i've seen a number of factory rad cars where thermo housing sticking open and they over cool ,, its the ecu piloted thermo housing that sets the temps on them , latest spec housing runs at 104c-105c old type runs at 112c and needs changing to latest spec housing,, and genuine housing or febi bilsteen do a good after market
R56 cooling system
Would any of the members recommend fitting a high performance radiator to a re built R56 Cooper S which still seems to run very hot even though all of the cooling system appears to be functioning properly
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
If you have a aftermarket type engine setup then a aftermarket radiator may be the best option. Keep in mind that hard components are often more expensive than the stock components; like the radiator and thermostat housings and stuff.
Having a good understanding of fluid dynamics and access to a dyno with computer tuning software and knowledge would be the best angle of approach for that.
In it's rawest form here is an example of fluid dynamics of a engine from my own perspective: A reverse flow water pump on a popular V-6 engine from the early 1990's works great but the heater warmer passages need to be blocked off in order for that to be more effective. Although the waterpump was aftermarket and 1/2 the weight of the stock. It took knowledge to make it work proper.
In modern cars the computer is really dependent on getting the correct computer information. Every sense I have sorted out all of my coolant issues. The performance of the little 1.6 liter has been so much better from just starting the car to the usage after an hour of driving it. But most of all it drives with performance that reflects the same performance from when It was purchased with 25 thousand miles.
Before the car would throw a warning light every so often and could be reset without it coming back on. BUT the car did not perform as well when it was running slightly cooler barely throwing a warning light at all.
There is a margin that the cooling system can work within and not cause a light. And there is the correct temperature of the engine. I would rate the difference in power level at...at least 10 percent performance difference in lower rpm cycling(in town). And at least 25 percent difference in the consistency of the engine power all the way around(not to be confused with performance; just the general cycling of stop and go traffic, in some respects it has more performance running cooler in town but it tends to become a snowball effect gathering an offset computer engine relationship; and eventually leading to just a romp on it more to make up the difference and a general deadened throttle pedal. Either way the car will maintain street manners, but running colder eventually catches up to the adaptive computer decisions, throwing a light or just a general reduction of power.
I would just get the stock radiator! They are in themselves a small compact performance designed item for a the stock set up. They are just small with plastic end cap and probably not very easy to service with small cooling veins.
In this day in age with a smaller variety of options to have someone service a radiator, where as in the old days there were radiator repair shops. The options seem to favor just buying a new one.
I would have confidence in a new stock radiator for a mini cooper. It design alone for it's application is much better then most out there. There just small and get worn out over time.
Having a good understanding of fluid dynamics and access to a dyno with computer tuning software and knowledge would be the best angle of approach for that.
In it's rawest form here is an example of fluid dynamics of a engine from my own perspective: A reverse flow water pump on a popular V-6 engine from the early 1990's works great but the heater warmer passages need to be blocked off in order for that to be more effective. Although the waterpump was aftermarket and 1/2 the weight of the stock. It took knowledge to make it work proper.
In modern cars the computer is really dependent on getting the correct computer information. Every sense I have sorted out all of my coolant issues. The performance of the little 1.6 liter has been so much better from just starting the car to the usage after an hour of driving it. But most of all it drives with performance that reflects the same performance from when It was purchased with 25 thousand miles.
Before the car would throw a warning light every so often and could be reset without it coming back on. BUT the car did not perform as well when it was running slightly cooler barely throwing a warning light at all.
There is a margin that the cooling system can work within and not cause a light. And there is the correct temperature of the engine. I would rate the difference in power level at...at least 10 percent performance difference in lower rpm cycling(in town). And at least 25 percent difference in the consistency of the engine power all the way around(not to be confused with performance; just the general cycling of stop and go traffic, in some respects it has more performance running cooler in town but it tends to become a snowball effect gathering an offset computer engine relationship; and eventually leading to just a romp on it more to make up the difference and a general deadened throttle pedal. Either way the car will maintain street manners, but running colder eventually catches up to the adaptive computer decisions, throwing a light or just a general reduction of power.
I would just get the stock radiator! They are in themselves a small compact performance designed item for a the stock set up. They are just small with plastic end cap and probably not very easy to service with small cooling veins.
In this day in age with a smaller variety of options to have someone service a radiator, where as in the old days there were radiator repair shops. The options seem to favor just buying a new one.
I would have confidence in a new stock radiator for a mini cooper. It design alone for it's application is much better then most out there. There just small and get worn out over time.
