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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2007 R56 cooper, 90k
Hi, sorry for long post but I need to get daughter's car fixed! Got ABS/SRS/service warning lights etc...
Sometimes drives ok for a very short distance, then warnings appear and speedo stops working, PAS gets heavier. Fuel gauge behaves oddly -goes to empty and back again (seems to be triggered on corners). Hooked up to ISTA, got the following codes:
93FB: No message (veh speed) from DSC,ACSM/MRS receiver/DSC transmitter
6115,6116,610F EPS: message error wheel speeds
5E01,5E02,5E00,5E03: DSC speed sensor (each wheel) - short circuit
2FF6: DME: veh speed signal
A0B5: CAS: fault, road speed signal
A3AC: message (distance traveled) faulty, receiver KOMBI, transmitter DSC
5E52: DSC CU, monitoring error
5DD4: DSC CU, internal fault
5DE8,5DD9: DSC CU, internal fault
5DAA: DSC hydraulic unit, supply, pump motor

D35D: Message error CAS, receiver DSC, transmitter CAS
E194: No message, receiver CCC/MASK/RAD2, transmitter CAS
A0AA: CAS: control unit fault
I'm a newbie to this so please bear with me even though the answer may be obvious to some!
Managed to get some sensible readings from the speed sensors when car was in state with no errors so I think sensors are all ok. With this and speedo sometimes working for a short distance, I'm thinking wiring might also be ok. There's nothing obvious and CU connectors all look nice and clean. So from the codes I'm thinking the ABS/DSC unit has gone? Would that be an expert opinion too? Then I guess it's send it to the BBA Reman boys?
Not sure about the CAS things. Have had an issue with steering lock & immobilisation at the same time as this so have reset ELV counter and played with a motor emulator but I've now put it back to the motor as lock kept appearing. Not sure if this could be connected to above.
Would really appreciate your advice.
Thanks in advance
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Checked and cleaned earths by fuses. We’re good anyway I think but rubbed them up with some emmery. Decided to remove ABS connector and test pins. Earths both good. 4 lives all good. Only got a basic multi meter PT-CAN hi 2.58V lo 2.49V measured with ignition on (is the low a bit high?). 60 ohms across them battery disconnected. 1350 to earth 18000000 to live. Something not right there I think? Was a bit rushed tonight so might have units wrong there? Any more thoughts please?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
So, had a little bit of time this morning, pulled connectors on all the units on the PT-CAN (fuse panel, DME, DSC, ePAS) shorted out CAN hi/low wires at each and checked continuity at each in turn. Also checked for short with all in open cct. All seems ok. So in summary, got all +ve feeds to ABS module, good earths at module, got some voltage on the PT-CAN hi (2.6V) & lo (2.5V) using multi-meter. And got continuity in the CAN wires and no short circuit. Car can't communicate with unit and codes pointing towards unit. So would I be correct now to think I need to get the ABS unit looked at?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Update - I decided to send the ABS unit to BBA Reman. They have returned the unit saying that it appears to be ok and the can communicate with it. I've put it back in the car and had a go at bleeding the brakes which seems to have been successful. I hooked up to ISTA to do the bleed routine on the ABS. It started off fine, communication ok, pump did its stuff etc... then got onto the fronts and nothing was happening. Basically communication initially there, then it is 'lost'. This is what happens driving. Drive off, all ok, then after less than 5 minutes the warnings come on, speedo stops. Fuel gauge goes to empty and back again randomly, although this seems to happen cornering possibly. Everything else seems to work ok. What to do next please?
 

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intermittent power fault by sounds of it, under bonnet fuse box maybe, pull fusebox strip outer covering of wiring and trace all wires back,, could be as simple as a relay or broken wire somewhere, and fact its flags so many things when scanned its going to be one of main power harnesses track back from battery to fuse box under bonnet would be my most suspect areas , sounds like one of those faults ,, under the fuse box under bonnet the wiring can get rubbed through and cause all kinds and all the wiring for what flags on scan is all in that area dont take much to break and wire or cause a short circuit,
the abs sensors need millivolts on meter as they are hall effect and generate micro volts when rotate the road wheels
 

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will add would also check all wheel sensors for cracks, and the plugs are clean inside as have a habit of water ingress they will throw wheel sensor codes and short circuits ,, your in a area that even fully trained car techs can get lost in to from complicated area ,, bit you have big step forward you know the abs pump is good,, so most likely wiring harness issues or fuse box , garage fix would be if could not find where in harness they would replace the harness and fuse box ,,
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Haven't had chance to investigate further yet but took the car for a 20 minute drive yesterday to check brakes were ok. Drove slow and steady at the start then tested ABS and threw it around a bit. No issues at all!!! I'd left the DME housing un-bolted because I'm getting fed up of taking bits on & off! I was beginning to think could it be the ABS unit and the fault comes after being on for a few minutes due to warming up but this might suggest otherwise. I'm now wondering if relaxing the harness a bit with the parts not bolted in is pointing towards a bad wire. It's very tight wire bends in that area under the DME/ABS. On a basic OBD I still have 2FF6: DME: veh speed signal, though, but I hadn't cleared codes before driving. Also still got the red steering padlock symbol - I don't think this is connected to this problem though is it?
 

