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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've just had the R56 JCW (Brembo) Brakes fitted on my 2003 JCW MCS.
Having read the previous posts and taken advice all went well. The rear suspension arm was cut to allow the brake hose to clear and the handbrake cable bracket was machined to take the existing cable end. New SS front hoses were made with 10mm male ends instead of the banjo fitting.

I have kept my 17" S Spoke Alloys so we experimented with spacers and found that 10mm spacers were just enough to clear the face of the Brembo calipers but I opted for 12mm as this allows Hub-centric spacers to be used and the extra 2mm of clearance is perfect. 40mm 12x1.5 wheel bolts are needed with the spacers.

I went to 'Fastparts' in Croydon to do the work, Paul Hebden (a big thank you) is very knowledgeable and extremely helpful and did a first class job, talking me through all the procedures and options.
 

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Hi Hucker

May i first say that those brakes look AMAZING!! I'm the proud new owner of my very first new mini. After having 6 of the old type min's since i was 15, the time had come to move on to something a little more modern that would not rust. As much as i love the old mini (and admittently was against the new BMW cars when they arrived) i am head over heals with Lenni (my R53)

My question involves the brake mod that was carried out on your car. Currently in my living room i have a full set of R108's running Dunlop's and a Brembo JCW brake kit that i will be fitting within the next month. I have been snooping around the site and taken note of what various users have to say, however there are a few points i would like to clear up before i go ahead feet first into the mod. If you or anyone else can help me clear these up i would be extreamly greatful..!!

1) You mentioned that you had to cut the rear suspension arm so that the brake hose could clear it. How much material are we talking?? is it a slither or a slice??

2) I was aware that the current brake lines on the front do not fit due to the banjo.. If i buy a set of Goodridge R56 lines can these be fitted without the modification that you mentined..??

3) I think that il be ok with the R108 rims without spacers... Can you or anyone else coment on this..??

Im sorry to ask so many questions however i need to get this right first time :)

Many many thanks

S Kelly
 

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Havent seen a set of the brembos fitted with s-spokes before - nice work ;) Bet your enjoying the stopping power now !!

Only thing is its a shame they are hidden behind the spokes - I recon you need some more open wheels to show off the brakes and ensure they are light weight wheels too....

Enjoy ! :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Rear brake hose mod.

Hi Hucker


1) You mentioned that you had to cut the rear suspension arm so that the brake hose could clear it. How much material are we talking?? is it a slither or a slice??

2) I was aware that the current brake lines on the front do not fit due to the banjo.. If i buy a set of Goodridge R56 lines can these be fitted without the modification that you mentined..??

Hi, the cut section is shown in the photo of the rear brake, just where the brake hose comes from the caliper. The centerline of the threaded hole in the caliper would hit the upright section of the suspension arm. So a circular hole was cut with a 1" holesaw about 3/4" from the edge, the mouth then opened up with a file to make a U shape notch. The brake hose will pass through it.

An alternative to making the cut would be to use a banjo fitting and route the hose round the upright. The front hose would do but is a bit too long.

I don't know if R56 hoses will match the R53 brake lines.......
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Miniltes

Havent seen a set of the brembos fitted with s-spokes before - nice work ;) Bet your enjoying the stopping power now !!

Only thing is its a shame they are hidden behind the spokes - I recon you need some more open wheels to show off the brakes and ensure they are light weight wheels too....

Enjoy ! :D
The brakes certainly work, it's making my eyes hurt! but I'd rater see the wheels than the brakes, my '66 Cooper S has 10" Minilites and these are a good match.
 

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A few points to add...

You do NOT need to cut the rear arms at all ive fitted a few of these kits now (4 cars) and mine.. the first time they got cut as we did not no as most garages will cut them anyway..

I got a set of braided lines made up for the rear with a banjo fitting and it works fine and no cutting is needed.

This is how my rear's are setup not and the rear brake lines cost me £35 for the set, i already had stainless front ones that fitted.

