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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
Mike, just tried it on a dry fit and it looks as though we may have a winner.
can’t do anymore today as busy but crank appears to spin nicely and have zero movement. Would would you say ?
 

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thought it would as they all use same block when built at hams hall engine plant happy day there are many parts they all share as its the cheapest way of making mass produced engine's between different brands , vag group do same trick between their own brands and the use the 2.0tdi engines in jeep and Mitsubishi and all parts interchange i do it all the time with stuff to keep prices down,
 

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its funny even when i'm not at work i'm reading something about something , my old dad always said knowledge is power the more you collect just in case you need the better,, everyday a school day, then there's days when everything just goes peat tong , found the older I get the more peat tong days I seem to have lol,
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
I haven't said attempting to use one wouldn't work, just that it is at your own risk, people go about things in different ways, several might work, some might work a little differently, some might last longer..
Sorry?
You have me at a disadvantage......
I have used Mikes advice and so far have not been disappointed. Unfortunately the build has taken a slow section after some ill health but I am still moving forward with the rebuild and unless you have any HUGE news, I am not expecting to have any issue, especially after building up the engine and checked the tolerances at each part of the build......
 

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I haven't said attempting to use one wouldn't work, just that it is at your own risk, people go about things in different ways, several might work, some might work a little differently, some might last longer..
your right anything and everything on a forum should be taken with a at your own risk view, that said some of us before writing something already know the answer or have a very good level of understanding why it should work, all these engines share a module build policy where they produce the blocks and base plates and the 1.4 and 1.6 non turbo heads are the same, I have dropped a 1.4 head on a 1,6 many times and works fine, same as the cranks the 1.6 and 1.6 turbo run same bearings so a no brainer really it will fit, and bare in mind the base plates and blocks are lined bored on same machines with ultra fine tolerances that only a stupid designed would have different tolerance's on different line bore machines etc, many years ago engines were a fairly rough thing where due to the need to run new engines more lean and more power must have closer tolerance to stay together , these prince engines are fairly strong on the bottom end its just the lack of checking and changing oil that harms them mostly,, or should i say the ignorance of some owners that never check anything,
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
will add the base plate I sent to mac came off a 2009 Peugeot 308 1.6vti
Hi Mike, that is great, in fact the other day I happened to see the stamped VVT on the part you sent me so that was a good sign....!

As an aside, I am ready to add the transmission to the engine as it is now fully rebuilt......

To be honest I am very nervous that I have done everything and also done it all correctly. One thing I would like to know, is it possible to fit the engine with the inlet manifold fitted or does it need to be off so you can locate things?

Is there any kind of checklist for the build that you know of?

Any help at this nerve wracking time would be greatly received!!

Thanks again for all of your help so far.........
 

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can fit engine and box with all the bits on it ie belts and aircon pump etc alternator inlet and exhaust manifolds even the cat etc and wiring harness as thats just couple of plugs to the ecu and battery leads, i just bought a 2010-60 plate mini clubman n16 engine in it with timing chain failed at 79k and its got full bmw service history two owner well loved car,, the n16 engines are really n12 26b engine ie 1,6 engines they now detune them for mini one cars and done away with the 1.4 n12 14b engines after 2010 when went to LCI , so my week end will be stripping it down all pistons out and do a refresh on it , need to replace most of the valves as are bent, and change a couple of pistons as have a few dints in them , just handy all the n12 16b parts still fit the later engines
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
can fit engine and box with all the bits on it ie belts and aircon pump etc alternator inlet and exhaust manifolds even the cat etc and wiring harness as thats just couple of plugs to the ecu and battery leads, i just bought a 2010-60 plate mini clubman n16 engine in it with timing chain failed at 79k and its got full bmw service history two owner well loved car,, the n16 engines are really n12 26b engine ie 1,6 engines they now detune them for mini one cars and done away with the 1.4 n12 14b engines after 2010 when went to LCI , so my week end will be stripping it down all pistons out and do a refresh on it , need to replace most of the valves as are bent, and change a couple of pistons as have a few dints in them , just handy all the n12 16b parts still fit the later engines
And you should as happy as a pig in poop!
Glad you are back to it and that the neck is healing well.