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i've had many repairs like that where the wires to multiplugs and cable ties have caused a open circuit as it pulls the connectors inside the plug back wards or on a angle , always worth contact cleaner spray and they some wd40 helps prevent water ingress that can also cause same issues , the red steering lock warning seen that to be cas connected or the steering lock mech ie steering shaft assembly at fault they have a electrical servo for the lock bit and can wear on a cars with high miles and short trips to get there , ie every time it get used it locks and unlocks it causes more wear over time, speed sensor is part of wheel sensors and abas system the dash bcm get this info and uses it for all kinds including the mileage and speed and mpg read outs etc, the mileage on mini is also stored in the ewl unit under top of dash as well as the keys and the rev counter behind the steering wheel so its all interconnected ,, and even i struggle at time working such faults out ,, main dealers have a repair screen where techs enter a code and work off the screen ,, ie chance are screen would of told you replace abs pump, if that fails replace the next module ,, ie they just keep throwing parts until solved i guess
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Still struggling here. One thing I remembered is that very occasionally the car has cranked without starting. Another thing is sometimes when I've been sitting in the car with the laptop I can here a clicking on driver RHS area, possibly a relay? From reading this post Mini Relay Clicking - North American Motoring I've got thinking could 'just' be a CAS issue. Also, even though I reset the ELV counter and fitted an ELV emulator, I still kept getting the red steering lock symbol coming back. The person who sold it me said other people have told him the push fit connector pins in the CAS module can be suspect and the fix is to solder. This whole problem has occurred during the heatwave we've had too. The dash top gets very hot and people report CAS problems only in hot sometimes. So I decided to solder. I fitted the unit back and the car started, drove it a few miles, stopped got out, locked it, back in restarted - seemed fine. It would take a few more trips to be conclusive.... A few hours later I decided to go and hook up ISTA and check for faults. Cable connector led lit up but then didn't connect, unplugged plugged in, decided to start engine. Long cranking, no start (like it has done very occasionally before), BUT then smoke out of the dash - a glowing fried CAS unit. I assume I must have had solder run through the board and short a pin(s) - but I'm not sure. Anyhow, as you can see from the pics. Well and truly cooked! Heat source looks like triple pin 22 which is basically the SIGNAL STARTER TERMINAL 50 and next double pin 23 which is ELV (emulator in this case). Ground wire from pin 12 fried - obviously during the long cranking too much current has gone through here.
Second pic shows pins on the board to try an see what might have been shorted.
282049

282050

So will trace & fix burnt harness etc, get cloned CAS, but do you think this is a result of my tampering or is this something that could happen again with a 'new' CAS? Could the ELV emulator have caused it? It's just weird that the car started twice ok. I don't know what caused the no start long cranking but previously it seems it was safe for it to do that without overloading the ground feed for the CAS. What do you reckon please?
 

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Still struggling here. One thing I remembered is that very occasionally the car has cranked without starting. Another thing is sometimes when I've been sitting in the car with the laptop I can here a clicking on driver RHS area, possibly a relay? From reading this post Mini Relay Clicking - North American Motoring I've got thinking could 'just' be a CAS issue. Also, even though I reset the ELV counter and fitted an ELV emulator, I still kept getting the red steering lock symbol coming back. The person who sold it me said other people have told him the push fit connector pins in the CAS module can be suspect and the fix is to solder. This whole problem has occurred during the heatwave we've had too. The dash top gets very hot and people report CAS problems only in hot sometimes. So I decided to solder. I fitted the unit back and the car started, drove it a few miles, stopped got out, locked it, back in restarted - seemed fine. It would take a few more trips to be conclusive.... A few hours later I decided to go and hook up ISTA and check for faults. Cable connector led lit up but then didn't connect, unplugged plugged in, decided to start engine. Long cranking, no start (like it has done very occasionally before), BUT then smoke out of the dash - a glowing fried CAS unit. I assume I must have had solder run through the board and short a pin(s) - but I'm not sure. Anyhow, as you can see from the pics. Well and truly cooked! Heat source looks like triple pin 22 which is basically the SIGNAL STARTER TERMINAL 50 and next double pin 23 which is ELV (emulator in this case). Ground wire from pin 12 fried - obviously during the long cranking too much current has gone through here.
Second pic shows pins on the board to try an see what might have been shorted.
View attachment 282049
View attachment 282050
So will trace & fix burnt harness etc, get cloned CAS, but do you think this is a result of my tampering or is this something that could happen again with a 'new' CAS? Could the ELV emulator have caused it? It's just weird that the car started twice ok. I don't know what caused the no start long cranking but previously it seems it was safe for it to do that without overloading the ground feed for the CAS. What do you reckon please?
that will have melted the wiring harness and most likely every other ecu in the car surprised that never burnt the whole car down, trouble being even if got it sort of running again you would always be waiting for it to catch on fire going by those pics, its for the bin or find a to rob the wiring and all ecu's from etc,
 
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