Scotty
 

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@ScottyBoy - I see your posting about fitting these kits to R53s and have a few Qs.

I have just fitted this full kit to my 2006 R53 and noticed a deeper pedal feel. I installed this and used the old school method of "down, up, down, up..." to bleed fluid and was able to get solid fluid out of the lines and a drivable feeling but, it still needed one quick pump to get a firmer pedal.

Engine off, the pedal is rock solid.
Engine on, the vacuum assist feels like it is too excessive.

Engine on the pedal feels mushy but, the brakes work well. With two quick pump provides better tighter pedal feel. This lead me to believe there was air in the lines somewhere.

So, I dropped it off at my local MINI dealer to see if they could have a better go at it. They said they hooked up electronically to remove any air trapped in the ABS system and pressure bled each corner and reported that it is better than when I dropped it off.

Any tricks or tips? on bleeding, pedal feel or reports similar would be appreciated, thanks.

Couple of notes:
2006 R53 with 50k miles.
- ATE Super Blue Racing Fluid
- Needed to file the rear trailing arms to fit the R53 emergency brake cables.
- Needed to make the R53 round "O" e-brake cable have flat edges (dremel tool, eye protection) to fit the "[]" square R56 rear caliper hole.
- Made up some short brake lines with female and male ends, no need to cut-away the trailing arm for this.

ts’ racing sport report Service Notes – 50,088. Fitting a 2009 > JCW Brembo Sports Brake Kit on a 2006 R53.

Here are some photos of the install.








 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Hi Thompson, I think you need to support those short brake lines you've fitted, with constant suspension travel and vibration and with the weight of the couplings and rubber hose I'm worried that they will harden and crack. Better to fit new longer hoses with banjo connections and do away with the metal lines.
 

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Hi Thompson, I think you need to support those short brake lines you've fitted, with constant suspension travel and vibration and with the weight of the couplings and rubber hose I'm worried that they will harden and crack. Better to fit new longer hoses with banjo connections and do away with the metal lines.
That is a wonderful idea to dampen these. I could try to add some rubber / metal solid mounts, but where to attach? The tarmac roads I drive on are like a rallye stage. I'll keep an eye on it. I was thinking of Waxoyling these to lessen the corrosion.

Might be better off as you mention sourcing some Goodrich banjo fittings and longer rear rubber hoses. I'm sure Goodrich could make up a set with the 10mm banjo already on it, but these would most likely be stainless steel. I purchased new R56 standard front rubber hoses and mixing the two would produce different results.

Does anyone have any luck sourcing other BMW rear hose parts that would possibly work?

ps...I was able to drive the new brakes tonight and all is well with the pedal feel. It required the mentioned pressure bleeding, ABS bleeding and manual bleeding afterwards.

These brakes are mental!
 

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Thanks for the support tip :)

I sent it off to the MINI dealer to have the whole system bled through. Seems to have solved most (but not all) the spongy pedal. Very drivable now. I think that one of the front calipers still has a small tiny little bubble. Might need a proper gravity and pressure bleed with a rubber mallet on the front calipers.

Anywho, on the ground when the suspension is fully compressed I noticed that the rubber rear lines were ever so rubbing against the JCW exhaust - ruhro. So, moved the line I made to accommodate and fitted a piece of rubber hose around, similar to the piece that is already there. I'm not confident in this setup and decided to purchase stainless steel lines front and rear from Todd at TCE in AZ for $105 USD shipped. These are banjo fitting on all four corners and the fronts have 10mm bolts and angled 30 deg. The rears will be shorter than my extended lines added and should solve the exhaust clearance issue. I'll report back after install with photos.

I can say that these brakes are totally mental :tongue:

Cheers,
Thompson
 

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Hi guys, just a quick question. I am about to fit r56 jcw brakes on my r53 with s spokes. Do I need spacers on the back as well?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
No, you don't need spacers on the back but it will make it look better and also mean you only have one size of wheel bolt.
without spacers on the front, the Brembo calipers will contact the inside of the spokes before it is seated on the hub!
 
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