I shall send you a message tomorrow eve or Monday eve depending on when I can get the engine hoist rented and delivered....
Looking forward to letting you know everything you said and did has worked perfectly

Cameron
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
Hey Mike, just a quick update.

Yesterday I managed to get all of the ancillaries onto the engine and set up the wiring loom around the complete build. I am fairly certain I have connected everything correctly but I have literally gone by the shape of the wires and what looks like it should plug in to whatever connection.

So today I fired up the hoist and dropped/propped the complete unit into place.

After which I connected up the turbo pipes, the fuel pipe, the electricity and ran the coolant pipes (but not to anything as yet).

I decided at this point it was time to fire her up.

I put in the keys and away she went spinning looking for a start, then it happened. A quick blast of catch and a run of maybe 5 seconds before it stopped.

I decided to leave it a while, whilst I attended to the bottom ball joint and drop links that both needed replacing.

I tried again and I had the same result.

Now, before I borrow my pals OBD reader machine thing, I am thinking fuel starvation as I have not smelt much in the way of fuel. Also there are no warning lights on the main centre dial and also the small rev counter no longer has any illumination to its dial but does show a faded LCD cluster at the bottom of the dial and NO warning lights illuminated.

Any ideas please Mike, I have fiddled all afternoon and am seriously stumped!!

Cameron
 

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they tend to splutter a bit at first on turbo cars as high pressure fuel pump and fuel rail has air in it, find turning ignition on for a few minutes then off then on again should push the air out
 

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I crank these without plugs four times until the starter cuts out, allowing it a few minutes breather, refit plugs and they usually go because fuel has also bled (as well as oil circulated without cylinder load which was the point), so it may well just be fuel if you haven't cranked it prior....
 
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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
they tend to splutter a bit at first on turbo cars as high pressure fuel pump and fuel rail has air in it, find turning ignition on for a few minutes then off then on again should push the air out
I had been thinking along those lines to be fair so I shall definitely do this in the morning,

As ever,

Thanks Mike, you are a true legend!
 

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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
I crank these without plugs four times until the starter cuts out, allowing it a few minutes breather, refit plugs and they usually go because fuel has also bled (as well as oil circulated without cylinder load which was the point), so it may well just be fuel if you haven't cranked it prior....
To be fair, when I did the first crank, I simply removed each coil pack as I wanted the oil all around the engine prior to fire, but you are definitely correct in my need for removing the plugs as this will definitely allow fuel through...
 

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the 5000kpa from injector rail will push the air out fairly well ,, or better still crack the 13mm solid pipe off after the high pressure fuel pump and bleed air out , if your car keeps being a pain to start on first of day cold start up's then high pressure fuel pump seals have dried up and getting a high pressure pump needed, if so there is a guy on ebay who for £140 refurbish them i've used him a number of times by far cheapest and best option ,,
 

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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
Hi Mike, still no joy.

I have checked the fuel by both removing the plugs and seeing a fuel mist spray up or pool into each cylinder.
I have also loosen off the HPFP and it fair blasted out with a couple of turns!
I haven't yet checked the spark from the plugs but as it did fire into life (admittedly for a couple of seconds) I am thinking that they are not at fault.....
I have no dashboard lights and the car is continually trying to fire but never getting there.
Neither remote works now either.

I am totally stumped and looking for your genius......
 

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have you any easy start or better still brake cleaner,, just add a tiny amount to intake if its sort of runs on brake cleaner then you know its a fuel issue if it dont i would suspect something forgotten or maybe not timed right, would check things like the throttle body is plugged in, but that would throw a code or two, if its firing randomly on a cylinder or two would say its not a CAS issue where ecu been out and battery been off for so long they loose the rolling codes ,,, could try locking car on key fob walk away for 10 minutes come back open on the fob then try and start the car,, if its a mismatch in rolling codes that can reset it all, or could try a power latch ecu reset as link below
 
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