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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all,

Looking for advice or a guide on how to replace my Cat on my R56 Cooper (NON-S) as i can not seem to find any guides online!

Any advice or guides are welcome as i only have a slight idea where to start!

Many thanks,

Jake
 

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pull the front off is best way ie lights out front bumper off crash structure off there are a number of hidden clips and torx bolts need to pull wheels off remove the plastic clips on front sides it the have cross heads on them ,will need to careful pull the wheel arch trims on front edge away to gain access to the bolts for front panel and bumper ends, etc, once all this has been done you can just gently pull the front clip forwards and i use a ratchet strap to hold it where i want it while gaining access to the 11mm nuts holding the manifold to head and heat shield
WARNING DISCONNECT BATTERY WHILE REMOVING THE HEAT SHIELD OR INSTALLING THEM AS ALTERNATOR LIVE NUT IS POSSIBLE TO TOUCH IT SPARKS AND BURN RISK
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Are you buying new or used as I may need to change mine in the next 2 weeks as I've just failed an emissions test.
Im leaving mine a while as i have MOT and its more the noise that annoys me...

I will be purchasing a 2nd hand genuine Cat as ive been informed that aftermarket cats are fine for fixing a noisy Cat but most will still fail on emissions!

A 2nd hand Cat around 70k miles range from £100 to £150 online but thankfully i have a friend selling one... better then £500 on a genuine cat from Mini/BMW
 

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Im leaving mine a while as i have MOT and its more the noise that annoys me...

I will be purchasing a 2nd hand genuine Cat as ive been informed that aftermarket cats are fine for fixing a noisy Cat but most will still fail on emissions!

A 2nd hand Cat around 70k miles range from £100 to £150 online but thankfully i have a friend selling one... better then £500 on a genuine cat from Mini/BMW
Thanks.
I read up on those pattern cats as they're only £130 new, but what I read suggested that it's more about their reduced flow rate is the reason why they're cheaper. The downside being that they don't last as long and can be restrictive to the performance.

So for me it's a toss up between £100 for an unknown used genuine cat, or £130 for a new pattern one which I can either budget for each with MOT or swap back between MOTs.
 

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chances of finding a good secondhand cat for any prince engine is a mine field as they burn oil for a past time all do,
below link it says for Peugeot 207 its a identical cat same mini brand new
EP6 engine number PSA is same as N12 and N16 engines i inter change them all the time depending whats cheaper,,
 
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added note if your engine has issues ie timing chain stretched or burning to much oil replacing the cat will not last long before needing another cat, most common is timing chain stretches and causes a rich running this contaminates the cat, cat issues is more likely that not a issue with something else
 
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added note if your engine has issues ie timing chain stretched or burning to much oil replacing the cat will not last long before needing another cat, most common is timing chain stretches and causes a rich running this contaminates the cat, cat issues is more likely that not a issue with something else
Thanks mike. Good link BTW. Just ordered one of the EP6 cats you linked.
My emissions issue appears to be caused by the engine burning oil. It's only just slightly out, but could be caused by a slightly worn engine @114k.
My thinking is to get it passed the emissions test and bang the old cat back on if there's no way to fix the burning oil.
 

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they do use oil from the off bmw say normal is 1000 miles to 1 litre or oil give or take 200 miles, could use a heavy;r oil ie 5/40w also worth trying adding seafom to oil and run car for 30 miles this will clean out the piston rings if gunged up, but wont fix a worn out piston ring or worn out valve stems seals,, its one of those kill of cure moments, i have used on a engine that was like a steam train out the oil filler when running and 50 miles later was near perfect that was a honda diesel on 220,000 miles the guy drove that on until 300k and sold it where when it came in h=and add the seafoam additive added it was using a lot of oil, that car had intermittent services as well so dirty oil builds up carbon the carbon and sludge will stops rings from pressing against the bores,,,
also what can do get someone to drive your car when car is nice and hot down a steep hill revs around 4000 reves dont touch throttle until at bottom of hill then floor it if it give a puff of blue smoke then its valve stem seals and very common for them miles, if its smokes blue all the time its piston rings, if when unscrew oil filler cap when hot its like a train it rings,, like said seafoam is worth a punt,, also when ordering a cat you should also do the 02 sensors at same time i know its a pain and expensive but oil destroys them so does antifreeze as well at 114k they will be worn out, would only fit genuine ones as well.
below in link for seafoam double pack it includes a spray ie remove the spark plugs and spray in to the cylinders and leave of 24 hours to soak then crank engine no plugs in first to clear excess seafoam, then i replace the plugs and start the engine MUST REV IT FROM THE OFF IE STRAIGHT TO 3K this will clear the seafoam better its worth a punt
 

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the only issue with that stuff is those engines have tiny holes for oil ways on the cam shaft lifters and tend to effect them badly f oil get to thick,, little tip take car to pressure washer and spray soap and pressure up end of exhaust then go for retest sometimes it reduces the readings lol.. i know one mot garage who has the pressure washer all rigged up near the mot to bay,
 
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those engines will run on 5/40w fully synthetic oil ok and its a tad thicker can k=help reduce the oil burning as a long term option, as they do list that oil for mini in very hot country's i believe
 
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Got the car back today. After Stop Smoke it was an instant pass.
The C/O reading went from 0.34% down to 0.05% where anything below 0.20% is a pass.

Just got advisories to sort now:-
  • Nearside Front Road wheel slightly distorted (5.2.2 (c) (i))
  • Oil leak, but not excessive Did not drip on test (8.4.1 (a) (i))
  • Rear Service brake fluctuating, but not excessively Both (1.2.1 (e))
 

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In addition I had ordered the pattern Cat, which I now no longer will need. But if Project_Cooper or anyone needs it then it may become available as I don't intend to send it back just in case I need it next time.
 

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worth reading below link about wynns stop smoke and what can happen, i;ve seen someone add it to a cold engine before and the whole thick lump of it must of went straight in to the sump and locked oil pump up, also on those mini engines the vanos sprockets have tiny vent holes to lubricate the timing chain these will block up of not allow enough oil past and effect vanos,, fixing the why its burning oil is only way to cure it long term,
 

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I'll have a good read of that as I can see the worry there. Fortunately I added it with the engine hot after a 30 mile drive and then still went for a drive to let it mix with the oil before the re-test.

Fortunately I've got 5L of oil and a filter in the boot, so I may be doing the oil service sooner rather than later then...
 

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the joys of modern engines that use oil for other uses ie cam timing and valve clearances etc. on the new ford rangers 3.2 diesels you cant drain all the oil out of sump as if do then need to drop sump and pack the oil pump with grease to suck the oil up again failure to do that destroys the motor,, just another insult from the car maker to the customer ie need special kit to suck the oil out and refill it etc. mini engines run so hot where oil is tested at 100c but the oil in prince engines runs run 130c under load and the coolant is 112c ish before fan kicks in on them this all thins the oil down to much i feel, maybe you could use a 5/40w fully synthetic oil next refill should help with oil burning,, the trouble running a oil contaminated cat is the extra mpg it will cost you over time
 
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