Thanks for taking the trouble to reply it is much appreciated the engine set up is standard as far as I know and wondered whether there might be something as simple as furred up cooling system leading to a lessened performance maybe the waterways in the block being less than effic and if this were the case is there a flushing/cleaning methodIf you have a aftermarket type engine setup then a aftermarket radiator may be the best option. Keep in mind that hard components are often more expensive than the stock components; like the radiator and thermostat housings and stuff.
Having a good understanding of fluid dynamics and access to a dyno with computer tuning software and knowledge would be the best angle of approach for that.
In it's rawest form here is an example of fluid dynamics of a engine from my own perspective: A reverse flow water pump on a popular V-6 engine from the early 1990's works great but the heater warmer passages need to be blocked off in order for that to be more effective. Although the waterpump was aftermarket and 1/2 the weight of the stock. It took knowledge to make it work proper.
In modern cars the computer is really dependent on getting the correct computer information. Every sense I have sorted out all of my coolant issues. The performance of the little 1.6 liter has been so much better from just starting the car to the usage after an hour of driving it. But most of all it drives with performance that reflects the same performance from when It was purchased with 25 thousand miles.
Before the car would throw a warning light every so often and could be reset without it coming back on. BUT the car did not perform as well when it was running slightly cooler barely throwing a warning light at all.
There is a margin that the cooling system can work within and not cause a light. And there is the correct temperature of the engine. I would rate the difference in power level at...at least 10 percent performance difference in lower rpm cycling(in town). And at least 25 percent difference in the consistency of the engine power all the way around(not to be confused with performance; just the general cycling of stop and go traffic, in some respects it has more performance running cooler in town but it tends to become a snowball effect gathering an offset computer engine relationship; and eventually leading to just a romp on it more to make up the difference and a general deadened throttle pedal. Either way the car will maintain street manners, but running colder eventually catches up to the adaptive computer decisions, throwing a light or just a general reduction of power.
I would just get the stock radiator! They are in themselves a small compact performance designed item for a the stock set up. They are just small with plastic end cap and probably not very easy to service with small cooling veins.
In this day in age with a smaller variety of options to have someone service a radiator, where as in the old days there were radiator repair shops. The options seem to favor just buying a new one.
I would have confidence in a new stock radiator for a mini cooper. It design alone for it's application is much better then most out there. There just small and get worn out over time.
regards
Also meant to add how critical is the coolant spec and mix ?Thanks for taking the trouble to reply it is much appreciated the engine set up is standard as far as I know and wondered whether there might be something as simple as furred up cooling system leading to a lessened performance maybe the waterways in the block being less than effic and if this were the case is there a flushing/cleaning method
regards
Peter
by my experience that would be the problem. One goes through the entire questioning process of everything in the cooling system and it turns out to be like a regular car, in regards to radiators gelling up. What I have learned is to cut the service interval on fluid down by 50 percent and after 20 thousand miles exchange it with new fluid and see if that improves anything. I got the feeling it probably won't. It's just a small radiator that is effective but see twice the action as a radiator that is not on a computer controlled system.Thanks for taking the trouble to reply it is much appreciated the engine set up is standard as far as I know and wondered whether there might be something as simple as furred up cooling system leading to a lessened performance maybe the waterways in the block being less than effic and if this were the case is there a flushing/cleaning method
regards
The radiator is not so much based on having coolant in it while the coolant is cool. there is no ceiling or headroom left in the radiator just hot coolant at temp running through it all the time. disposable in my opinion. I don't like to admit it. Because one day they will start to lean down on the available parts for mini coopers. Like someone mentioned earlier. about a Piece for there mini front bumper; as early as 5 years ago you could get any part through ECS tuning as far as the body was concerned. ANY PART.(that was a bolt on type part). Not anymore. You could buy the filiment that goes into the stereo display that lights up and shows the radio stations(control panel screen). Not anymore. You could get all the modules to change over and build piece by piece a Navigation system. Not anymore. There are a lot of other parts They don't sell off hand anymore. And one can go to a dealership and they also no longer carry it all.
It important to have the European fluid colored blue. 50/50 mix. But that is only part of the problem. If one has a issue with a oil filter housing gasket oil can mix with the coolant and gum things up. POTENTIALLY, but still POSSIBLE.Also meant to add how critical is the coolant spec and mix ?
Peter
Once again many thanks for the very informative response much appreciated I am new to the R56 ownership problems which seem very well documented but am determined to stick with it. Regardsissue with
It's a good car really. I only say that as a person that let each thing run into the RED. so to say. By not replacing things until they broke. At that point asking myself why I would let something go that direction until it breaks. Aside of that once it is under someones guise it is pretty straightforward. Small engine that can be fixed really low to the ground and hobby able.
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
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