[Scudder]

OK, your security bolts, you can release these using a socket, use one that is slightly too small to slot over the edge and hammer it onto the fairly soft security head, use a socket handle and breaker bar. Your security nuts are trash anyway. Worked for me.
If the mechanic did not torque the crankshaft bolt (negligence) to the correct tollerance (and it is huge btw, when I did mine the first socket ruptured as I was doing the angle turn) it would give you those symptoms. I agree, it would be highly unlikely valves have not collided with pistons at some point in this mess. Once you solve the crankshaft mystery, a cylinder pressure test would be next (no need to pull the head if pressures are good) and any loss would be a head off and valve stem check.

 

[Scudder]

hmmm sounds to me the muppet who try'd to change the timing chain the first time cut corners and never used new camshaft bolts and crankshaft bolt,,
the cam shafts ones are 20nm plus 90+90 degrees, so if reused they would end up 360 degrees not good when £3,90 each new, the crankshaft bolts is 40nm plus 120degrees same thing would end up 240 degrees if reused a stretch bolt is designed to get a torsion pressure with in the hot and cold temps within a engine,
as security bolts ? do you mean the torx spline link below, the are only that shape as transfer force better they say,
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Torx-Sta...539218&hash=item2593838ce1:g:h0AAAOSwbqpT45Ag

also when doing new chain kit there is a updated tensioner pics below ie longer genuine one

It is his wheel nuts he cannae get off 'I can't get the wheels off at the moment as the security adapter for the locking nuts is buggered (I'm guessing timing-chain person over-egged it) and am waiting for a bolt remover to arrive. So I haven't got easy access to the crankshaft pulley.'

 

[Scudder]

No timing marks. Undo and remove the vanos/sprockets. All to do with the pistons being alligned and even height, putting in the flywheel locking tool (this gaurantees you are not 180 deg out) and lining up the cams with Exhaust and Inlet wording on top. All explained in the youtube videos, the one with wires in the sparkplug holes is good I will find a link. Put on the timing/cam locking tools and start to reassemble. Once the tools are on the cams and pistons alligned, it is timed up. That is the whole point of the cam lock tools, it is impossible without them!!!

Crankshaft and Cam bolts MUST be new. At all stages and when double checking timing/cam placement only ever rotate the crankshaft clockwise.

I don't see why you cannot leave the chain in place but you MUST allign everything exactly and follow the instructions in the videos, you cannot skip any steps. Me, I would be checking out the lower sprocket to ensure it was replaced and with that mileage, change out the oil pump chain since I am in there, and a new crankshaft seal just in case.

 

[Scudder]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zWgcPTjcvjg

and

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HQyyGEg7uSQ

Both good.

Mike also suggests quite often to not do the final torque settings until you have checked compression on all cylinders to ensure there are no bent/stuck valves which is very likely in your case.