that the CAM sprocket Key way is exactly at 12 as well. Is this right? does this mean that when i link up the coloured links i would not be able to use the CAM lock tool to lock the CAM shaft in place. So align it without locking the cam and once everything is aligned get the CAM lock tool and tighten everything up?

And will one link/tooth out cause the engine to not start?

In all of this do i need to lock the crank in position somehow? is there a tool or location. kindly refer to the pictures

hopefully i get the car running before lock-down ends.

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Keep turning over
I fitted new chain took about 30 engine revolutions to get the marks to all line back up thought I have fecked it with a skipped tooth it would really be ideal to get a timing tool
Or there is a stick method people use where they put same length Sce weds in the plug holes I don’t no exactly how to do that


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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M
its designed to use the marks once and starts the process of every time it rotates it moves a link in front as links are odds as such, as long as per the picture the two coloured links and the single one are where they are in the pics the timing will always be correct its a nobrainer dont need no special tools or to over think it just line up the marks and links and way you go,, and each time pull it apart repeat same way
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mike1967 said:
its designed to use the marks once and starts the process of every time it rotates it moves a link in front as links are odds as such, as long as per the picture the two coloured links and the single one are where they are in the pics the timing will always be correct its a no brainier dont need no special tools or to over think it just line up the marks and links and way you go,, and each time pull it apart repeat same way
Click to expand...
Hi Mike,

apologies for the late reply. After all these i today managed to put the car back together following your instructions. Did not start straight away but after some persuasion started with a Cyl#2 misfire. switched of cleared the codes and restarted and the car behaved like a dream. let it idle for sometime maybe 15 mins(was monitoring data on inpa to see if everything was in order) and was about to switch of when there was a massive coolant leak from the front end. so now i have got another task to investigate and fix, but really wanted to thank you for helping the timing right. Will let you know how the coolant leak goes. Cheers.
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Smashy26
ashswami said:
Hi Mike,

apologies for the late reply. After all these i today managed to put the car back together following your instructions. Did not start straight away but after some persuasion started with a Cyl#2 misfire. switched of cleared the codes and restarted and the car behaved like a dream. let it idle for sometime maybe 15 mins(was monitoring data on inpa to see if everything was in order) and was about to switch of when there was a massive coolant leak from the front end. so now i have got another task to investigate and fix, but really wanted to thank you for helping the timing right. Will let you know how the coolant leak goes. Cheers.
Click to expand...
Hello, have you got anymore news or progress to go with this as I'm having similar problems.

Many thanks
Ashley
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