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cab you remind us what your doing to it
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
cab you remind us what your doing to it
I am removing Cylinder head for rework. So far removed most of the attachments and now up to removing the timing chain assembly. So have to remove this pulley hub. The repair manual says remove these bolts on the hub and then the actual pulley bolt but then I saw I video where the guy just removed the pulley bolt with the hub attached. Which is correct? Thanks
 

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you can keep the pully attached i remove the 3 torx bolts and pull pulley off before the centre boss that holds the cam chain sprocket as will when come to put back together find it easier to get boss back in square as such ,, heads up when pulling the boss out or even when pully still attached dont lever it to hard as can hurt the surfaces where oil seal sits ,
i always lock the engine with timing lock kit before pulling chain off etc as this will ensure nothing can get bent ,, its just just good work practice to lock it off before pulling any chain or head off puts all the pistons out way of any of the valves etc
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
you can keep the pully attached i remove the 3 torx bolts and pull pulley off before the centre boss that holds the cam chain sprocket as will when come to put back together find it easier to get boss back in square as such ,, heads up when pulling the boss out or even when pully still attached dont lever it to hard as can hurt the surfaces where oil seal sits ,
i always lock the engine with timing lock kit before pulling chain off etc as this will ensure nothing can get bent ,, its just just good work practice to lock it off before pulling any chain or head off puts all the pistons out way of any of the valves etc
Got it thanks and I have locked the cams. What about locking pin in flywheel? I read I should temporarily remove the locking pin when removing pulley? What size are those 3 torx bolts?
 

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Got it thanks and I have locked the cams. What about locking pin in flywheel? I read I should temporarily remove the locking pin when removing pulley? What size are those 3 torx bolts?
i always leave the crank pin in when stripping them i also leave the lock pin in and undo the 18mm stretch bolt and use the lock pin to lever against done every one i've ever done like this and by chain lock tool is best part of 10 years old now done hundreds like it and never had any issues ,,, BUT NEVER USE THE CAMSHAFT LOCKS TO HOLD CMASHAFTS WHILE UNDOING OR DOING UP THEIR BOLTS YOU BEND THEM AND BE OUT OF TIME,, 27MM SPANNER TO HOLD CAMSHAFTS ONLY WAY,
off top of head E10 0r E8 its strange i just reach for the size in my rail
 

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Hi

I am working on taking the head off and at the moment removing the exhaust manifold/catalytic convertor assembly.
I have run into a problem after loosened the nut it to be stuck and I have applied penetrating oil and tapped it but it won't release? Any other ideas?
Thanks
View attachment 281394
Hi

I am working on taking the head off and at the moment removing the exhaust manifold/catalytic convertor assembly.
I have run into a problem after loosened the nut it to be stuck and I have applied penetrating oil and tapped it but it won't release? Any other ideas?
Thanks
View attachment 281394
I wish I saw this earlier. I ended up using a self made tool with wrenches and some screws that I had laying around to resemble bow opening pliers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
i always leave the crank pin in when stripping them i also leave the lock pin in and undo the 18mm stretch bolt and use the lock pin to lever against done every one i've ever done like this and by chain lock tool is best part of 10 years old now done hundreds like it and never had any issues ,,, BUT NEVER USE THE CAMSHAFT LOCKS TO HOLD CMASHAFTS WHILE UNDOING OR DOING UP THEIR BOLTS YOU BEND THEM AND BE OUT OF TIME,, 27MM SPANNER TO HOLD CAMSHAFTS ONLY WAY,
off top of head E10 0r E8 its strange i just reach for the size in my rail
Got it thanks.. This is a picture of the locking pin. It seems like it's locked as I can't crank the engine in the anti-clockwise rotation any longer. So if I just put more torque then the pulley bolt should loosen?
281870
 

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if its locked you will not be able to crank both ways with a ratchet bar as hard as you can,, if locked one way only then its a false point ie caught a dip in flywheel
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
if its locked you will not be able to crank both ways with a ratchet bar as hard as you can,, if locked one way only then its a false point ie caught a dip in flywheel
Ah got it. I did stick borescope in and see this? So it really need to go into that hole. It's a pain to align - ugh. Any tips??
281872
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they are hard to get locked if dont use two equal long rods ie around 300mm each drop each one in number 1 and number 2 turn crank until both at same level with the writing at top on camshafts thats how do them its fairly easy doing this method
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
they are hard to get locked if dont use two equal long rods ie around 300mm each drop each one in number 1 and number 2 turn crank until both at same level with the writing at top on camshafts thats how do them its fairly easy doing this method
@mike1967 Thanks for the tip, I got this locked. I used 2 crossbow bolts as markers in CYL1 and CYL2, also put a bamboo skew into the hole and noted it's only 38mm deep so realized the locking tool doesn't have to go completely in but 38mm in [see pics]. I removed the crank pulley hub using E10. Now ready to remove crankshaft bolt. it's really tight, do you think I need to use the crankshaft removal tool [83300493940 BMW and MINI Crankshaft Holder Tool Genuine BMW/MINI 83.30.0.493.940 83300493940 83 30 0 493 940 83-30-0-493-940 | Pelican Parts Any other tips to loosen it? Is there a chance the locking pin could snap if I don't use the removal tool?
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i used the crankshaft locking pin to hold crankshaft while undoing the 18mm bottom bolt same when do the bolt back up again , i've done more than 300 hundred of these engine by a long way with same bottom lock pin and still shows no signs of breaking or snapping,, that is using a laser lock tool , i also have a cheap china kit i bought in the very early days that prob done 100 times and still not broken,, the cheap china tool i stopped using it after lending ot to someone who did not clean their ears out on that morning when i told them DO NOT USE TOP CAM LOCKS TO HOLD CAMSHAFT WHILE UNDOING OR DOING THE BOLTS UP, USE 27MM SPANNER ALWAYS, OR WILL BEND THEM OPEN, did find the cheap ones were a few degress out did compare them with the better laser tools kit and found could use feeler gauge to remove any float but still would only use a good lock tool for these engines
 

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My eyes aren't what they were t I don't see the stamped details pointing up on your cam shafts, you could be 180deg out there if you cannot see the cam details printed in the middle of the shafts.
 

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My eyes aren't what they were t I don't see the stamped details pointing up on your cam shafts, you could be 180deg out there if you cannot see the cam details printed in the middle of the shafts.
dont need to see the writing as the where the cam locks sit they only have one surface that is not rounded to locate to the lock tools
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
My eyes aren't what they were t I don't see the stamped details pointing up on your cam shafts, you could be 180deg out there if you cannot see the cam details printed in the middle of the shafts.
Thanks, yep the stamped writing is facing up but it's very faint on these cams.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
@mike1967 Got head off and can see the valve seat on #2 is stuck and looks like bits got shave and parts of it fused. CYL4 valves also look bent. What do I need to do clean the piston and remove the shaved metal and carbon? Going to take head to machine shop soon. Any chance piston 2 or CYL wall is damaged?
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that piston is done need to fit new piston in both the damaged bores with broken valves, so sump off re ring and hone the bores ,, they do this when the over heat or lean out when engine leans out on petrols the combustion temps go through the roof and melt things it also gets head so hot the valve seats drop out like that ,, so you need to find out why it done it , ie thermostat or water pump or fueling issues
 

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will add the last one i done like that i also found the crankshaft had been nailed as engine must of run so hot that oil thinned out and damaged the mains as well so you will need to check crankshaft at same time for sure , hopefully not cracked the head or warped it badly
 
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