[mike1967]

hmmm sounds to me the muppet who try'd to change the timing chain the first time cut corners and never used new camshaft bolts and crankshaft bolt,,
the cam shafts ones are 20nm plus 90+90 degrees, so if reused they would end up 360 degrees not good when £3,90 each new, the crankshaft bolts is 40nm plus 120degrees same thing would end up 240 degrees if reused a stretch bolt is designed to get a torsion pressure with in the hot and cold temps within a engine,
as security bolts ? do you mean the torx spline link below, the are only that shape as transfer force better they say,
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Torx-Sta...539218&hash=item2593838ce1:g:h0AAAOSwbqpT45Ag

also when doing new chain kit there is a updated tensioner pics below ie longer genuine one

 

[mike1967]

That's right. Wheel bolts !

I tried the smacking the socket trick, it has worked for me before.

The security bolt has a slight shoulder on the head so it' slightly smaller than the diameter of the rest of it.

When I smacked a socket over it, it seemed to get mangled on the smaller part then just spun around the larger part (not explained that very well). Needless to say it didn't work.

The bolt removal set just arrived - this is the sort that is reverse-threaded and is supposed to cut it's way onto the bolt head as it tightens then out comes the bolt

Didn't even scratch it so that's going back and I've ordered a toughened smack-on type remover.

Getting no-where fast with this one. When I finally get unfettered access to the crank pulley, I'll report back!!

you will need to chisel the round roller collar off the locking bolt, some have them some dont, if dont then i use a big hammer some times on a breaker bar get someone to hit end of breaker bar while someone turns it,, failing that angle grinder or dremel and make the edge of bolt with grooves so the tool digs in,,
or you could give reg number to bmw mini main dealers and they will older the locking tool for you, if genuine ones
or a master set below
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/22pc-Bmw...370085?hash=item3b0e61f0a5:g:NVAAAOSw30JbBotZ

 

[mike1967]

Hi,

Quick update. Managed to get the wheel bolt off (it was one of the spinning collar ones - McGuard).

In the end I used my Dremmel to shave the head of the bolt enough to get the collar off over it THEN whacked a socket over it to get it off.

Now I can get the wheel arch liner out I can get to the crank pulley and report back!

Thanks for the help so far.

i know what its lie the first time i ever come up against those locking nuts with spinners on them, i use a 18v dewart impact gun these day works a treat with the reversed thread removal tools
ONLY TRY AND TURN ENGINE CLOCKWISE NEVER ANTI CLOCKWISE AS WILL WIND THE CHAIN TENSIONER IN AND GET MORE SLIP ON SPROCKETS AND COULD DO MORE DAMAGE

 

[mike1967]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zWgcPTjcvjg

and

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HQyyGEg7uSQ

Both good.

Mike also suggests quite often to not do the final torque settings until you have checked compression on all cylinders to ensure there are no bent/stuck valves which is very likely in your case.

ha ha made me laugh that one he spent all that time making a tool to hold the crankshaft pulley,,, when the bottom locking pint that slots in to the flywheel is a hardened steel pin designed to be used as a lock to pressure against, i have a locking kit i have had for 10 years now its gets used a lot and everyone including me use it same way.and never breaks or goes loose time and time again it does the job with out fail, even the cheap ebay set is same,
i always compression test them on the old bolts done up enough to hold the timing in and do compression test on them, rather than have o take it apart twice, as no customers would want to pay for it twice,