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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi

I am working on taking the head off and at the moment removing the exhaust manifold/catalytic convertor assembly.
I have run into a problem after loosened the nut it to be stuck and I have applied penetrating oil and tapped it but it won't release? Any other ideas?
Thanks
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Got it, thanks, What about heating it with a heat gun as well- Would that help? Also I have having troubles with the O2 sensors they seem stuck, I heard heating helps??
Heating it with heat gun will make the clamp bend a lot easier I believe. Just wear gloves because you have to think, that clamp is meant to be under heat all the time.
I’ve never removed o2 sensors but leverage is always key with hard to remove bolts. You could try a cheater bar on the end of a wrench or two wrenches locked in perfectly. Look up a photo of someone doing that.
 

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My clip was stuck like this too. I squeezed a washer or thin nut (can't remember exactly) that was too small for the bolt to go through between the clamp ends and wound the bolt back in - thus spreading the clamp apart.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the tip. That sounds logical, I will try that as well. Do you have any recommendations to removed these last set of nuts for the manifold. The heat shield sort of blocks extender arms and it seems if I want to remove the front heat shield I need to removed the o2 Sensor and that's hard. Is that panel around the o2 sensor nut removable ?
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Have you got the car in front-end service mode ? I managed to get the head off without doing this but when I subsequently had to replace the oil-filter housing gasket (common failure) which necessitated doing this I realised how much easier the job would have been if I had done. It was fiddly getting those manifold nuts off but with a variety of short and long sockets, wobble extensions and universal adapters I managed.
O2 sensor has to come out to get the heat shield off.

Front-end service mode and other helpful bits are in this video:-
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Have you got the car in front-end service mode ? I managed to get the head off without doing this but when I subsequently had to replace the oil-filter housing gasket (common failure) which necessitated doing this I realised how much easier the job would have been if I had done. It was fiddly getting those manifold nuts off but with a variety of short and long sockets, wobble extensions and universal adapters I managed.
O2 sensor has to come out to get the heat shield off.

Front-end service mode and other helpful bits are in this video:-
Hi thanks for the note, I don't have it in service mode at the moment but realize it would have been easier. So far I am pretty close, just those 3 nuts left and the clamp but yeah realize it would have been easier in service mode right from the start. I will do that for the re-install. I do have a variety of flex, and universal joints. I will just keep at it :) . I do have the o2 sensor sockets but they're real hard to remove at this angle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hi I got clamp off and the bolts but you're right, really need to be in service mode to juggle whole manifold assembly off.
I will put into service mode unless you have a tip to get the whole assembly out??
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It's possible, here's a picture of mine with the head off with the front-end still on, it took some wriggling to get the heatshield out I remember (this is 2 years ago). Note the socket someone's stuck in the PCV hose to 'fix it'!!
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@mike1967 any suggestions?
 

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pcv hose deffo a problem needs new one or might need a new rocker cover as well , i've done them like before its just getting to 10mm off heat shield,, also removing the exhaust studs from head a must ( and have had them snap the torq head off them a lot) or when refit head on to gasket you can damage the gasket or head surface on the round location dowls,, also when i do them and cars over 80k on factory chain etc the cat needs replacing on nearly all of them to ensure it dont destroy the work just done, hence why i've always said to people best to pull the lot out and replace while its there, also takes me 30 mini to pull front away and make room and saves my hands lol,
also while front off can clean out the oil filter housing and check the valves in the bottom of it, on turbo cars the oil feed pipe to turbo when gets moved will leak after or soon after and can take turbo out when does ,, and to replace that need to pull cat off anyway, its also easier to remove sump bolts with cat off as two of the 8mm bolts are pain to get at with it still on,,, this all said good effort hopefuly the put back together will go as well,,
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Hi @mike1967 and @Angst thanks for the tips. looking at your photo Mike was wondering do you think I need to actually remove the intake manifold and purge solenoid? I imagine the main thing is to ensure that these things are just detached from the head- right? But the Chilton procedure says to remove them completely?
 

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Hi @mike1967 and @Angst thanks for the tips. looking at your photo Mike was wondering do you think I need to actually remove the intake manifold and purge solenoid? I imagine the main thing is to ensure that these things are just detached from the head- right? But the Chilton procedure says to remove them completely?
cant comment on any manuals never use them . but i always move it all out the way just ensures when put head back on less to think about and less to get caught up
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
cant comment on any manuals never use them . but i always move it all out the way just ensures when put head back on less to think about and less to get caught up
Got it. Did you have to loosen/remove bottom bolt + bracket off the intake manifold to have the manifold get off the head? Or are 4 x top bolts good enough to loosen the manfold from the head?
 

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Got it. Did you have to loosen/remove bottom bolt + bracket off the intake manifold to have the manifold get off the head? Or are 4 x top bolts good enough to loosen the manfold from the head?
yes that horrible 10mm bolt at bottom of manifold can be accessed best from wheel arch inwards on right hand drive cars its drivers side ie wheel off and i use a 1/4 drive 10mm socket on a 2 long extension bars on turbo cars, and just a rachet and small bar on non turbo cars as the bolt is a bit different between the manifolds,
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
yes that horrible 10mm bolt at bottom of manifold can be accessed best from wheel arch inwards on right hand drive cars its drivers side ie wheel off and i use a 1/4 drive 10mm socket on a 2 long extension bars on turbo cars, and just a rachet and small bar on non turbo cars as the bolt is a bit different between the manifolds,
yeah I watched some videos and it's a pain to access, one guy went underneath to loosen that bolt. Looking at my USA mini non turbo (left hand drive) it still seems I can still access from the right wheel arch?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
@mike1967 and @Angst thanks for all the advice, I put the front end in service mode (wasn't too hard actually except the banging on with a small sledge hammer was interesting) and was able to jiggle the exhaust manifold assembly out the bottom. BTW: I need to get the gas out of the tank, do you have any tips on that, I read pump out of fuel pump lid??
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
@mike1967 and @Angst thanks for all the advice, I put the front end in service mode (wasn't too hard actually except the banging on with a small sledge hammer was interesting) and was able to jiggle the exhaust manifold assembly out the bottom. BTW: I need to get the gas out of the tank, do you have any tips on that, I read pump out of fuel pump lid?? View attachment 281478 View attachment 281479
yes that horrible 10mm bolt at bottom of manifold can be accessed best from wheel arch inwards on right hand drive cars its drivers side ie wheel off and i use a 1/4 drive 10mm socket on a 2 long extension bars on turbo cars, and just a rachet and small bar on non turbo cars as the bolt is a bit different between the manifolds,
Hi @Angst and @mike1967
I took the wheel off and surveyed the bolt. Do I need to just remove the bolt on the manifold or also the bracket its attached to which bolts to engine??. See this picture
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Hi @mike1967 and @Angst I got intake off and now got fan belt off and friction wheel unbolted. Do you know if I am supposed to unbold these 3 bolts on crank hub [What size are those?] or do I just take whole crank hub pulley bolt off [one video had removing whole hub and not 3 hub bolts]? what is best procedure?
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